I just put a new rear derailleur cable on my Habanero disc bike. I
managed to easily get it working with buried cables in the tubes. This because Habby frames have a plate that can open up to allow cable to
snake inside much easier. Smart move by the designer.
Then I go to cut the excess and not much room for extra cable. The cable
will hit the spokes unless it us cut almost back to the cable anchor
bolt. So when doing this is was not careful and cut it and it frayed all
the way back to the anchor. Of course it is already on so the bike
shifts fine and should pose no problem. However it is sloppy looking and
no way to get a end cap on the keep in all together.
Outside of twisting and twisting until you get it which is frustrating I decide to use heat shrink tubing. I put on two separate pieces and
manage to get it all bunched up. It seems to work but is there any other thing you can do? I could replace the cable but frankly is works fine
and maybe just overkill. I wish I could get some form of a crimp cap
that would fit over the tubing to make it a bit more sturdy. Don't know
any any here know?
I just put a new rear derailleur cable on my Habanero disc
bike. I managed to easily get it working with buried cables
in the tubes. This because Habby frames have a plate that
can open up to allow cable to snake inside much easier.
Smart move by the designer.
Then I go to cut the excess and not much room for extra
cable. The cable will hit the spokes unless it us cut almost
back to the cable anchor bolt. So when doing this is was not
careful and cut it and it frayed all the way back to the
anchor. Of course it is already on so the bike shifts fine
and should pose no problem. However it is sloppy looking and
no way to get a end cap on the keep in all together.
Outside of twisting and twisting until you get it which is
frustrating I decide to use heat shrink tubing. I put on two
separate pieces and manage to get it all bunched up. It
seems to work but is there any other thing you can do? I
could replace the cable but frankly is works fine and maybe
just overkill. I wish I could get some form of a crimp cap
that would fit over the tubing to make it a bit more sturdy.
Don't know any any here know?
On 11/14/2024 3:10 PM, Mark J cleary wrote:
I just put a new rear derailleur cable on my Habanero disc bike. I
managed to easily get it working with buried cables in the tubes. This
because Habby frames have a plate that can open up to allow cable to
snake inside much easier. Smart move by the designer.
Then I go to cut the excess and not much room for extra cable. The
cable will hit the spokes unless it us cut almost back to the cable
anchor bolt. So when doing this is was not careful and cut it and it
frayed all the way back to the anchor. Of course it is already on so
the bike shifts fine and should pose no problem. However it is sloppy
looking and no way to get a end cap on the keep in all together.
Outside of twisting and twisting until you get it which is frustrating
I decide to use heat shrink tubing. I put on two separate pieces and
manage to get it all bunched up. It seems to work but is there any
other thing you can do? I could replace the cable but frankly is works
fine and maybe just overkill. I wish I could get some form of a crimp
cap that would fit over the tubing to make it a bit more sturdy. Don't
know any any here know?
We cut and cap the wire, then bend it to clear the spokes. Bending the
wire before cutting causes the wire to fray, as you found.
On 11/14/2024 4:10 PM, Mark J cleary wrote:
I just put a new rear derailleur cable on my Habanero disc
bike. I managed to easily get it working with buried
cables in the tubes. This because Habby frames have a
plate that can open up to allow cable to snake inside much
easier. Smart move by the designer.
Then I go to cut the excess and not much room for extra
cable. The cable will hit the spokes unless it us cut
almost back to the cable anchor bolt. So when doing this
is was not careful and cut it and it frayed all the way
back to the anchor. Of course it is already on so the bike
shifts fine and should pose no problem. However it is
sloppy looking and no way to get a end cap on the keep in
all together.
Outside of twisting and twisting until you get it which is
frustrating I decide to use heat shrink tubing. I put on
two separate pieces and manage to get it all bunched up.
It seems to work but is there any other thing you can do?
I could replace the cable but frankly is works fine and
maybe just overkill. I wish I could get some form of a
crimp cap that would fit over the tubing to make it a bit
more sturdy. Don't know any any here know?
I've got a special cable cutter, a hand operated shear whose
each jaw has a V groove with cutting edges. This means the
cable is cut simultaneously from four directions. It's never
caused fraying.
Back before stainless steel cables, there were a few times I
soldered the strands together before cutting. That gave a
very neat finish. But AFAIK that won't work with SS cables.
To fix the problem after the fact, maybe you could have
applied cyanoacrylate ("Crazy") glue as you twisted? Or
better, apply it to the cut spot before you cut?
Overall, it seems like a very, very small aesthetic problem.
I wouldn't worry about it. What you did works.
Related: I use bar end friction shifters on most of my
bikes. When their cables break, it's normally at the
shifter; and it's happened far, far from home. Since then, I
usually leave a few inches extra cable past the cable clamp
as a sort of spare cable reservoir, and sort of tie it into
a loop, maybe an inch in diameter. If a break occurs, I can
feed the extra cable back upstream and tie the broken end
into a knot to replace the cast cable end, to get me home.
But I now usually have a spare cable with me, especially
since my cable routing requires an extra long cable.
Outside of twisting and twisting until you get it which is frustrating I decide to use heat shrink tubing. I put on two separate pieces and
manage to get it all bunched up. It seems to work but is there any other thing you can do? I could replace the cable but frankly is works fine
and maybe just overkill. I wish I could get some form of a crimp cap
that would fit over the tubing to make it a bit more sturdy. Don't know
any any here know?
On 11/14/2024 1:10 PM, Mark J cleary wrote:
<snip>
Outside of twisting and twisting until you get it which is frustrating
I decide to use heat shrink tubing. I put on two separate pieces and
manage to get it all bunched up. It seems to work but is there any
other thing you can do? I could replace the cable but frankly is works
fine and maybe just overkill. I wish I could get some form of a crimp
cap that would fit over the tubing to make it a bit more sturdy. Don't
know any any here know?
I've used heat shrink in similar situations. It works fine, as long as
you don't ever have to pull the inner wire back through the housing for
any reason.
It's very important to have a proper tool for cutting those inner wire
and not try to use wire cutters. Inner wires made of stainless steel are
very tough to cut without the proper tool.
It's also very difficult to solder stainless steel cables, you need the proper flux, the proper solder, and a torch or very hot soldering iron,
and you have to be careful not to melt the housing. Supposedly, acid
flux should be used, or use hydrochloric acid (31.45% muriatic acid).
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