I think a little 2 inch or maybe 3 inch that would open to
hold upto a piece of half inch carbide or HSS would be perfect for me.
They make scroll chucks that small. I have a couple (I use them like
centers on rotating arbors), but they are scroll chucks. I have not
seen an independent jaw that small.
On Sun, 12 Mar 2023 11:06:15 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
<snip>
I think a little 2 inch or maybe 3 inch that would open to
hold upto a piece of half inch carbide or HSS would be perfect for me.
They make scroll chucks that small. I have a couple (I use them like
centers on rotating arbors), but they are scroll chucks. I have not
seen an independent jaw that small.
Like these 3 inch?
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/13534466
Out of stock just now...
https://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=6084
On 3/12/2023 11:49 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 12 Mar 2023 11:06:15 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
<snip>
I think a little 2 inch or maybe 3 inch that would open to
hold upto a piece of half inch carbide or HSS would be perfect for me.
They make scroll chucks that small. I have a couple (I use them like
centers on rotating arbors), but they are scroll chucks. I have not
seen an independent jaw that small.
Like these 3 inch?
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/13534466
Out of stock just now...
https://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=6084 >>
I swear I checked Little Machine Shop. LOL.
I've since found a number of these down to 50MM (12mm capacity). I
guess me first look was just not very good. 12mm is smaller than my
target capacity, but I can adapt. Maybe two of them. One as shipped
(more or less) and one with jaw ground to accept upto 5/8.
I think I am looking around for a "small" independent 4 jaw.
Some time back I saw Steffen Gottswinter (spelling) make a video where
he used offset drilled bushings to grind off center tool shanks. This
is handy for making things like boring bars threading tools, and inside grooving tools. You can even make a single form single flute thread
mill this way in a pinch. Basically an inside threading tool.
I certainly could do this and its pretty easy. I just need to decide
what sizes I want to make first, and how far they should be offset. For
any particular tool I think they would strongest if the offset is only
enough to make that particular tool. I have made tool and drill
bushings before. Solid and split both. I have run my solid bushings at upto 34,000 rpm (some of them, and I've got a split bushing for a drill
that I use at 5,000 all the time. I'm confident in my ability to make them. The thing is for this purpose I might have to make dozens of them eventually.
This morning I was watching Steve Summers video on setting up a 4 jaw to
use on his tool and cutter grinder to grind offset clearance diameters
like Steffen's bushings, but you just dial it in on the 4 jaw. When
your offset is ground switch it to a collet to grind in the tool's
cutting surfaces/edges.
Steve used a much larger chuck than I would have chosen. I don't think
I could fit that on my little single lip tool and cutter grinder (d-bit grinder). I think a little 2 inch or maybe 3 inch that would open to
hold upto a piece of half inch carbide or HSS would be perfect for me.
They make scroll chucks that small. I have a couple (I use them like centers on rotating arbors), but they are scroll chucks. I have not
seen an independent jaw that small.
Quality doesn't even have to be all that great. It's just for grinding
a clearance offset to allow for maximum remaining material for strength.
The important griding all comes after its swapped back to a collet.
On 3/12/2023 1:06 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:Unimat?
I think I am looking around for a "small" independent 4 jaw.
Some time back I saw Steffen Gottswinter (spelling) make a video where
he used offset drilled bushings to grind off center tool shanks. This
is handy for making things like boring bars threading tools, and inside
grooving tools. You can even make a single form single flute thread
mill this way in a pinch. Basically an inside threading tool.
I certainly could do this and its pretty easy. I just need to decide
what sizes I want to make first, and how far they should be offset. For
any particular tool I think they would strongest if the offset is only
enough to make that particular tool. I have made tool and drill
bushings before. Solid and split both. I have run my solid bushings at
upto 34,000 rpm (some of them, and I've got a split bushing for a drill
that I use at 5,000 all the time. I'm confident in my ability to make
them. The thing is for this purpose I might have to make dozens of them
eventually.
This morning I was watching Steve Summers video on setting up a 4 jaw to
use on his tool and cutter grinder to grind offset clearance diameters
like Steffen's bushings, but you just dial it in on the 4 jaw. When
your offset is ground switch it to a collet to grind in the tool's
cutting surfaces/edges.
Steve used a much larger chuck than I would have chosen. I don't think
I could fit that on my little single lip tool and cutter grinder (d-bit
grinder). I think a little 2 inch or maybe 3 inch that would open to
hold upto a piece of half inch carbide or HSS would be perfect for me.
They make scroll chucks that small. I have a couple (I use them like
centers on rotating arbors), but they are scroll chucks. I have not
seen an independent jaw that small.
Quality doesn't even have to be all that great. It's just for grinding
a clearance offset to allow for maximum remaining material for strength.
