Actually several things it might still be per this manual page:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/502865/Ingersoll-Rand-Ts4l5.html?page=12#manual
In case your warrant doesn't take care of it...
Breaker is not tripped. Pressure switch is working. Good voltage
inside the motor cover. Thermal is not tripped. Caps not blown, and
they do their slow charge thing when I slap a continuity tester on them.
I don't know where my cap tester meter is, but I'm fairly confident
the caps are okay. The motor is just dead.
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 12:11:27 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
<snip>
Breaker is not tripped. Pressure switch is working. Good voltage
inside the motor cover. Thermal is not tripped. Caps not blown, and
they do their slow charge thing when I slap a continuity tester on them.
I don't know where my cap tester meter is, but I'm fairly confident
the caps are okay. The motor is just dead.
Maybe motor starter switch. When it fell back to the starter winding
the contact didn't make. Had that happen on my 2hp 120vac once. Took it >apart... think a sharp rap or two on the end would have gotten it going
again though...
In the mean time I guess I'll have to go grab my 29 year old Campbell Hausfeld roll around out of the garage to run the shop air. I don't
think it will carry the whole shop, but I can probably use one or two machines at a time with it.
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 15:55:37 -0400
Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid> wrote:
Actually several things it might still be per this manual page:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/502865/Ingersoll-Rand-Ts4l5.html?page=12#manual
In case your warrant doesn't take care of it...
A better copy, maybe newer manual here:
https://www-chainsawjournal-com.webpkgcache.com/doc/-/s/www.chainsawjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/manual-Ingersoll-Rand-TS4N5-.pdf
Breaker is not tripped. Pressure switch is working. Good voltage
inside the motor cover. Thermal is not tripped. Caps not blown, and
they do their slow charge thing when I slap a continuity tester on them.
I don't know where my cap tester meter is, but I'm fairly confident
the caps are okay. The motor is just dead.
The start assembly on my 50 year old Maytag washer sometimes hangs open, but >the stalled run winding current is around 40A and would trip a breaker if I >didn't kick the motor to shake it free. I split the power cord for an
Amprobe that shows the problem immediately.
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 19:27:20 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
<snip>
The start assembly on my 50 year old Maytag washer sometimes hangs open, but >> the stalled run winding current is around 40A and would trip a breaker if I >> didn't kick the motor to shake it free. I split the power cord for an
Amprobe that shows the problem immediately.
It could easy be I don't remember this right or two different episodes happened. I had a similar problem as you describe too. I do remember
checking a lot of stuff like Bob has done. One final thing I did was
while the motor was opened up I pulled a circuit board loose to peek at
the opposite side. It worked okay after that. A contact had been
exposed on the back side and I burnished that to be sure it was okay as
long as I had it opened up.
This was maybe 10 years ago, memory isn't what it used to be ;-)
"Aside from the obvious oversights such as a disconnected power cord or
a deactivated power switch, a compressor will typically fail to start
when it lacks sufficient air pressure. If the cut-in pressure is not proportional to the amount of air pressure stored in the tank, the
compressor will often fail to start. Check the cut-in setting on the
pressure switch and adjust the level accordingly."
On 5/1/2023 10:22 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Aside from the obvious oversights such as a disconnected power cord
or a deactivated power switch, a compressor will typically fail to
start when it lacks sufficient air pressure. If the cut-in pressure is
not proportional to the amount of air pressure stored in the tank, the
compressor will often fail to start. Check the cut-in setting on the
pressure switch and adjust the level accordingly."
When the connection cover of the motor is open and leads of a meter are connected across the incoming line power leads (L1/L2 NOT L1/N) causes
the meter to display the correct and same line voltage as reading across
the bus bars in the breaker panel one should assume that neither a
failure of the pressure switch or a disconnected power cord is likely to
be the issue.
If there is a centripetal (or centrifugal if you believe centripetal is
not a real word) switch that is failing it may be start-able by spin
starting or by beating on the switch, cleaning its contacts, etc, but
when there is zero observable reaction (heat/smell/sound) its clear that whatever the issue it is "within" the motor. A spin start or beating on
the switch may cause it to operate for a single cycle, but it does not resolve the issue in a real manner.
