On 5/15/2023 10:55 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
Working on cars doesn't get any easier as we age - - -
When I bought this old Ranger 11 years ago with 307000Km on it I paid
to have the clutch replaced - $300 parts and $600 labor. (quote now is
$900 labor plus almost $600 for parts and supplies!!!)
It never shifted right after that - the clutch was always dragging
because the clown didn't lube the spline. I fixed that last year when
I had the engine out to fix the oil leak and I KNEW I should have just
replaced the clutch while I was at it. Started slipping a few months
ago -I put off replacing it 'till I got back from my 6 week holiday
(New Zealand, Australia, New Caledonia, American Samoa, Fiji and
Hawaii ) - took the plane off the hoist at the hangar andpulled the
tranny on Saturday - put new clutch, slave cyl, pilot bearing and rear
main seal in today - just have to bleed the clutch and install the
shifter and console tomorrow.
10 hours so far - but 3 weeks shy of 71 I am NOT doing it again - - -
Found out not onlyu did the "hired gun" not lube the spline last
time, he installed the pilot bearing backwards too - - -
I'm into it for almost $400 not counting the pain relievers!!!!!!
Expensive shops that don't do the work properly are the reason I do
all my own work . The sole exception is automatic transmissions . Those
I pull and take to the shop . I'm just a few months older than you , I
hear you about sometimes living on (OTC) pain killers .
I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
, pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
On Tue, 16 May 2023 06:46:22 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 5/15/2023 10:55 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
Working on cars doesn't get any easier as we age - - -
When I bought this old Ranger 11 years ago with 307000Km on it I paid
to have the clutch replaced - $300 parts and $600 labor. (quote now is
$900 labor plus almost $600 for parts and supplies!!!)
It never shifted right after that - the clutch was always dragging
because the clown didn't lube the spline. I fixed that last year when
I had the engine out to fix the oil leak and I KNEW I should have just
replaced the clutch while I was at it. Started slipping a few months
ago -I put off replacing it 'till I got back from my 6 week holiday
(New Zealand, Australia, New Caledonia, American Samoa, Fiji and
Hawaii ) - took the plane off the hoist at the hangar andpulled the
tranny on Saturday - put new clutch, slave cyl, pilot bearing and rear
main seal in today - just have to bleed the clutch and install the
shifter and console tomorrow.
10 hours so far - but 3 weeks shy of 71 I am NOT doing it again - - -
Found out not onlyu did the "hired gun" not lube the spline last
time, he installed the pilot bearing backwards too - - -
I'm into it for almost $400 not counting the pain relievers!!!!!!
Expensive shops that don't do the work properly are the reason I do
all my own work . The sole exception is automatic transmissions . Those
I pull and take to the shop . I'm just a few months older than you , I
hear you about sometimes living on (OTC) pain killers .
Bleeding the clutch on the ranger is a TERRIBLE job. Finally figured
out a simple way to do it - should work on any hydraulic unit. I just
got a spare cap for the reservoir and drilled it for a 1/8" hose barb
fitting to connect the mity-vac and pulled 20 inches of vacuum and let
it sit for 10 minutes. Released the vacuum and repeated then let it
sit half an hour or so under vacuum and VOILA!!! perfect pedal, and
full release
Working on cars doesn't get any easier as we age - - -
When I bought this old Ranger 11 years ago with 307000Km on it I paid
to have the clutch replaced - $300 parts and $600 labor. (quote now is
$900 labor plus almost $600 for parts and supplies!!!)
It never shifted right after that - the clutch was always dragging
because the clown didn't lube the spline.
I had the engine out to fix the oil leak and I KNEW I should have just replaced the clutch while I was at it. Started slipping a few months
ago -I put off replacing it 'till I got back from my 6 week holiday
(New Zealand, Australia, New Caledonia, American Samoa, Fiji and
Hawaii ) - took the plane off the hoist at the hangar andpulled the
tranny on Saturday - put new clutch, slave cyl, pilot bearing and rear
main seal in today - just have to bleed the clutch and install the
shifter and console tomorrow.