The important griding all comes after its swapped back to a collet.
Here's one on ebay for 67 bucks ... seller has a good feedback rating
too . Even comes with an MT2 stub arbor . >https://www.ebay.com/itm/224774567371
On Sun, 12 Mar 2023 21:13:04 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 3/12/2023 1:06 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:Unimat?
I think I am looking around for a "small" independent 4 jaw.
Some time back I saw Steffen Gottswinter (spelling) make a video where
he used offset drilled bushings to grind off center tool shanks. This
is handy for making things like boring bars threading tools, and inside
grooving tools. You can even make a single form single flute thread
mill this way in a pinch. Basically an inside threading tool.
I certainly could do this and its pretty easy. I just need to decide
what sizes I want to make first, and how far they should be offset. For >>> any particular tool I think they would strongest if the offset is only
enough to make that particular tool. I have made tool and drill
bushings before. Solid and split both. I have run my solid bushings at >>> upto 34,000 rpm (some of them, and I've got a split bushing for a drill
that I use at 5,000 all the time. I'm confident in my ability to make
them. The thing is for this purpose I might have to make dozens of them >>> eventually.
This morning I was watching Steve Summers video on setting up a 4 jaw to >>> use on his tool and cutter grinder to grind offset clearance diameters
like Steffen's bushings, but you just dial it in on the 4 jaw. When
your offset is ground switch it to a collet to grind in the tool's
cutting surfaces/edges.
Steve used a much larger chuck than I would have chosen. I don't think >>> I could fit that on my little single lip tool and cutter grinder (d-bit
grinder). I think a little 2 inch or maybe 3 inch that would open to >>> hold upto a piece of half inch carbide or HSS would be perfect for me.
They make scroll chucks that small. I have a couple (I use them like
centers on rotating arbors), but they are scroll chucks. I have not
seen an independent jaw that small.
Quality doesn't even have to be all that great. It's just for grinding >>> a clearance offset to allow for maximum remaining material for strength. >>> The important griding all comes after its swapped back to a collet.
Here's one on ebay for 67 bucks ... seller has a good feedback rating
too . Even comes with an MT2 stub arbor .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224774567371
On 3/12/2023 1:06 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I think I am looking around for a "small" independent 4 jaw.
Unimat?
"Snag" wrote in message news:tum5j5$3hlgf$1@dont-email.me...
...My 70+ year old 3 jaw 5" varies a bit but
it's usually around .002-.004 runout .
Snag
--------------------
5" has turned out to be a good chuck size on my 10" South Bend because
it clears the carriage and allows cutting on the headstock side of the
work.
As for the largest useful chuck, my 6-1/4" Bison 4-jaw can hold up to
~8" OD with the jaws reversed, and not quite hitting the ways.
I think I am looking around for a "small" independent 4 jaw.
Some time back I saw Steffen Gottswinter (spelling) make a video where
he used offset drilled bushings to grind off center tool shanks. This
is handy for making things like boring bars threading tools, and inside grooving tools. You can even make a single form single flute thread
mill this way in a pinch. Basically an inside threading tool.
I certainly could do this and its pretty easy. I just need to decide
what sizes I want to make first, and how far they should be offset. For
any particular tool I think they would strongest if the offset is only
enough to make that particular tool. I have made tool and drill
bushings before. Solid and split both. I have run my solid bushings at upto 34,000 rpm (some of them, and I've got a split bushing for a drill
that I use at 5,000 all the time. I'm confident in my ability to make them. The thing is for this purpose I might have to make dozens of them eventually.
This morning I was watching Steve Summers video on setting up a 4 jaw to
use on his tool and cutter grinder to grind offset clearance diameters
like Steffen's bushings, but you just dial it in on the 4 jaw. When
your offset is ground switch it to a collet to grind in the tool's
cutting surfaces/edges.
Steve used a much larger chuck than I would have chosen. I don't think
I could fit that on my little single lip tool and cutter grinder (d-bit grinder). I think a little 2 inch or maybe 3 inch that would open to
hold upto a piece of half inch carbide or HSS would be perfect for me.
They make scroll chucks that small. I have a couple (I use them like centers on rotating arbors), but they are scroll chucks. I have not
seen an independent jaw that small.
Quality doesn't even have to be all that great. It's just for grinding
a clearance offset to allow for maximum remaining material for strength.
The important griding all comes after its swapped back to a collet.
"Gerry" wrote in message
news:bn4t0itvevbkosfdup236odhk2gpfu7i7a@4ax.com...
On Sun, 12 Mar 2023 21:13:04 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 3/12/2023 1:06 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I think I am looking around for a "small" independent 4 jaw.
Unimat?
