• TiALN vs AlTiN

    From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to All on Sat Sep 17 10:01:41 2022
    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of
    various hardness) and your application and setup. (carbide tools)


    --
    Bob La Londe
    Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
    real machinist

    --
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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sat Sep 17 16:38:58 2022
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tg4uho$7496$1@dont-email.me...

    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of
    various hardness) and your application and setup. (carbide tools)


    --
    Bob La Londe
    Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
    real machinist

    ----------------------------

    I'm not sure what defines a real machinist anymore. To me it's a tool or prototype maker who can solve problems with the jobs I bring him.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sat Sep 17 23:10:24 2022
    On 9/17/2022 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tg4uho$7496$1@dont-email.me...

    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of
    various hardness) and your application and setup.  (carbide tools)



    I'm not sure what defines a real machinist anymore. To me it's a tool or prototype maker who can solve problems with the jobs I bring him.

    -----

    My friend Bill who has worked as a machinist most of his life says
    I'm a real machinist . His opinion is that if I do a machining job that
    I get paid for , that makes me a real machinist . I make no claims ...
    --
    Snag
    "You can lad a dummy to facts
    but you can't make him think."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Sep 18 06:43:12 2022
    "Snag" wrote in message news:tg65mp$d4gv$1@dont-email.me...
    On 9/17/2022 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tg4uho$7496$1@dont-email.me...
    ...
    My friend Bill who has worked as a machinist most of his life says
    I'm a real machinist . His opinion is that if I do a machining job that
    I get paid for , that makes me a real machinist . I make no claims ... ---------------------

    Thanks. So Bob can solidly claim the title and I barely squeak into it.

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sun Sep 18 07:19:15 2022
    https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/ot-youre-not-a-real-machinist-until.249727/

    "You can't imagine life without machine tools and the ability to make and
    tweak everything in your world. I mean, good God! How does ANYBODY make it though life with just the crap you can buy off the shelf at the store?"

    "you keep a set of dial calipers on your desk at home"

    Yep, plus 4" pocket sized ones in the car and truck.

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sun Sep 18 07:23:05 2022
    "Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:tg6usl$gg69$1@dont-email.me...

    https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/ot-youre-not-a-real-machinist-until.249727/

    "You can't imagine life without machine tools and the ability to make and
    tweak everything in your world. I mean, good God! How does ANYBODY make it though life with just the crap you can buy off the shelf at the store?"

    "you keep a set of dial calipers on your desk at home"

    Yep, plus 4" pocket sized ones in the car and truck.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Snag on Sun Sep 18 09:48:43 2022
    On 9/17/2022 9:10 PM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tg4uho$7496$1@dont-email.me...

    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of
    various hardness) and your application and setup.  (carbide tools)



    I'm not sure what defines a real machinist anymore. To me it's a tool or prototype maker who can solve problems with the jobs I bring him.

    -----

      My friend Bill who has worked as a machinist most of his life says
    I'm a real machinist . His opinion is that if I do a machining job that
    I get paid for , that makes me a real machinist . I make no claims ...


    Michael Yellowhair (Praxis Precision) second generation machinist from
    what I understand says the same thing to me. Not as many words.

    So about AlTiN vs TiAlN...

    --
    Bob La Londe
    Professional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
    real machinist



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
    www.avg.com

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sun Sep 18 13:10:54 2022
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tg7i5b$38r$1@gioia.aioe.org...

    So about AlTiN vs TiAlN...

    ------------

    https://www.tincoat.net/coatings-offered/altin-tialn/
    "When tested head to head, AlTiN usually outperforms TiAlN."

    https://ruko.de/en/blog/a-comparison-of-the-coatings

    https://brycoat.com/surface-engineering/brycoat-pvd-coating-solutions/brycoat-aluminum-titanium-nitride-altin-or-tialn-coatings/
    For AlTiN: "Performs best in high temperature applications. Requires high temperatures to form the Al2O3 surface layer."

    https://www.canadianmetalworking.com/canadianmetalworking/article/cuttingtools/a-guide-to-titanium-based-coatings

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Sep 18 10:06:39 2022
    On 9/18/2022 4:23 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Jim Wilkins"  wrote in message news:tg6usl$gg69$1@dont-email.me...

    https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/ot-youre-not-a-real-machinist-until.249727/


    "You can't imagine life without machine tools and the ability to make and tweak everything in your world. I mean, good God! How does ANYBODY make it though life with just the crap you can buy off the shelf at the store?"

    "you keep a set of dial calipers on your desk at home"

    Yep, plus 4" pocket sized ones in the car and truck.


    In a local motor cycle shop I used to visit regularly (bolt on parts
    store) called 3 Bros Cycles the owner would often struggle with
    customers trying to determine what diameter their handle/crash/misc bars
    were for bolt on crap. It drove me crazy, so one day I went through my
    crap tools and found an old promotional caliper which I gave the owner.