At this point there is a 2 year extended warranty which should be in
effect, and therefor the issue should be resolved by the warrantor.
(Maybe not a real word). At this point opening the motor further may
cause the warranty company to deny a claim. ie: Breaking the paint on
the motor case screws. Cap covers and power connection panel did not require breaking any paint to open.
I will probably purchase a new better quality motor regardless of the resolution offered by the warrantor. I may or may not dig into the
existing motor to determine if it has "aluminum" windings, bad start
switch, or other cause.
Ultimately though it boils down to this. IR seems to have whored out
their name and sold out their customers with what used to be a quality
mid range compressor. Multiple reported instances of motor failures
upto and including flames shooting out of them allegedly. Many failures withing warranty, claims made that the "newer" motors (mine is newer
than the report) are better and then subsequent failures seems to back
this up.
Honestly if the price of a new Lowes Kobalt was the same as it was
fiveish years ago when I bought my last one I'd replace this Ingersol
Rand with another Kobalt. It hasn't quite doubled in five years, but
its close. The 3.7 HP 60 gallon was 499 when I bought mine, but its
jumped to 899 today. Sadly I made the mistake of repurposing the tank instead of putting a new motor on it and keeping it as a spare. My mistake. I made the egregious error of thinking a fine old name like Ingersol Rand would last atleast as long as a low bid contract box store compressor.
If there is a centripetal (or centrifugal if you believe centripetal is
not a real word) switch that is failing it may be start-able by spin >starting or by beating on the switch, cleaning its contacts, etc, but
when there is zero observable reaction (heat/smell/sound) its clear that >whatever the issue it is "within" the motor. A spin start or beating on
the switch may cause it to operate for a single cycle, but it does not >resolve the issue in a real manner.
On Mon, 1 May 2023 10:52:25 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
<snip>
If there is a centripetal (or centrifugal if you believe centripetal is
not a real word) switch that is failing it may be start-able by spin
starting or by beating on the switch, cleaning its contacts, etc, but
when there is zero observable reaction (heat/smell/sound) its clear that
whatever the issue it is "within" the motor. A spin start or beating on
the switch may cause it to operate for a single cycle, but it does not
resolve the issue in a real manner.
Found some pictures I took while I had my motor apart in 2012:
https://i.postimg.cc/rwWcfMP1/Dayton-2hp.jpg
Just an FYI, shows a lot of possible connection problems you can only
get to by opening it up farther...
I searched on the part number for your motor earlier. They sell for
somewhere between $1400 to $2400 new 😲
Hope you get some satisfaction with a warranty claim.
"Aside from the obvious oversights such as a disconnected power cord or a deactivated power switch, a compressor will typically fail to start when
it lacks sufficient air pressure. If the cut-in pressure is not
proportional to the amount of air pressure stored in the tank, the
compressor will often fail to start. Check the cut-in setting on the
pressure switch and adjust the level accordingly."
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u2ou8u$9p9h$1@dont-email.me...
On 5/1/2023 10:22 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Aside from the obvious oversights such as a disconnected power cord
or a deactivated power switch, a compressor will typically fail to
start when it lacks sufficient air pressure. If the cut-in pressure is
not proportional to the amount of air pressure stored in the tank, the
compressor will often fail to start. Check the cut-in setting on the
pressure switch and adjust the level accordingly."
---------------------------
Read the quote carefully.
Can you easily isolate the motor and check for winding continuity?
Recently I've fixed two electrical problems with the wire's end
termination breaking off, which is repairable. The HF 240V spot welder
had aluminum wire which I spliced to copper with a Eurostyle terminal
block and "monkey snot".
This winter a storm brought down my TV antenna, which has been up for at least five years. I had replaced the rivets with aluminum screws and
coated the cleaned connections with GB Ox Gard and they still measure 20 milliOhms or less.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u2ou8u$9p9h$1@dont-email.me...
On 5/1/2023 10:22 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Aside from the obvious oversights such as a disconnected power cord or a
deactivated power switch, a compressor will typically fail to start when
it lacks sufficient air pressure. If the cut-in pressure is not
proportional to the amount of air pressure stored in the tank, the
compressor will often fail to start. Check the cut-in setting on the
pressure switch and adjust the level accordingly."