I haven't found anything my 50mm 3-jaw with an M12-1mm mount, on a Morse
#2 arbor, can do that another chuck I mentioned can't do as well or
better. Unless it has drawbar threads a Morse arbor is only secure if
it's in compression, as with a drill bit, it won't take cutting forces
in other directions.
For me 5C is the most versatile mount for a small chuck since it fits
the lathe, square and hex collet blocks, a spin index and import copies
of the Kalamazoo 5C indexer. I have two of the latter, one with the
sides milled parallel to the axis to go in the milling vise, the other upright on an angle plate.
To hold a Morse arbor or collet I'd have to insert it into a 1" OD
adapter sleeve, and that into a 5C collet. I could but haven't needed to.
I bought the 1" adapter to make a slide + rotate grinding fixture and discovered that the OD had expanded slightly around the ejection slots
after grinding.
The dead centers on my surface grinder's tool grinding table aren't swappable, for shapes they won't hold I have to use a fixture on the mag chuck. Grinding is messy and 5C collets are easier than chucks to clean afterwards.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tuo2t9$3u51f$1@dont-email.me...and the easiest to make... and the smallest profile.
Thanks everybody. This is for grinding a clearance on HSS and carbide
blank (mostly chowdered endmills converted to other tools). I will
likely use the cheapest one I find and put a straight shank on it. No
point in spending real money on anything that's going to be plasted with silicone carbide and diamond grinding grit.
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--------------------------
The 4-jaw that's cheapest and easiest to clean is a thick walled tube
with two rings of four setscrews that close together like a 4-jaw. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1136
Dog-point the screws or else they may flare and need to be cut off to
change them...
The 4-jaw that's cheapest and easiest to clean is a thick walled tube with two rings of four setscrews that close together like a 4-jaw. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1136and the easiest to make... and the smallest profile.
Dog-point the screws or else they may flare and need to be cut off to
change them...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tuo9l4$3v8gh$1@dont-email.me...
On 3/13/2023 2:53 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
The 4-jaw that's cheapest and easiest to clean is a thick walled tubeand the easiest to make... and the smallest profile.
with two rings of four setscrews that close together like a 4-jaw.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1136
Dog-point the screws or else they may flare and need to be cut off to
change them...
Nice! Simple! Elegant!
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
------------------------
Here is a different application: https://cookssaw.com/standard-complete-retrofit/
I made one like the LMS product, without the spindle mounting threads,
just a slip fit. The screws bearing on thin whippy rod stock keep it in place.
For the smaller ID of the collet closer tube a cheap Multi-craft 1/2"
drill chuck with the nose turned down to fit into the tube works well.
At the low speed of my leather-belt lathe 1/2" and larger rod doesn't
whip or need restraint. I pressed pins into the key holes for handles
and turned down the nose up to them, and removed the mounting end of the chuck body to give 1/2" clearance straight through. https://www.instructables.com/Rebuilding-Keyed-Drill-Chucks/
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tuo9l4$3v8gh$1@dont-email.me...
On 3/13/2023 2:53 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
The 4-jaw that's cheapest and easiest to clean is a thick walled tubeand the easiest to make... and the smallest profile.
with two rings of four setscrews that close together like a 4-jaw.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1136
Dog-point the screws or else they may flare and need to be cut off to
change them...
Nice! Simple! Elegant!
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tuq9ea$e07n$1@dont-email.me...
On 3/14/2023 3:49 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tuo9l4$3v8gh$1@dont-email.me...
On 3/13/2023 2:53 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
The 4-jaw that's cheapest and easiest to clean is a thick walled tubeand the easiest to make... and the smallest profile.
with two rings of four setscrews that close together like a 4-jaw.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1136
Dog-point the screws or else they may flare and need to be cut off to
change them...
Nice! Simple! Elegant!
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
After some thought I decided I probably will not go with a spider
inspired chuck for this. While sloppy is "okay" I would be concerned
about how straight it would hold the recycled end mill or tool blank
under grinding pressure. A spider is normally used to stabilize a long
work piece and center the wippy end of a long work piece that is held securely at the business end in some other type of chuck or collet.
Still thinking about it. I have been known to free hand hold a tool up against the wheel on the D-bit grinder when necessary.
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist
------------------
The plus is quick and simple, the negative is difficult to adjust and
high maintenance, as the rotating high pressure line contact with the
tool will expand the ends of the screws. I thought it might be useful to experiment with, grind angled tapers, or to hold the hot shank while
free hand grinding it, though a spare thread-mount drill chuck on a bolt works for that.
How would a 4-jaw mount on your tool grinder?
-BIG- snow storm here after a very mild winter.
How would a 4-jaw mount on your tool grinder?
-BIG- snow storm here after a very mild winter.
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