    Growing up in the family businesses (one was a hardware and auto parts)
    we kept a caliper next to the catalog rack. Often we were able to match
    up a part for somebody by measuring it. In the local O'Reilly Auto
    Parts store they can't match up a lug bolt unless you can give the make
    model, year, sub year, and sub model of the CAR, "I SAID CAR YOU IDIOT"
    for your utility trailer to save their lives and you are a piece of shit
    for asking. Often I look up what I need on-line and order it even
    knowing they local store has a full line of the manufacturer's products
    because its not worth the effort of forcing them to sell it to me. I
    really would have liked to have it today, but...

    When they ask the make I should just say Trail Right and see how long
    they try to search for it in the computer. Its a 2001 Trail Right zero
    cubic inch with the delete transmission and the straight axle.

    I can't imagine going through life not knowing how to measure ANYTHING.
    I actually watched a guy take a hammer to a rivet on the end of a tape measure because it was loose. I just walked away shaking my head. I
    suppose I could have jokingly asked if he was making it into an inside
    or outside tape measure, but its just not funny if you have to explain it.

    --
    Bob La Londe
    Professional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
    real machinist


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Sep 18 10:57:17 2022
    On 9/18/2022 10:10 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tg7i5b$38r$1@gioia.aioe.org...

    So about AlTiN vs TiAlN...

    ------------

    https://www.tincoat.net/coatings-offered/altin-tialn/
    "When tested head to head, AlTiN usually outperforms TiAlN."

    https://ruko.de/en/blog/a-comparison-of-the-coatings

    https://brycoat.com/surface-engineering/brycoat-pvd-coating-solutions/brycoat-aluminum-titanium-nitride-altin-or-tialn-coatings/
    For AlTiN: "Performs best in high temperature applications. Requires
    high temperatures to form the Al2O3 surface layer."

    https://www.canadianmetalworking.com/canadianmetalworking/article/cuttingtools/a-guide-to-titanium-based-coatings

    Yeah, I was hoping for some first person. I've read a lot online. Some
    seem to claim TiAlN is better for general steel machining, but that has
    not been my experience at all. AlTiN coated carbide and go hard and
    fast has been my experience. They have a life, but they will continue
    to cut even when its gets dull and the mill starts to glow.


    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff



    --
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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Sun Sep 18 13:31:38 2022
    On 9/18/2022 11:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 9:10 PM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tg4uho$7496$1@dont-email.me...

    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of
    various hardness) and your application and setup.  (carbide tools)



    I'm not sure what defines a real machinist anymore. To me it's a tool
    or prototype maker who can solve problems with the jobs I bring him.

    -----

       My friend Bill who has worked as a machinist most of his life says
    I'm a real machinist . His opinion is that if I do a machining job
    that I get paid for , that makes me a real machinist . I make no
    claims ...


    Michael Yellowhair (Praxis Precision) second generation machinist from
    what I understand says the same thing to me.  Not as many words.

    So about AlTiN vs TiAlN...


    I can't help you there Bob . I'm still using mostly hand ground high
    speed steel on my lathe . I will be exploring the world of indexable
    tooling as soon as I finish my quick change tool post ...
    --
    Snag
    "You can lad a dummy to facts
    but you can't make him think."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Snag on Sun Sep 18 12:16:26 2022
    On 9/18/2022 11:31 AM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/18/2022 11:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 9:10 PM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tg4uho$7496$1@dont-email.me...

    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of
    various hardness) and your application and setup.  (carbide tools)



    I'm not sure what defines a real machinist anymore. To me it's a tool
    or prototype maker who can solve problems with the jobs I bring him.

    -----

       My friend Bill who has worked as a machinist most of his life says
    I'm a real machinist . His opinion is that if I do a machining job
    that I get paid for , that makes me a real machinist . I make no
    claims ...


    Michael Yellowhair (Praxis Precision) second generation machinist from
    what I understand says the same thing to me.  Not as many words.

    So about AlTiN vs TiAlN...


      I can't help you there Bob . I'm still using mostly hand ground high speed steel on my lathe . I will be exploring the world of indexable
    tooling as soon as I finish my quick change tool post ...

    I follow a few of the "hobbyist" channels on YouTube. Many of them seem
    to think the smallest diamond shape inserts are the best compromise for
    small lathes, and lathes with flexibility/backlash/power issues. I can
    see the logic behind it. The smallest diamonds have the best chance of
    getting them into the chip breaker. Many of them still aren't breaking
    chips, but IMO that's a safety and cleanup issue more than a part finish
    issue.


    Speaking of not safe... I recall a few years ago I made "bolt action"
    stainless steel pens for Christmas presents. Drilling the bodies was a nightmare until I gave up on the factory drill edge and ground my own.
    Then my best results were hard and fast deep drilling in one continues
    peck with giant knives of stainless shooting out of the hole. Not the
    safest to run or to cleanup around the machine but I drilled both halves
    of a dozen pen bodies without resharpening the drill again.