10 hours so far - but 3 weeks shy of 71 I am NOT doing it again - - -
Found out not onlyu did the "hired gun" not lube the spline last
time, he installed the pilot bearing backwards too - - -
I'm into it for almost $400 not counting the pain relievers!!!!!!
On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
, pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the >restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
, pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate
spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic
clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
 I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
On 5/15/2023 8:55 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
Working on cars doesn't get any easier as we age - - -
The day before yesterday I pulled the carburetor off the emergency
generator for a older buddy of mine. He is seeing the same thing.
Getting up and down even is an issue, and he recently had surgery.
I sat on the ground to pull it off, because it was just easier. I'm
getting there too.
When I bought this old Ranger 11 years ago with 307000Km on it I paid
to have the clutch replaced - $300 parts and $600 labor. (quote now is
$900 labor plus almost $600 for parts and supplies!!!)
It never shifted right after that - the clutch was always dragging
because the clown didn't lube the spline.
Maybe, or maybe didn't actually replace the pressure plate.
I fixed that last year when
I had the engine out to fix the oil leak and I KNEW I should have just
replaced the clutch while I was at it. Started slipping a few months
ago -I put off replacing it 'till I got back from my 6 week holiday
(New Zealand, Australia, New Caledonia, American Samoa, Fiji and
Hawaii ) - took the plane off the hoist at the hangar andpulled the
tranny on Saturday - put new clutch, slave cyl, pilot bearing and rear
main seal in today - just have to bleed the clutch and install the
shifter and console tomorrow.
10 hours so far - but 3 weeks shy of 71 I am NOT doing it again - - -
Found out not onlyu did the "hired gun" not lube the spline last
time, he installed the pilot bearing backwards too - - -
Oh Dang-It!
I'm into it for almost $400 not counting the pain relievers!!!!!!
--
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist
On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:I've seen the ball on the engine block side AND the pivot on the
On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom
, pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate
spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic
clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the >restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
On 5/17/2023 9:31 AM, Snag wrote:
On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom >>>> , pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch
never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate
spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic
clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the
restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
I had a '76 F150 with a 360 with a mechanical clutch linkage. You
wouldn't think it because the 360 was a relatively low power V8, but I
ripped the motor mount on it twice. I did put an RV cam in it. Anyway,
the motor would lift up and the clutch linkage would fall out. The
first time I crawled underneath adjusted it back, and used deep socket
to replace the front piece of the linkage that was lost somewhere in the >rocks behind me. I am sure I used half a dozen deep sockets to get home
at one time or another.
I could start it in gear if I had to and then speed shift, but it was
pretty brutal.
After I ripped the second motor mount instead of replacing it I drilled >through it to install a modestly large grade 8 bolt to hold the two
halves together through the rubber. The rubber still seemed to soak up >engine vibration, and it never dropped a deep socket out on the ground
again.
--The F100 mechanical clutch linkage was a TERRIBLE piece of
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist
On Wed, 17 May 2023 13:27:23 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 5/17/2023 9:31 AM, Snag wrote:The F100 mechanical clutch linkage was a TERRIBLE piece of
On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only
way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom >>>>> , pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch >>>>> never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate >>>> spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem...
The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic >>>> clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
 I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the
restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
I had a '76 F150 with a 360 with a mechanical clutch linkage. You
wouldn't think it because the 360 was a relatively low power V8, but I
ripped the motor mount on it twice. I did put an RV cam in it. Anyway,
the motor would lift up and the clutch linkage would fall out. The
first time I crawled underneath adjusted it back, and used deep socket
to replace the front piece of the linkage that was lost somewhere in the
rocks behind me. I am sure I used half a dozen deep sockets to get home
at one time or another.
I could start it in gear if I had to and then speed shift, but it was
pretty brutal.
After I ripped the second motor mount instead of replacing it I drilled
through it to install a modestly large grade 8 bolt to hold the two
halves together through the rubber. The rubber still seemed to soak up
engine vibration, and it never dropped a deep socket out on the ground
again.
--
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist
engineering, exceded only by the column shift linkage.Didn't think
anyone could make anything worse than the GM column linkage - but Ford managed!!!