Read the quote carefully.
Can you easily isolate the motor and check for winding continuity?
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u2pfmp$c6ef$1@dont-email.me...
On 5/1/2023 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u2ou8u$9p9h$1@dont-email.me...
On 5/1/2023 10:22 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Aside from the obvious oversights such as a disconnected power cord
or a deactivated power switch, a compressor will typically fail to
start when it lacks sufficient air pressure. If the cut-in pressure
is not proportional to the amount of air pressure stored in the tank,
the compressor will often fail to start. Check the cut-in setting on
the pressure switch and adjust the level accordingly."
Read the quote carefully.
Can you easily isolate the motor and check for winding continuity?
In this case the tank pressure was zero (well atmospheric).
Bob La Londe
-------------------
The quote states:
"a compressor will typically fail to start when it lacks sufficient air pressure."
That implies they need to be pre-primed with some compressed air from elsewhere. The three I've assembled from separate components certainly didn't, they start just fine from empty. The only pressure related
no-start problem I've seen is when the Load Genie unloader failed to depressurize the compressor head soon enough and the 1/2HP motor didn't
have enough starting torque when run off a 3KW generator. The fix was to fabricate a keep-open cam lever that replaced the pull ring on the over-pressure relief, and open it before starting.
I shouldn't need compressed air during a power outage, except that the
gennys the neighbors bring over to be fixed may have clogged carbs and
flat tires. My generators are intentionally too small to run their loads.
On 5/1/2023 4:41 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u2pfmp$c6ef$1@dont-email.me...
On 5/1/2023 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u2ou8u$9p9h$1@dont-email.me...
On 5/1/2023 10:22 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Aside from the obvious oversights such as a disconnected power cord
or a deactivated power switch, a compressor will typically fail to
start when it lacks sufficient air pressure. If the cut-in pressure
is not proportional to the amount of air pressure stored in the
tank, the compressor will often fail to start. Check the cut-in
setting on the pressure switch and adjust the level accordingly."
Read the quote carefully.
Can you easily isolate the motor and check for winding continuity?
In this case the tank pressure was zero (well atmospheric).
Bob La Londe
-------------------
The quote states:
"a compressor will typically fail to start when it lacks sufficient
air pressure."
That implies they need to be pre-primed with some compressed air from
elsewhere. The three I've assembled from separate components certainly
didn't, they start just fine from empty. The only pressure related
no-start problem I've seen is when the Load Genie unloader failed to
depressurize the compressor head soon enough and the 1/2HP motor
didn't have enough starting torque when run off a 3KW generator. The
fix was to fabricate a keep-open cam lever that replaced the pull ring
on the over-pressure relief, and open it before starting.
I shouldn't need compressed air during a power outage, except that the
gennys the neighbors bring over to be fixed may have clogged carbs and
flat tires. My generators are intentionally too small to run their loads.
Most reciprocating compressors are simple reed valve naturally aspirated pumps that absolutely never need to be "primed" and an unloader if
anything when working properly "deprimes" them. If an unloader does
fail my experience is they tend to fail in the open condition. Even if
they failed in the closed condtion the motor would not do "nothing". It might groan, whine, get hot and maybe trip the thermal or more likely
the breaker. It wouldn't do nothing at all. I have seen unloaders
fail, but long term the check valve in the tank will always fail eventually. Again it doesn't make the motor do nothing. It just makes
it cycle a LOT more often.
I'm not sure why this went off into the weeds like this, unless you are grining through your whiskey glass and seeing how far you can bait me.
LOL. Terry? Did you put him up to this. LOL.
In any case I am going to:
a) Give the warranty company a chance to fix this.
b) Order a whole nuther motor shortly anyway so I either have a spare
on the shelf or have it fixed in a couple days either way. I do have a question regarding that, but I'll ask it in a new topic.
On 5/1/2023 4:41 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u2pfmp$c6ef$1@dont-email.me...
On 5/1/2023 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u2ou8u$9p9h$1@dont-email.me...
On 5/1/2023 10:22 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Aside from the obvious oversights such as a disconnected power cord
or a deactivated power switch, a compressor will typically fail to
start when it lacks sufficient air pressure. If the cut-in pressure
is not proportional to the amount of air pressure stored in the
tank, the compressor will often fail to start. Check the cut-in
setting on the pressure switch and adjust the level accordingly."