    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
    www.avg.com

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Sun Sep 18 12:22:10 2022
    On 9/18/2022 12:16 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/18/2022 11:31 AM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/18/2022 11:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 9:10 PM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tg4uho$7496$1@dont-email.me... >>>>>
    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of >>>>> various hardness) and your application and setup.  (carbide tools)



    I'm not sure what defines a real machinist anymore. To me it's a
    tool or prototype maker who can solve problems with the jobs I bring
    him.

    -----

       My friend Bill who has worked as a machinist most of his life
    says I'm a real machinist . His opinion is that if I do a machining
    job that I get paid for , that makes me a real machinist . I make no
    claims ...


    Michael Yellowhair (Praxis Precision) second generation machinist
    from what I understand says the same thing to me.  Not as many words.

    So about AlTiN vs TiAlN...


       I can't help you there Bob . I'm still using mostly hand ground
    high speed steel on my lathe . I will be exploring the world of
    indexable tooling as soon as I finish my quick change tool post ...

    I follow a few of the "hobbyist" channels on YouTube.  Many of them seem
    to think the smallest diamond shape inserts are the best compromise for
    small lathes, and lathes with flexibility/backlash/power issues.  I can
    see the logic behind it.  The smallest diamonds have the best chance of getting them into the chip breaker.  Many of them still aren't breaking chips, but IMO that's a safety and cleanup issue more than a part finish issue.


    Speaking of not safe... I recall a few years ago I made "bolt action" stainless steel pens for Christmas presents.  Drilling the bodies was a nightmare until I gave up on the factory drill edge and ground my own.
    Then my best results were hard and fast deep drilling in one continues
    peck with giant knives of stainless shooting out of the hole.  Not the safest to run or to cleanup around the machine but I drilled both halves
    of a dozen pen bodies without resharpening the drill again.

    Been thinking about making another batch. Recently somebody on Facebook
    ran across one of my old posts about them and asked about buying one. I
    told them what I would have to charge, and they said "if you make
    another batch please let me know." Actually I have been thinking about
    a combination tool. Regular Space Pen (tm) cartridge on the bottom, and carbide scribe on the top. Just flip the pen and lock the bolt in the
    other direction. I've got way to many broken 1/8 shank carbide stubs in
    my recycle carbide bin. LOL.

    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
    www.avg.com

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sun Sep 18 17:33:56 2022
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tg7m5t$l2r7$1@dont-email.me...

    Yeah, I was hoping for some first person. I've read a lot online. Some
    seem to claim TiAlN is better for general steel machining, but that has
    not been my experience at all. AlTiN coated carbide and go hard and
    fast has been my experience. They have a life, but they will continue
    to cut even when its gets dull and the mill starts to glow.

    -----------------

    I'm not blocking anyone else from posting, maybe I'm prompting them if they disagree.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Sun Sep 18 16:27:54 2022
    On 9/18/2022 2:22 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/18/2022 12:16 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/18/2022 11:31 AM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/18/2022 11:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 9:10 PM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tg4uho$7496$1@dont-email.me... >>>>>>
    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of >>>>>> various hardness) and your application and setup.  (carbide tools) >>>>>>


    I'm not sure what defines a real machinist anymore. To me it's a
    tool or prototype maker who can solve problems with the jobs I
    bring him.

    -----

       My friend Bill who has worked as a machinist most of his life
    says I'm a real machinist . His opinion is that if I do a machining
    job that I get paid for , that makes me a real machinist . I make
    no claims ...


    Michael Yellowhair (Praxis Precision) second generation machinist
    from what I understand says the same thing to me.  Not as many words. >>>>
    So about AlTiN vs TiAlN...


       I can't help you there Bob . I'm still using mostly hand ground
    high speed steel on my lathe . I will be exploring the world of
    indexable tooling as soon as I finish my quick change tool post ...

    I follow a few of the "hobbyist" channels on YouTube.  Many of them
    seem to think the smallest diamond shape inserts are the best
    compromise for small lathes, and lathes with
    flexibility/backlash/power issues.  I can see the logic behind it.
    The smallest diamonds have the best chance of getting them into the
    chip breaker.  Many of them still aren't breaking chips, but IMO
    that's a safety and cleanup issue more than a part finish issue.


    Speaking of not safe... I recall a few years ago I made "bolt action"
    stainless steel pens for Christmas presents.  Drilling the bodies was
    a nightmare until I gave up on the factory drill edge and ground my
    own. Then my best results were hard and fast deep drilling in one
    continues peck with giant knives of stainless shooting out of the
    hole.  Not the safest to run or to cleanup around the machine but I
    drilled both halves of a dozen pen bodies without resharpening the
    drill again.

    Been thinking about making another batch.  Recently somebody on Facebook
    ran across one of my old posts about them and asked about buying one.  I told them what I would have to charge, and they said "if you make
    another batch please let me know."  Actually I have been thinking about
    a combination tool.  Regular Space Pen (tm) cartridge on the bottom, and carbide scribe on the top.  Just flip the pen and lock the bolt in the
    other direction.  I've got way to many broken 1/8 shank carbide stubs in
    my recycle carbide bin.  LOL.