On 5/18/2023 7:08 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:It wasn't a gastank problem - it was the bolts in the rear bumper
On Wed, 17 May 2023 13:27:23 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 5/17/2023 9:31 AM, Snag wrote:The F100 mechanical clutch linkage was a TERRIBLE piece of
On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only >>>>>> way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom >>>>>> , pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch >>>>>> never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate >>>>> spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem... >>>>>
The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic >>>>> clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing
cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the >>>> restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side .
I had a '76 F150 with a 360 with a mechanical clutch linkage. You
wouldn't think it because the 360 was a relatively low power V8, but I
ripped the motor mount on it twice. I did put an RV cam in it. Anyway, >>> the motor would lift up and the clutch linkage would fall out. The
first time I crawled underneath adjusted it back, and used deep socket
to replace the front piece of the linkage that was lost somewhere in the >>> rocks behind me. I am sure I used half a dozen deep sockets to get home >>> at one time or another.
I could start it in gear if I had to and then speed shift, but it was
pretty brutal.
After I ripped the second motor mount instead of replacing it I drilled
through it to install a modestly large grade 8 bolt to hold the two
halves together through the rubber. The rubber still seemed to soak up
engine vibration, and it never dropped a deep socket out on the ground
again.
--
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a >>> real machinist
engineering, exceded only by the column shift linkage.Didn't think
anyone could make anything worse than the GM column linkage - but Ford
managed!!!
How about the Pinto Hatchback gas tank or the Pinto Station wagon starter?
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
On Fri, 19 May 2023 15:10:30 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 5/18/2023 7:08 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:It wasn't a gastank problem - it was the bolts in the rear bumper
On Wed, 17 May 2023 13:27:23 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 5/17/2023 9:31 AM, Snag wrote:The F100 mechanical clutch linkage was a TERRIBLE piece of
On 5/17/2023 7:13 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:I had a '76 F150 with a 360 with a mechanical clutch linkage. You
On Wed, 17 May 2023 06:37:47 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
I once owned a 1989 Chevy truck with a hydraulic clutch , the only >>>>>>> way I found was basically the way you did it . I worked from the bottom >>>>>>> , pushed the hydraulic fluid up from the slave cylinder . That clutch >>>>>>> never did release properly , I suspect the clutch arm was bent .
You can't grind/reface the flywheel without also adding the appropriate >>>>>> spacer plate to make up the difference or you'll have that problem... >>>>>>
The old mechanical clutches worked PERFECTLY in their trucks. Hydraulic >>>>>> clutches were a solution looking for a problem :(
 I don't know that it was ever worked on except for me replacing >>>>> cylinders . I wished the whole time I had that truck that it was a
mechanical linkage system . The only problem I ever had with a
mechanical was the time my '65 Impala busted a motor mount ... and the >>>>> restraint cable . That 327 was doing it's best to stand on one side . >>>>
wouldn't think it because the 360 was a relatively low power V8, but I >>>> ripped the motor mount on it twice. I did put an RV cam in it. Anyway, >>>> the motor would lift up and the clutch linkage would fall out. The
first time I crawled underneath adjusted it back, and used deep socket >>>> to replace the front piece of the linkage that was lost somewhere in the >>>> rocks behind me. I am sure I used half a dozen deep sockets to get home >>>> at one time or another.
I could start it in gear if I had to and then speed shift, but it was
pretty brutal.
After I ripped the second motor mount instead of replacing it I drilled >>>> through it to install a modestly large grade 8 bolt to hold the two
halves together through the rubber. The rubber still seemed to soak up >>>> engine vibration, and it never dropped a deep socket out on the ground >>>> again.
--
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a >>>> real machinist
engineering, exceded only by the column shift linkage.Didn't think
anyone could make anything worse than the GM column linkage - but Ford
managed!!!
How about the Pinto Hatchback gas tank or the Pinto Station wagon starter? >> --
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
that punctured the tank. Many other vehicles had the tank installed in EXACTLY the same manner and location - and what about the GM pickups
with the tank in the cab behind the seat?????
And how was the pinto station wagon starter different than the
starter on the coupe or hatch??
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