Read the quote carefully.
Can you easily isolate the motor and check for winding continuity?
In this case the tank pressure was zero (well atmospheric).
Bob La Londe
-------------------
The quote states:
"a compressor will typically fail to start when it lacks sufficient
air pressure."
That implies they need to be pre-primed with some compressed air from
elsewhere. The three I've assembled from separate components certainly
didn't, they start just fine from empty. The only pressure related
no-start problem I've seen is when the Load Genie unloader failed to
depressurize the compressor head soon enough and the 1/2HP motor
didn't have enough starting torque when run off a 3KW generator. The
fix was to fabricate a keep-open cam lever that replaced the pull ring
on the over-pressure relief, and open it before starting.
I shouldn't need compressed air during a power outage, except that the
gennys the neighbors bring over to be fixed may have clogged carbs and
flat tires. My generators are intentionally too small to run their loads.
Most reciprocating compressors are simple reed valve naturally aspirated pumps that absolutely never need to be "primed" and an unloader if
anything when working properly "deprimes" them. If an unloader does
fail my experience is they tend to fail in the open condition. Even if
they failed in the closed condtion the motor would not do "nothing". It might groan, whine, get hot and maybe trip the thermal or more likely
the breaker. It wouldn't do nothing at all. I have seen unloaders
fail, but long term the check valve in the tank will always fail eventually. Again it doesn't make the motor do nothing. It just makes
it cycle a LOT more often.
I'm not sure why this went off into the weeds like this, unless you are grining through your whiskey glass and seeing how far you can bait me.
LOL. Terry? Did you put him up to this. LOL.
In any case I am going to:
a) Give the warranty company a chance to fix this.
b) Order a whole nuther motor shortly anyway so I either have a spare
on the shelf or have it fixed in a couple days either way. I do have a question regarding that, but I'll ask it in a new topic.
On 5/1/2023 6:40 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 5/1/2023 4:41 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u2pfmp$c6ef$1@dont-email.me...
On 5/1/2023 3:38 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u2ou8u$9p9h$1@dont-email.me...
On 5/1/2023 10:22 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Aside from the obvious oversights such as a disconnected power
cord or a deactivated power switch, a compressor will typically
fail to start when it lacks sufficient air pressure. If the cut-in
pressure is not proportional to the amount of air pressure stored
in the tank, the compressor will often fail to start. Check the
cut-in setting on the pressure switch and adjust the level
accordingly."
Read the quote carefully.
Can you easily isolate the motor and check for winding continuity?
In this case the tank pressure was zero (well atmospheric).
Bob La Londe
-------------------
The quote states:
"a compressor will typically fail to start when it lacks sufficient
air pressure."
That implies they need to be pre-primed with some compressed air from
elsewhere. The three I've assembled from separate components
certainly didn't, they start just fine from empty. The only pressure
related no-start problem I've seen is when the Load Genie unloader
failed to depressurize the compressor head soon enough and the 1/2HP
motor didn't have enough starting torque when run off a 3KW
generator. The fix was to fabricate a keep-open cam lever that
replaced the pull ring on the over-pressure relief, and open it
before starting.
I shouldn't need compressed air during a power outage, except that
the gennys the neighbors bring over to be fixed may have clogged
carbs and flat tires. My generators are intentionally too small to
run their loads.
Most reciprocating compressors are simple reed valve naturally
aspirated pumps that absolutely never need to be "primed" and an
unloader if anything when working properly "deprimes" them. If an
unloader does fail my experience is they tend to fail in the open
condition. Even if they failed in the closed condtion the motor would
not do "nothing". It might groan, whine, get hot and maybe trip the
thermal or more likely the breaker. It wouldn't do nothing at all. I
have seen unloaders fail, but long term the check valve in the tank
will always fail eventually. Again it doesn't make the motor do
nothing. It just makes it cycle a LOT more often.
I'm not sure why this went off into the weeds like this, unless you
are grining through your whiskey glass and seeing how far you can bait
me. LOL. Terry? Did you put him up to this. LOL.