    Some of my best projects came from stock out of the scrap/salvage
    pile . My holes creek ball turner , micrometer boring head , and boring
    bar clamp post were all from salvaged stock .
    --
    Snag
    "You can lad a dummy to facts
    but you can't make him think."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sun Sep 18 17:58:04 2022
    "Snag" wrote in message news:tg7o6c$lk1a$1@dont-email.me...

    I can't help you there Bob . I'm still using mostly hand ground high
    speed steel on my lathe . I will be exploring the world of indexable
    tooling as soon as I finish my quick change tool post ...

    --------------------------

    Same here. I can keep HSS as sharp as I want and grind custom shapes, like concave edge and screw head rounders and the angle of the grooves in a serpentine belt pulley. Almost every job is different and one-off, so I
    don't need cutters to hold size for long.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Sun Sep 18 16:21:53 2022
    On 9/18/2022 2:16 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/18/2022 11:31 AM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/18/2022 11:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 9:10 PM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tg4uho$7496$1@dont-email.me... >>>>>
    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of >>>>> various hardness) and your application and setup.  (carbide tools)



    I'm not sure what defines a real machinist anymore. To me it's a
    tool or prototype maker who can solve problems with the jobs I bring
    him.

    -----

       My friend Bill who has worked as a machinist most of his life
    says I'm a real machinist . His opinion is that if I do a machining
    job that I get paid for , that makes me a real machinist . I make no
    claims ...


    Michael Yellowhair (Praxis Precision) second generation machinist
    from what I understand says the same thing to me.  Not as many words.

    So about AlTiN vs TiAlN...


       I can't help you there Bob . I'm still using mostly hand ground
    high speed steel on my lathe . I will be exploring the world of
    indexable tooling as soon as I finish my quick change tool post ...

    I follow a few of the "hobbyist" channels on YouTube.  Many of them seem
    to think the smallest diamond shape inserts are the best compromise for
    small lathes, and lathes with flexibility/backlash/power issues.  I can
    see the logic behind it.  The smallest diamonds have the best chance of getting them into the chip breaker.  Many of them still aren't breaking chips, but IMO that's a safety and cleanup issue more than a part finish issue.


    Speaking of not safe... I recall a few years ago I made "bolt action" stainless steel pens for Christmas presents.  Drilling the bodies was a nightmare until I gave up on the factory drill edge and ground my own.
    Then my best results were hard and fast deep drilling in one continues
    peck with giant knives of stainless shooting out of the hole.  Not the safest to run or to cleanup around the machine but I drilled both halves
    of a dozen pen bodies without resharpening the drill again.




    I remember you making those and the problems you had . The tooling I
    bought is 5/16" shank indexable . They use a triangular insert #TCMT
    090204 . Small insert , and only uses one side . I'm thinking this
    system will speed up some of the steel machining I do . Some of my
    mystery metal stock has a tendency to work harden and burn the cutter if
    I try to turn at too high a speed .
    --
    Snag
    "You can lad a dummy to facts
    but you can't make him think."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Sep 18 14:29:59 2022
    On 9/18/2022 4:23 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Jim Wilkins"  wrote in message news:tg6usl$gg69$1@dont-email.me...

    https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/ot-youre-not-a-real-machinist-until.249727/

    "You can't imagine life without machine tools and the ability to make and tweak everything in your world. I mean, good God! How does ANYBODY make it though life with just the crap you can buy off the shelf at the store?"

    "you keep a set of dial calipers on your desk at home"

    Yep, plus 4" pocket sized ones in the car and truck.

    "You love that shop more than me."

    "You don't, just plead the 5th,.... then ask them not to make you choose,.........at least two of my former GF's did, and weren't to
    chuffed with my answer. :D"

    My buddy Garrett's girlfriend, "You treat that stupid dog better than
    you do me!!!"

    Garrett, "You jump your warm cozy ass out of the boat and swim through
    freezing water to retrieve my ducks, and that might change."

    (She never got the chance to compete with his work shop. LOL.)

    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
    www.avg.com

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Snag on Sun Sep 18 14:37:46 2022
    On 9/18/2022 2:21 PM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/18/2022 2:16 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/18/2022 11:31 AM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/18/2022 11:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 9:10 PM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/17/2022 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tg4uho$7496$1@dont-email.me... >>>>>>
    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of >>>>>> various hardness) and your application and setup.  (carbide tools) >>>>>>


    I'm not sure what defines a real machinist anymore. To me it's a
    tool or prototype maker who can solve problems with the jobs I
    bring him.

    -----

       My friend Bill who has worked as a machinist most of his life
    says I'm a real machinist . His opinion is that if I do a machining
    job that I get paid for , that makes me a real machinist . I make
    no claims ...


