I've finished the tool post , and I like it . The first thing I
noticed , like on the very first cut , it how much less "spring" there
is . After making a cut the tool doesn't leave a mark on the work when I
crank it back to the start of the cut . The lantern always left a spiral scratch . I have 8 tool holders - so far - we'll see if I need more .
--
Snag
"You can lad a dummy to facts
but you can't make him think."

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On Mon, 26 Sep 2022 20:32:25 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

I've finished the tool post , and I like it . The first thing I
noticed , like on the very first cut , it how much less "spring" there
is . After making a cut the tool doesn't leave a mark on the work when I >crank it back to the start of the cut . The lantern always left a spiral >scratch . I have 8 tool holders - so far - we'll see if I need more .

I bought the setup from Busy Bee designed for the mini lathe to useit
on my South Bend 9" similar to one from HF where the tool holders have
the male dovetail. The one I got only has one dovetail on the post
portion where the HF one has two at 90 deg. I have never found the HF
one in stock at the Fort Gratiot MI. store. Anyhow, I bought two sets
from Busy Bee and latter got two additioal holders on sale giving me
eight holders with 1/2" capacity and two @ 1 1/8" for parting tools
etc.
On the SB I used a 3/8" grade eight bolt and a 1/2" CRS riser to
mount it in place of the lantern tool post.
So far I am quite happy with the new setup ant will keep my eye out
for more holders.

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On 9/26/2022 10:55 PM, Gerry wrote:

On Mon, 26 Sep 2022 20:32:25 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

I've finished the tool post , and I like it . The first thing I
noticed , like on the very first cut , it how much less "spring" there
is . After making a cut the tool doesn't leave a mark on the work when I
crank it back to the start of the cut . The lantern always left a spiral
scratch . I have 8 tool holders - so far - we'll see if I need more .

I bought the setup from Busy Bee designed for the mini lathe to useit
on my South Bend 9" similar to one from HF where the tool holders have
the male dovetail. The one I got only has one dovetail on the post
portion where the HF one has two at 90 deg. I have never found the HF
one in stock at the Fort Gratiot MI. store. Anyhow, I bought two sets
from Busy Bee and latter got two additioal holders on sale giving me
eight holders with 1/2" capacity and two @ 1 1/8" for parting tools
etc.
On the SB I used a 3/8" grade eight bolt and a 1/2" CRS riser to
mount it in place of the lantern tool post.
So far I am quite happy with the new setup ant will keep my eye out
for more holders.

Mine was machined from recycled stock in my shop ... if I need more
tool holders I'll make them . Five of mine are milled for 5/16 tooling ,
2 for 1/4" , and one has a slot 1/2" tall by 3/8" wide for a parting
tool (that's not here yet) .
If anyone wants the plans I can email them . I got them from the
Logan Lathe email list , don't know the origin of them but it's a very
nice piston type suitable for 9-10-11 inch lathes . It has dovetails on
2 adjacent sides (it would be easy to add a 3rd) , male on the post . As
drawn it's designed for 1/2" cutters , I chose to change that to smaller
sizes .
--
Snag
"You can lead a dummy to facts
but you can't make him think."

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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"Snag" wrote in message news:tgtv42$3vriq$1@dont-email.me...

Mine was machined from recycled stock in my shop ... if I need more
tool holders I'll make them . Five of mine are milled for 5/16 tooling ,
2 for 1/4" , and one has a slot 1/2" tall by 3/8" wide for a parting
tool (that's not here yet) .
If anyone wants the plans I can email them . I got them from the
Logan Lathe email list , don't know the origin of them but it's a very
nice piston type suitable for 9-10-11 inch lathes . It has dovetails on
2 adjacent sides (it would be easy to add a 3rd) , male on the post . As
drawn it's designed for 1/2" cutters , I chose to change that to smaller
sizes .
Snag

----------------

I tend to prefer Armstrong-type bit holders over clamping the bare HSS bit
in the tool post block, because they fit into tighter places. Yesterday I
cut short thread-root-diameter lead-ins on 8-32 screws and had to work very close to the chuck.

The lead-ins aid installing wing nuts outdoors, where I don't want to drop
and lose hardware in the dirt or snow. The screws are for a generator sound-damping enclosure made from fireproof suspended ceiling tiles rimmed
with sheet metal to keep the edges from crumbling. It's too bulky and
fragile to store assembled. Today's project may be a snow- and rain-proof
roof for it, and a cut-down pallet for a base.

The screw holding fixture is a cup turned from 1/2" drill rod, with a tapped hole for the screw through the bottom. The operation is more accurate with
the cup in a collet, faster in a chuck because the cup is easier to grasp.

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On 9/27/2022 6:14 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Snag"  wrote in message news:tgtv42$3vriq$1@dont-email.me...