In any case I am going to:
a) Give the warranty company a chance to fix this.
b) Order a whole nuther motor shortly anyway so I either have a spare
on the shelf or have it fixed in a couple days either way. I do have
a question regarding that, but I'll ask it in a new topic.
US MOTORS made in Mexico. I just assumed it was an Indian or Chinese
motor.
"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:u2p290$a2jv$1@dont-email.me...
https://i.postimg.cc/rwWcfMP1/Dayton-2hp.jpg
-------------------------
How do you like PostImage?
I wanted to see if anyone else would respond to that statement on a >compressor dealer's web page the way I did.
I wanted to see if anyone else would respond to that statement on a >compressor dealer's web page the way I did.
I believe that was the intent, except for
"a compressor will typically fail to start when it lacks sufficient air >pressure"
Perhaps no one proof-read what the front office help composed and posted?
On the Internet small technical errors from authoritative sources tend to >propagate widely. I don't trust my own knowledge all that far so I bring >them up for comment.
I'm inherently like that too. I've studied enough foreign languages to have >grammatical correctness drummed into my brain, and I proof-read and edit my >own postings until they blur before hitting Send.
"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:u2rs56$rr1k$2@dont-email.me...I used to see some very odd responces when I posed a question to a
I don't "get" poetry other than something like Ogden Nash. A bit of
rhyme and dash of humor with it. I suspect that poetry and grammer >enthusiasts view wordplay much as I appreciate a good mechanical
mechanism that makes no sense to them ;-)
Leon Fisk
-----------------
I've tried to pick up some "culture" but not that much stuck. I like
"Carmen" for the lively music and Western-type story, its overture plays >after the national anthems at the end of Formula 1 races. I was roped into >tech work in film and theatre and enjoy a good musical.
Mensa mixed the Boston literati with scientists and engineers, usually >successfully. Yes, the puns flew thickly. There was relatively little >drinking at parties because they all were too busy talking. Generally I
could keep up with everything, even Baroque composers, but if the topic >drifted too far off a couple of us amateur historians would start discussing >the battles on the Russian Front. High tech was also usually off the table >although Byte's publisher Wayne Green was a member, as was Richard Lederer, >the author of Get Thee to a Punnery.
The captain of the state high school quiz show championship team came to a >Trivial Pursuit night and left with his jaw hanging down because we blew him >away so thoroughly.
"Gerry" wrote in message
news:o2l35id94k4cdk9mi3lfhsn6u4qedj18lk@4ax.com...
I used to see some very odd responces when I posed a question to a
foriegn born designer who would translate my querry into his/her birth language; come up with a response and translate that into english. I discussed this with a foriegn born freind one time and he agreed that
he sometimes did this even after working in English for over twenty
years even though he had made a cosious effort to eliminate the
process after about eight years
--------------------
English is largely a forced mix of Saxon German and Norman French, which
is why it has so many synonyms with slightly different meanings, one
from each. They make it more expressive if you know them, confusing if
you don't. French and English translate word-for-word awkwardly but relatively understandably while German may have to be restructured to be comprehensible, word-for-word translations may not make sense. I'm
slowly learning to understand the patterns of Chinglish.
My vocabulary is insufficient to think seriously in either of them.
I have this in both languages and the very natural sounding English
version shifts ideas into different sentences, it was translated by paragraph. https://www.biblio.com/book/luftwaffe-war-diaries-angriffshohe-4000-cajus/d/1452648050
Looking at how the Bible has been translated from Hebrew/Greek to Latin
to English, it's easy to see why versions can differ. Even the Roman-era originals that survived don't match each other. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_uncial_codices
Dancer Carrie Ann Inaba who is part Japanese but can't read it got a
tattoo that was intended to mean Courageous Love. It actually translates
to Rough Sex.
Dancer Carrie Ann Inaba who is part Japanese but can't read it got a
tattoo that was intended to mean Courageous Love. It actually translates
to Rough Sex.
On 4/30/2023 12:11 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
In the mean time I guess I'll have to go grab my 29 year old Campbell
Hausfeld roll around out of the garage to run the shop air. I don't
think it will carry the whole shop, but I can probably use one or two
machines at a time with it.
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA...