    Michael Yellowhair (Praxis Precision) second generation machinist
    from what I understand says the same thing to me.  Not as many words. >>>>
    So about AlTiN vs TiAlN...


       I can't help you there Bob . I'm still using mostly hand ground
    high speed steel on my lathe . I will be exploring the world of
    indexable tooling as soon as I finish my quick change tool post ...

    I follow a few of the "hobbyist" channels on YouTube.  Many of them
    seem to think the smallest diamond shape inserts are the best
    compromise for small lathes, and lathes with
    flexibility/backlash/power issues.  I can see the logic behind it.
    The smallest diamonds have the best chance of getting them into the
    chip breaker.  Many of them still aren't breaking chips, but IMO
    that's a safety and cleanup issue more than a part finish issue.


    Speaking of not safe... I recall a few years ago I made "bolt action"
    stainless steel pens for Christmas presents.  Drilling the bodies was
    a nightmare until I gave up on the factory drill edge and ground my
    own. Then my best results were hard and fast deep drilling in one
    continues peck with giant knives of stainless shooting out of the
    hole.  Not the safest to run or to cleanup around the machine but I
    drilled both halves of a dozen pen bodies without resharpening the
    drill again.




      I remember you making those and the problems you had . The tooling I bought is 5/16" shank indexable . They use a triangular insert #TCMT
    090204 . Small insert , and only uses one side . I'm thinking this
    system will speed up some of the steel machining I do . Some of my
    mystery metal stock has a tendency to work harden and burn the cutter if
    I try to turn at too high a speed .

    Yeah, 5/16-8mm (not enough difference (under 0.003) to make a
    difference). That's what they use on the mini lathes. Might be
    triangle they like instead of diamond. I just enjoy watching them do a
    lot with a little.

    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff



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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Sep 18 22:48:56 2022
    On 9/18/2022 4:58 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:tg7o6c$lk1a$1@dont-email.me...

      I can't help you there Bob . I'm still using mostly hand ground high speed steel on my lathe . I will be exploring the world of indexable
    tooling as soon as I finish my quick change tool post ...

    --------------------------

    Same here. I can keep HSS as sharp as I want and grind custom shapes,
    like concave edge and screw head rounders and the angle of the grooves
    in a serpentine belt pulley. Almost every job is different and one-off,
    so I don't need cutters to hold size for long.


    I'll still be using a lot of HSS , 5 holders are 5/16" , 2 are 1/4" ,
    and the last one is dedicated for the knurling tool . I have one piece
    of the 5/16" cutter stock , and lots and lots of 1/4" . The carbide
    tooling is likely going to be reserved for tougher materials like alloy
    steels . I've got some stuff that I can't cut with HSS , like heat
    treated axle pieces . Bandsaw won't touch it , only things I can cut it
    with currently is the plasma or OA torch .
    --
    Snag
    "You can lad a dummy to facts
    but you can't make him think."

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Mon Sep 19 07:05:12 2022
    "Snag" wrote in message news:tg8ora$vp1m$1@dont-email.me...

    ...I've got some stuff that I can't cut with HSS , like heat
    treated axle pieces . Bandsaw won't touch it , only things I can cut it
    with currently is the plasma or OA torch .

    ---------------------

    Abrasive chop saw?

    Mine is good for hardened stock up to about 1" wide, and might do better if
    I'd paid more than $3 per disk. It also cuts thin tubing that could strip
    the teeth from a bandsaw, and can notch the case hardening of scrap
    hydraulic cylinder rod so I can cut it short enough to anneal in the wood stove.

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Mon Sep 19 06:49:54 2022
    On 9/19/2022 6:05 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:tg8ora$vp1m$1@dont-email.me...

    ...I've got some stuff that I can't cut with HSS , like heat
    treated axle pieces . Bandsaw won't touch it , only things I can cut it
    with currently is the plasma or OA torch .

    ---------------------

    Abrasive chop saw?

    Mine is good for hardened stock up to about 1" wide, and might do better
    if I'd paid more than $3 per disk. It also cuts thin tubing that could
    strip the teeth from a bandsaw, and can notch the case hardening of
    scrap hydraulic cylinder rod so I can cut it short enough to anneal in
    the wood stove.

    I don't have one of those ... At one time I had a pretty nice circular
    saw . I mounted an abrasive blade to cut some pieces of steel and pretty
    soon I had a piece of junk that would just spark and growl . I do have a
    few cutoff discs for the angle grinder , so when that's the only option
    I'll use it .
    --
    Snag
    "You can lad a dummy to facts
    but you can't make him think."

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Mon Sep 19 12:44:29 2022
    "Snag" wrote in message news:tg9l14$12h1g$1@dont-email.me...

    On 9/19/2022 6:05 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    Abrasive chop saw?

    I don't have one of those ... At one time I had a pretty nice circular
    saw . I mounted an abrasive blade to cut some pieces of steel and pretty
    soon I had a piece of junk that would just spark and growl . I do have a
    few cutoff discs for the angle grinder , so when that's the only option
    I'll use it .

