I'm likely to need a wrench similar to this: >https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-TL-DH10-36mm-Dynamo-Removal/dp/B00H6P8G80 >(Just the 36 mm side) in the next week or two.Looks like a relatively accurate layout job followed by work on the
They aren't readily available, at least in the USA.
Can anybody think of a substitute that's close enough to be
filed and/or peened to get a decent fit? Max thickness has
to be no more than about 1/8 inch. It's grabbing an aluminum
part, so material strength isn't likely to be an issue. Full
circle grip is important, as the nut is thin and surface loads
high. The hub being worked on is already a little chewed up from
using a wrench that engages only two flats.
A thin 1-3/8" could be filed out, a 1-7/16" could be peened
smaller and filed to fit.
I started by looking at plumbing fitting wrenches and struck
out. Anybody got a better idea?
Thanks for reading,
bob prohaska
I'm likely to need a wrench similar to this: >https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-TL-DH10-36mm-Dynamo-Removal/dp/B00H6P8G80 >(Just the 36 mm side) in the next week or two.Looks like a relatively accurate layout job followed by work on the
They aren't readily available, at least in the USA.
Can anybody think of a substitute that's close enough to be
filed and/or peened to get a decent fit? Max thickness has
to be no more than about 1/8 inch. It's grabbing an aluminum
part, so material strength isn't likely to be an issue. Full
circle grip is important, as the nut is thin and surface loads
high. The hub being worked on is already a little chewed up from
using a wrench that engages only two flats.
A thin 1-3/8" could be filed out, a 1-7/16" could be peened
smaller and filed to fit.
I started by looking at plumbing fitting wrenches and struck
out. Anybody got a better idea?
Thanks for reading,
bob prohaska
On Mon, 25 Jul 2022 01:42:41 -0000 (UTC), bob prohaska
<bp@www.zefox.net> wrote:
I'm likely to need a wrench similar to this: >>https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-TL-DH10-36mm-Dynamo-Removal/dp/B00H6P8G80 >>(Just the 36 mm side) in the next week or two.
They aren't readily available, at least in the USA.
Can anybody think of a substitute that's close enough to be
filed and/or peened to get a decent fit? Max thickness has
to be no more than about 1/8 inch. It's grabbing an aluminum
bob prohaska
Looks like a relatively accurate layout job followed by work on the
drill press, die grinder and finish with a hand file to me.
Mild steel can be sheared with a cold chisel by clamping it in a bench vise with the cut line at the top of the jaws. Start at a small drilled hole and angle the chisel. It's easier if the metal to be removed has been roughed nearly to size by drilling rows of holes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6YCaWvKmxY
Amazon shows other 36mm box and socket wrenches here: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W154-Front-Socket/dp/B000N35JVE?th=1
How is your battery project doing?
Yes, but I still need the starting material. If I have to buy
_something_ I'd prefer it be at least close to the right size
and shape.
On Mon, 25 Jul 2022 16:33:45 -0000 (UTC)
bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net> wrote:
<snip>
Yes, but I still need the starting material. If I have to buy
_something_ I'd prefer it be at least close to the right size
and shape.
Seems you are working on a Dynamo Hub?
https://www.nashbar.com/shimano-dhur7053d-dynamo-front-disc-hub-black-centerlock-12-x-100mm-36h-edhur7053dagl/p1373397
They have a couple wrenches in stock that might be modded:
https://www.nashbar.com/shimano-tlfc32-bottom-bracket-cup-installation-tool-adaptor-y13009210/p325019
https://www.nashbar.com/pedros-bottom-bracket-wrench-shimano-8notch-flat-wrench-for-8notch-6460270/p324774
A different idea is to get a flat washer with maybe a 35mm hole. File
inside of it to fit and then weld a handle on.
I'm likely to need a wrench similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-TL-DH10-36mm-Dynamo-Removal/dp/B00H6P8G80 (Just the 36 mm side) in the next week or two.
They aren't readily available, at least in the USA.
Can anybody think of a substitute that's close enough to be
filed and/or peened to get a decent fit? Max thickness has
to be no more than about 1/8 inch. It's grabbing an aluminum
part, so material strength isn't likely to be an issue. Full
circle grip is important, as the nut is thin and surface loads
high. The hub being worked on is already a little chewed up from
using a wrench that engages only two flats.
A thin 1-3/8" could be filed out, a 1-7/16" could be peened
smaller and filed to fit.
I started by looking at plumbing fitting wrenches and struck
out. Anybody got a better idea?
Thanks for reading,
bob prohaska
On 7/24/2022 6:42 PM, bob prohaska wrote:
I'm likely to need a wrench similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-TL-DH10-36mm-Dynamo-Removal/dp/B00H6P8G80
(Just the 36 mm side) in the next week or two.
They aren't readily available, at least in the USA.
In a pinch I'd probably machine something out of 4140HT for that. In
fact I have several collet wrenches in my tool holders box where I did exactly that.
If I had to make one I think I'd lay out and scribe the 8 point pattern
on blued mild steel, drill 1/16" at the points, hog out the middle with
a hole saw and cut as close as I could see to the lines with a fine
tooth hacksaw.
I'm not sure how important it is to make something so purpose built for this. Couldn't you take a rubber strap wrench (like for oil filters) and rip it down the middle to be narrow enough for your hub nut? I've taken off the caps from Shimano'sinternally geared hubs with strap wrenches to good success.
If I had to make one I think I'd lay out and scribe the 8 point pattern on blued mild steel, drill 1/16" at the points, hog out the middle with a
hole saw and cut as close as I could see to the lines with a fine tooth hacksaw.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tbpmr6$1knd$1@gioia.aioe.org...
On 7/25/2022 4:32 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
If I had to make one I think I'd lay out and scribe the 8 point
pattern on blued mild steel, drill 1/16" at the points, hog out the
middle with a hole saw and cut as close as I could see to the lines
with a fine tooth hacksaw.
THAT sounds like to much work for me. I CNC all the stuff like that
these days.
I remember seeing some giant wrench or nut made that way shown in a high school mechanical drawing class, and I thought to myself that it looked
like a work of desperation.
Ok, I admit I have made wrenches fit an application with a torch,
grinder, and/or file before. Like I said. It was a work of desperation.
------------------
Yes, it's the sort of project given to students to teach them dexterity
and patience. I still do it because I still need those lessons, plus I
can cut shapes by hand that I can't measure or cut on machine tools, especially on parts too awkward or delicate to clamp tightly. I'm
getting good enough to make the light press fits in metal that I learned
long ago to do in wood.
However I learned the hard way NOT to fit a car fender rust patch
snugly. They need clearance to expand from welding heat.
If I had CNC I'd certainly use it, but my 1950's and 60's model shop
machine tools don't even have DROs. I spend many years designing
aerospace circuit boards and their metal enclosures on a CNC workstation.
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