Got it about 2/3 of the over to the shop, and a wheel fell off.
I guess 29 years in the Arizona heat is a bit much for those plastic
wheels.
On 4/30/2023 2:49 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 4/30/2023 12:11 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
In the mean time I guess I'll have to go grab my 29 year old Campbell
Hausfeld roll around out of the garage to run the shop air. I don't
think it will carry the whole shop, but I can probably use one or two
machines at a time with it.
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA...
Got it about 2/3 of the over to the shop, and a wheel fell off.
I guess 29 years in the Arizona heat is a bit much for those plastic
wheels.
UPS is almost back to their normal level of incompetence. USPS has
picked a "new normal" that while a lower quality of service than it once
was is consistent. Sadly Fed-Ex hasn't changed a bit.
Friday 5/5/2023 by end of day
estimated between 12:30 pm - 4:30 pm
Initially expected: Wednesday, 5/3/2023
The new motor I bought independently is stuck in Chino Ca. The same
place that has managed to break multiple other heavy packages. I
honestly think their are guys there who espouse an active hatred of
unloading heavy packages to they just push them out of the truck onto
the concrete below. They say it will be here Friday, but I won't hold
my breath. When it gets delayed in Chino they often do nothing until I
can beg, plead, and if necessary bully the shipper into filing a claim.
Now I am debating working or going fishing.
Now I am debating working or going fishing.
"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:u33rrs$2f592$1@dont-email.me...
On Fri, 5 May 2023 14:07:23 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
<snip>
Now I am debating working or going fishing.
Cool! Hard to argue about whether it was the motor or not too👍
Enough STRESS, go fishing ;-)
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
----------------------
Agreed, it's time to de-compress.
"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:u33rrs$2f592$1@dont-email.me...Besides, it might rain tomorrow!
On Fri, 5 May 2023 14:07:23 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
<snip>
Now I am debating working or going fishing.
Cool! Hard to argue about whether it was the motor or not too?
Enough STRESS, go fishing ;-)
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
----------------------
Agreed, it's time to de-compress.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u343cm$2hemk$1@dont-email.me...
You guys are right. I should have gone fishing.
----------------------
I spent much of yesterday fighting a frozen 50-year-old toilet shutoff
valve. After I managed to disassemble, clean, grease and reassemble it,
and replace the tank fill valve, I took a break long enough to forget everything and then went back to test it, and could see the remaining problems with fresh eyes.
As a theatre set carpenter I was taught to periodically go out to the
seats to view scenery I'd built as though I was seeing it for the first
time, to catch anything out-of-place that I'd become accustomed to
(before the director mentioned it).
You guys are right. I should have gone fishing.
Just barely over a year ago I bought a 5HP Ingersol Rand compressor for
my shop to replace the 3.7HP Lowes Kobalt compressor that had supplied
the shop's air for just over 4 years previously.
I walked in the shop this morning with a plan to knock out a few jobs
and catch up a little bit. I'm modifying some work pallets to mount in vises on the table rather than have to remove the vises to mount them to
the table. I got lucky and figured out a way to block them up in the
vises on the manual mill in the back, and then proceeded to blow the
chips off the vise surfaces.
NO AIR. I had not turned the compressor off last night as I normally
do, so I was rather surprised.
Breaker is not tripped. Pressure switch is working. Good voltage
inside the motor cover. Thermal is not tripped. Caps not blown, and
they do their slow charge thing when I slap a continuity tester on them.
I don't know where my cap tester meter is, but I'm fairly confident
the caps are okay. The motor is just dead.
Original IR warranty is only 1 year, but I bought a 2 year extended warranty. Hopefully it doesn't turn out to be one of those warranties
that are the reason I don't usually buy extended warranties.
In the mean time I guess I'll have to go grab my 29 year old Campbell Hausfeld roll around out of the garage to run the shop air. I don't
think it will carry the whole shop, but I can probably use one or two machines at a time with it.
| Sysop: | Keyop |
|---|---|
| Location: | Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK |
| Users: | 442 |
| Nodes: | 16 (2 / 14) |
| Uptime: | 44:45:24 |
| Calls: | 9,183 |
| Calls today: | 7 |
| Files: | 13,474 |
| Messages: | 6,050,384 |