    ------------------

    I've seen a better one than my Enco rapidly cut off a large number of mild steel (?) blocks maybe 2~4" wide, in the parking lot between the company machine shop and my lab. They are good for rebar and conduit, though they
    burr the ends. Otherwise I prefer my bandsaw or a cutoff disk in a cheap,
    light weight 7" angle grinder. I have good 4-1/2" and 7" angle grinders for serious work and $15 ones that soon overheat for the brief tasks like wire-brushing a weld or gouging out defects.

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Snag on Mon Sep 19 11:58:03 2022
    On 9/19/2022 4:49 AM, Snag wrote:
    On 9/19/2022 6:05 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:tg8ora$vp1m$1@dont-email.me...

    ...I've got some stuff that I can't cut with HSS , like heat
    treated axle pieces . Bandsaw won't touch it , only things I can cut it
    with currently is the plasma or OA torch .

    ---------------------

    Abrasive chop saw?

    Mine is good for hardened stock up to about 1" wide, and might do
    better if I'd paid more than $3 per disk. It also cuts thin tubing
    that could strip the teeth from a bandsaw, and can notch the case
    hardening of scrap hydraulic cylinder rod so I can cut it short enough
    to anneal in the wood stove.

    I don't have one of those ... At one time I had a pretty nice circular
    saw . I mounted an abrasive blade to cut some pieces of steel and pretty
    soon I had a piece of junk that would just spark and growl . I do have a
    few cutoff discs for the angle grinder , so when that's the only option
    I'll use it .


    I have a pretty nice circular saw too. A nice Skil Wormdrive. It only
    gets premium wood blades. At one time I was breaking down a bit of
    steel to make non penetrating roof mounts for satellite dishes. The
    TVRO company was paying me the same rate for the mount whether I bought
    one or made one, so I made one and got paid for installing it too. I
    used a Black & Decker circular saw with an abrasive blade for that, and
    it lasted for years. Plastic melted and slag built up, but it kept
    going. I think I paid $29.95 for that saw at K-Mart. It did finally
    die, but only after many years. I got my money's worth out of it. I do
    have a circular saw I sometimes use for cutting steel now, but it uses
    carbide steel cutting blades. I am sure they would not hold up to
    anything hard. It works great on aluminum up to a couple inches or mild
    steel up to 3/8 (so far). It was NOT $29.95.

    When cutting tube I always use the bigger horizontal, and set the
    hydraulic down feed so it doesn't fall to fast. It works great. If I
    hadn't stripped the worm gear (replaced now) on the smaller horizontal I
    might have never found out how great the 7x12s are with the hydraulic
    down feed control. I do have an abrasive chop saw, but it rarely gets
    used anymore.

    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff



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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Mon Sep 19 16:50:39 2022
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tgae3r$17f2j$1@dont-email.me...

    When cutting tube I always use the bigger horizontal, and set the
    hydraulic down feed so it doesn't fall to fast. It works great. If I
    hadn't stripped the worm gear (replaced now) on the smaller horizontal I
    might have never found out how great the 7x12s are with the hydraulic
    down feed control. I do have an abrasive chop saw, but it rarely gets
    used anymore.

    -------------------

    I learned on DoALL horizontal and vertical bandsaws, so I knew how a bandsaw was supposed to work and could tinker with a 4x6 until it did so, close
    enough for hobby use. I don't think it or the 30" 3-in-1 sheet metal machine belong in a business, they need too much attention to get and keep them
    right. Mine came second-hand from shops that had given up on them.

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Mon Sep 19 15:07:42 2022
    On 9/19/2022 1:50 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tgae3r$17f2j$1@dont-email.me...

    When cutting tube I always use the bigger horizontal, and set the
    hydraulic down feed so it doesn't fall to fast.  It works great.  If I hadn't stripped the worm gear (replaced now) on the smaller horizontal I might have never found out how great the 7x12s are with the hydraulic
    down feed control.  I do have an abrasive chop saw, but it rarely gets
    used anymore.

    -------------------

    I learned on DoALL horizontal and vertical bandsaws, so I knew how a
    bandsaw was supposed to work and could tinker with a 4x6 until it did
    so, close enough for hobby use. I don't think it or the 30" 3-in-1 sheet metal machine belong in a business, they need too much attention to get
    and keep them right. Mine came second-hand from shops that had given up
    on them.


    There are probably a lot more of those 4x6 saws in businesses than you
    might think. I used mine everyday for five years, and that was after I
    owned it for a few years just tinkering before that. I was a kid the
    first time I saw one in a business. Probably more than 40 years ago.
    My Harbor Freight 4x6 cuts a lot straighter than that old machine did.
    LOL. The big key is an undamaged blade. I've noticed new blades almost
    always cut straight. Even worn blades cut straight if the pressure
    isn't to high, and the tooth set has not been messed up.

