• Video Versus the Hood

    From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to All on Mon Sep 5 14:36:44 2022
    I've got four autodark welding hoods, and one with a fixed #10 lens
    (might be #11 I forget). Two of them are fairly cheap and two are what
    I call 1st stage good. Not a top of the line, but first step up in
    price to a helmet some pros have said is adequate. Arguably the Harbor
    Freight Vulcan is the best or maybe its just my favorite. My son
    prefers the Lincoln Viking. That's the better one Lincoln sent me for
    free when I threw a temper tantrum about buying the most expensive
    helmet in local box hardware store and finding out it didn't have a
    replaceable battery. The Viking is pretty good.

    Anyway, none of them produce anything close to the viewing picture you
    see on video on the big welding video channels. Is the camera really correcting that much or is there really an auto lens that will produce
    that quality of viewing picture.

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  • From whit3rd@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Tue Sep 6 20:44:27 2022
    On Monday, September 5, 2022 at 2:36:49 PM UTC-7, Bob La Londe wrote:
    I've got four autodark welding hoods...

    Anyway, none of them produce anything close to the viewing picture you
    see on video on the big welding video channels. Is the camera really correcting that much or is there really an auto lens that will produce
    that quality of viewing picture.

    Cameras are cheap; it's possible to put four or five of 'em in a cluster, with different neutral density filters (or just pinholes) and choose the best
    image.

    In theory, the photochromics used for auto-sunglasses could do it, too,
    but that would have to be applied at the image plane, by the camera sensor manufacturer.

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Wed Sep 7 17:32:17 2022
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tf5q5b$5ts$1@gioia.aioe.org...

    I've got four autodark welding hoods, and one with a fixed #10 lens
    (might be #11 I forget). Two of them are fairly cheap and two are what
    I call 1st stage good. Not a top of the line, but first step up in
    price to a helmet some pros have said is adequate. Arguably the Harbor
    Freight Vulcan is the best or maybe its just my favorite. My son
    prefers the Lincoln Viking. That's the better one Lincoln sent me for
    free when I threw a temper tantrum about buying the most expensive
    helmet in local box hardware store and finding out it didn't have a
    replaceable battery. The Viking is pretty good.

    Anyway, none of them produce anything close to the viewing picture you
    see on video on the big welding video channels. Is the camera really correcting that much or is there really an auto lens that will produce
    that quality of viewing picture.
    ------------------------

    I think the answer is to flood the surroundings with bright light such as halogen work lights to reduce the contrast between the arc and surroundings.
    I can see the joint I'm trying to follow better in full sunlight. A neutral density (ND) filter on the lens protects it from spatter.

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Sep 11 19:00:25 2022
    On 9/7/2022 2:32 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tf5q5b$5ts$1@gioia.aioe.org...

    I've got four autodark welding hoods, and one with a fixed #10 lens
    (might be #11 I forget).  Two of them are fairly cheap and two are what
    I call 1st stage good.  Not a top of the line, but first step up in
    price to a helmet some pros have said is adequate.  Arguably the Harbor Freight Vulcan is the best or maybe its just my favorite.  My son
    prefers the Lincoln Viking.  That's the better one Lincoln sent me for
    free when I threw a temper tantrum about buying the most expensive
    helmet in local box hardware store and finding out it didn't have a replaceable battery.  The Viking is pretty good.

    Anyway, none of them produce anything close to the viewing picture you
    see on video on the big welding video channels.  Is the camera really correcting that much or is there really an auto lens that will produce
    that quality of viewing picture.
    ------------------------

    I think the answer is to flood the surroundings with bright light such
    as halogen work lights to reduce the contrast between the arc and surroundings. I can see the joint I'm trying to follow better in full sunlight. A neutral density (ND) filter on the lens protects it from
    spatter.



    That's generally what I do. My welding table is right in front of a
    south facing overhead door in my shop. I either raise the door or pull
    a couple halogen lamps off the shelf. Can't raise the door and get good
    welds if the wind is bad.

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