 Mine was machined from recycled stock in my shop ... if I need more
tool holders I'll make them . Five of mine are milled for 5/16 tooling ,
2 for 1/4" , and one has a slot 1/2" tall by 3/8" wide for a parting
tool (that's not here yet) .
  If anyone wants the plans I can email them . I got them from the
Logan Lathe email list , don't know the origin of them but it's a very
nice piston type suitable for 9-10-11 inch lathes . It has dovetails on
2 adjacent sides (it would be easy to add a 3rd) , male on the post . As drawn it's designed for 1/2" cutters , I chose to change that to smaller sizes .
Snag

----------------

I tend to prefer Armstrong-type bit holders over clamping the bare HSS
bit in the tool post block, because they fit into tighter places.
Yesterday I cut short thread-root-diameter lead-ins on 8-32 screws and
had to work very close to the chuck.

I can work right up to the chuck with the right grind ... and up to
an eighth of an inch with a 1/4" threading cutter . I don't know how
much closer you can get .

The lead-ins aid installing wing nuts outdoors, where I don't want to
drop and lose hardware in the dirt or snow. The screws are for a
generator sound-damping enclosure made from fireproof suspended ceiling
tiles rimmed with sheet metal to keep the edges from crumbling. It's too bulky and fragile to store assembled. Today's project may be a snow- and rain-proof roof for it, and a cut-down pallet for a base.

I've considered an enclosure for my generator , but it's about 50
feet from the house when in (house power) use . Not loud enough inside
that it's annoying . And I'm lazy ...

The screw holding fixture is a cup turned from 1/2" drill rod, with a
tapped hole for the screw through the bottom. The operation is more
accurate with the cup in a collet, faster in a chuck because the cup is easier to grasp.

I've used a pair or three nuts to hold a screw or bolt . How do you
keep the screw from backing out while cutting ?
--
Snag
"You can lead a dummy to facts
but you can't make him think."

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On 9/26/2022 6:32 PM, Snag wrote:

  I've finished the tool post , and I like it . The first thing I
noticed , like on the very first cut , it how much less "spring" there
is . After making a cut the tool doesn't leave a mark on the work when I crank it back to the start of the cut . The lantern always left a spiral scratch . I have 8 tool holders - so far - we'll see if I need more .

That could indicate its being pulled into the part slightly during the
cut. I notice this on heavy cuts with aggressive inserts even on the
1440. With a smaller lathe it might not need to be such a heavy cut.
They dig into the part and are pulled forward.

A heavy gouge on the return indicates its flexing away from the part
during the cut.

A very light (tenth or so) scratch on the return might be as close to
perfect as I ever get. Generally I've found I can get sub thousandth
reliably be taking two roughly equal finish passes that are still
removing a fair amount of material. Measure, cut, measure, cut. DONE.
If I am trying to chase better tolerances I'll use a different fresh
sharp tool for a final pass, but as you know light passes can be
problematic to get good finishes in some materials.

Generally I do not allow the tool to touch the work piece on the return
travel at all. Only once in a while if I cam curious about how a new tool/insert performs at a particular FPR, DOC, and RPM at that diameter.
99% of the time its cut and measure. Almost never drag except when
learning what exactly is happening so I can plan my cuts.


By adjusting everything on your lathe and replacing the compound with a
solid base you can reduce this, but probably not totally eliminate it.
I use my compound modestly often so I live with it even though swapping
the base and compound probably would not be that time consuming.

ALL machines flex. Even granite machines flex. Just not as much.



--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com

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Snag - what metal are you using? Anything special?

Hul

Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

I've finished the tool post , and I like it . The first thing I
noticed , like on the very first cut , it how much less "spring" there
is . After making a cut the tool doesn't leave a mark on the work when I crank it back to the start of the cut . The lantern always left a spiral scratch . I have 8 tool holders - so far - we'll see if I need more .
--
Snag
"You can lad a dummy to facts
but you can't make him think."

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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On 9/27/2022 4:27 PM, Hul Tytus wrote:

Snag - what metal are you using? Anything special?

Hul

Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

I've finished the tool post , and I like it . The first thing I
noticed , like on the very first cut , it how much less "spring" there
is . After making a cut the tool doesn't leave a mark on the work when I
crank it back to the start of the cut . The lantern always left a spiral
scratch . I have 8 tool holders - so far - we'll see if I need more .
--
Snag
"You can lad a dummy to facts
but you can't make him think."

Most of it is mystery metal , probably similar to 4140 . This steel
was shipping brackets and stiffener members for a CNC router table
installed at Memphis Millwork around 2007 or so . The height adjuster
buttons are from melted cartridge casings (split necks/Berdan primed)
that I cast into rod forms .
--
Snag
"You can lead a dummy to facts
but you can't make him think."

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