    I probably wouldn't have bought the 7x12 except I could get it the same
    day, and it would take an unknown time to get the gear for the 4x6.
    Took a week. The one from the Grizzly 4x6 was a drop in replacement for
    the one on my Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw.

    I'd like to find an affordable vertical band saw for use in my shop.
    The one I have is a 3 phase with a built in VFD, but it has almost no
    power at low surface speed. I might try swapping the pullies to get
    more torque, but then the built in surface speed display (just reads off
    the VFD) would be wrong. As it is I almost never use it. I often choose
    to use the 7x12 for vertical work in the upright position instead.

    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff



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  • From David Billington@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Mon Sep 19 23:48:10 2022
    On 19/09/2022 23:07, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/19/2022 1:50 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tgae3r$17f2j$1@dont-email.me...

    When cutting tube I always use the bigger horizontal, and set the
    hydraulic down feed so it doesn't fall to fast.  It works great.  If I
    hadn't stripped the worm gear (replaced now) on the smaller horizontal I
    might have never found out how great the 7x12s are with the hydraulic
    down feed control.  I do have an abrasive chop saw, but it rarely gets
    used anymore.

    -------------------

    I learned on DoALL horizontal and vertical bandsaws, so I knew how a
    bandsaw was supposed to work and could tinker with a 4x6 until it did
    so, close enough for hobby use. I don't think it or the 30" 3-in-1
    sheet metal machine belong in a business, they need too much
    attention to get and keep them right. Mine came second-hand from
    shops that had given up on them.


    There are probably a lot more of those 4x6 saws in businesses than you
    might think.  I used mine everyday for five years, and that was after
    I owned it for a few years just tinkering before that. I was a kid the
    first time I saw one in a business.  Probably more than 40 years ago.
    My Harbor Freight 4x6 cuts a lot straighter than that old machine did.
    LOL.  The big key is an undamaged blade. I've noticed new blades
    almost always cut straight.  Even worn blades cut straight if the
    pressure isn't to high, and the tooth set has not been messed up.

    I probably wouldn't have bought the 7x12 except I could get it the
    same day, and it would take an unknown time to get the gear for the
    4x6. Took a week.  The one from the Grizzly 4x6 was a drop in
    replacement for the one on my Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw.

    I'd like to find an affordable vertical band saw for use in my shop.
    The one I have is a 3 phase with a built in VFD, but it has almost no
    power at low surface speed.  I might try swapping the pullies to get
    more torque, but then the built in surface speed display (just reads
    off the VFD) would be wrong. As it is I almost never use it.  I often
    choose to use the 7x12 for vertical work in the upright position instead.

    Depending on your VFD you may be able to scale the display value to suit
    your pulley change. I've done it on a flat lap for glass where I
    displayed the platter RPM rather than the motor RPM.

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Mon Sep 19 20:42:14 2022
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tgap7e$18e93$1@dont-email.me...

    I'd like to find an affordable vertical band saw for use in my shop.
    The one I have is a 3 phase with a built in VFD, but it has almost no
    power at low surface speed. I might try swapping the pullies to get
    more torque, but then the built in surface speed display (just reads off
    the VFD) would be wrong. As it is I almost never use it. I often choose
    to use the 7x12 for vertical work in the upright position instead.

    ----------------------

    Perhaps you could rig a magnet-sensor bicycle speedometer to a wheel and calibrate it to give you a useful indication of blade speed. On my motorcycle-wheel sawmill the speedometer reading is close enough to 1/100th
    of the feet per minute, 60 MPH = 5280 FPM, or 88 FPS. The 55 MPH tick mark
    is approximately the blade maker's suggested 5000 FPM.

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Mon Sep 19 19:25:18 2022
    On 9/19/2022 5:42 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tgap7e$18e93$1@dont-email.me...

    I'd like to find an affordable vertical band saw for use in my shop.
    The one I have is a 3 phase with a built in VFD, but it has almost no
    power at low surface speed.  I might try swapping the pullies to get
    more torque, but then the built in surface speed display (just reads off
    the VFD) would be wrong. As it is I almost never use it.  I often choose
    to use the 7x12 for vertical work in the upright position instead.

    ----------------------

    Perhaps you could rig a magnet-sensor bicycle speedometer to a wheel and calibrate it to give you a useful indication of blade speed. On my motorcycle-wheel sawmill the speedometer reading is close enough to
    1/100th of the feet per minute, 60 MPH = 5280 FPM, or 88 FPS. The 55 MPH
    tick mark is approximately the blade maker's suggested 5000 FPM.


    I'm sure I could figure out something.

    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff



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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to David Billington on Mon Sep 19 19:24:06 2022
    On 9/19/2022 3:48 PM, David Billington wrote:
    On 19/09/2022 23:07, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 9/19/2022 1:50 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:tgae3r$17f2j$1@dont-email.me...

    When cutting tube I always use the bigger horizontal, and set the
    hydraulic down feed so it doesn't fall to fast.  It works great.  If I >>> hadn't stripped the worm gear (replaced now) on the smaller horizontal I >>> might have never found out how great the 7x12s are with the hydraulic
    down feed control.  I do have an abrasive chop saw, but it rarely gets
    used anymore.

    -------------------

    I learned on DoALL horizontal and vertical bandsaws, so I knew how a
    bandsaw was supposed to work and could tinker with a 4x6 until it did
    so, close enough for hobby use. I don't think it or the 30" 3-in-1
    sheet metal machine belong in a business, they need too much
    attention to get and keep them right. Mine came second-hand from
    shops that had given up on them.


    There are probably a lot more of those 4x6 saws in businesses than you
    might think.  I used mine everyday for five years, and that was after
    I owned it for a few years just tinkering before that. I was a kid the
    first time I saw one in a business.  Probably more than 40 years ago.
    My Harbor Freight 4x6 cuts a lot straighter than that old machine did.
    LOL.  The big key is an undamaged blade. I've noticed new blades
    almost always cut straight.  Even worn blades cut straight if the
    pressure isn't to high, and the tooth set has not been messed up.

    I probably wouldn't have bought the 7x12 except I could get it the
    same day, and it would take an unknown time to get the gear for the
    4x6. Took a week.  The one from the Grizzly 4x6 was a drop in
    replacement for the one on my Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw.

    I'd like to find an affordable vertical band saw for use in my shop.
    The one I have is a 3 phase with a built in VFD, but it has almost no
    power at low surface speed.  I might try swapping the pullies to get
    more torque, but then the built in surface speed display (just reads
    off the VFD) would be wrong. As it is I almost never use it.  I often
    choose to use the 7x12 for vertical work in the upright position instead.

    Depending on your VFD you may be able to scale the display value to suit
    your pulley change. I've done it on a flat lap for glass where I
    displayed the platter RPM rather than the motor RPM.


    Entirely possible. I haven't even looked to see if I can get a manual
    for the VFD. I was thinking if I can cut the speed by 2:1 I could also
    just half whatever it says on the display. That basic math is within my capability. Its a low priority on my list of projects.




    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff



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  • From randy333@aol.com@21:1/5 to All on Wed Sep 21 10:54:11 2022
    On Sat, 17 Sep 2022 10:01:41 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
    wrote:

    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of
    various hardness) and your application and setup. (carbide tools)


    --
    Bob La Londe
    Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
    real machinis

    I buy what's avaible and reasonably priced. I do all short run stuff
    and don't have any long runs where I could accually compare tools or
    coatings.

    I prefer TiN it's generally cheaper and works on both steel and
    aluminum. Getting harder to find everyone likes to sell the exotic
    coatings. Most likely a higher markup on those.

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to randy333@aol.com on Wed Sep 21 10:53:11 2022
    On 9/21/2022 7:54 AM, randy333@aol.com wrote:
    On Sat, 17 Sep 2022 10:01:41 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
    wrote:

    Ok, who can tell me which coating works better for you (in steels of
    various hardness) and your application and setup. (carbide tools)


    --
    Bob La Londe
    Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
    real machinis

    I buy what's avaible and reasonably priced. I do all short run stuff
    and don't have any long runs where I could accually compare tools or coatings.

    I prefer TiN it's generally cheaper and works on both steel and
    aluminum. Getting harder to find everyone likes to sell the exotic
    coatings. Most likely a higher markup on those.



    I do a lot of high speed milling of aluminum. 5,100RPM to 24,000 RPM.
    Mostly above 19,000. Aluminum chip welds to TiN. (and all of the aluminum/alumina nitride/oxide coatings too) Diamond and ZrN are the
    only coatings that don't seem to stick to hot aluminum chips, and they
    can still stick. I found flood coolant and sharp bright carbide
    uncoated with aluminum geometry (40-45 degree helix and very sharp edge)
    gives me hours of cut time without chip welding. When I say hours I
    mean that literally. Code files of a few hundred thousand lines are
    common, and files with over a million lines of code are not all that
    uncommon in my shop.

    On the manual machines I do not always run coolant for short tasks like squaring up blanks to go on the high speed machines, but even there if I
    am doing a lot of work and heats starts to build up I have seen signs of
    chip welding. TiN is far worse than bright carbide. Even when I run
    specialty HSS cutters that are hard to find in carbide I run bright
    uncoated for aluminum.

    I'm not saying you are wrong or that your experience isn't what it is.
    I am just saying that based on my experience with the types of machining
    I due TiN is terrible in aluminum. I haven't been thrilled with it in
    steel either, but I have no patience for doing a job slower than I am
    able to do it and still meet spec. Currently I run Carbide AlTiN for
    most of my steel work, but I've read a few articles claiming TiAlN might
    be better for some types of steel work. It has not been my experience.
    That is why I asked for other people's experiences. To know when it
    might be.

    I want to finish off by saying thank you. I appreciate your feedback.
    Knowing that its possible to get okay work with a TiN coated tool in
    aluminum is not something I would have otherwise believed. Thank you.


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