Interesting gizmo for probing circuit boards. Looks a bit clunky for
what I used to do but would be nice it you did a lot of the same board repairs :)
https://hackaday.com/2023/08/11/hackaday-prize-2023-circuit-scout-lends-a-hand-or-two-for-troubleshooting/
===
Troubleshooting a circuit is easy, right? All you need is a couple of
hands to hold the probes, another hand to twiddle the knobs, a pair of
eyes to look at the schematic, another pair to look at the circuit
board, and, for fancy work, X-ray vision to see through the board so
you know what pads to probe. It’s child’s play!
In the real world, most of us don’t have all the extra parts needed to
do the job right, which is where something like CircuitScout would come
in mighty handy. [Fangzheng Liu] and [Thomas Juldo]’s design is a
little like a small pick-and-place machine, except that instead of
placing components, the dual gantries place probes on whatever test
points you need to look at. The stepper-controlled gantries move independently over a fixture to hold the PCB in a known position so
that the servo-controlled Z-axes can drive the probes down to the right
place on the board...
I could hold one or two scope probes steady on a tiny part. Usually for a >prototype that the design engineer would test I extended the component pads
a little to give room to solder on a fine wire to clip the probe to, plus a >nearby ground to avoid distortion of high speed signals.
On Sat, 12 Aug 2023 13:42:35 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
<snip>
I could hold one or two scope probes steady on a tiny part. Usually for a
prototype that the design engineer would test I extended the component pads >> a little to give room to solder on a fine wire to clip the probe to, plus a >> nearby ground to avoid distortion of high speed signals.
Used to do similar. We replaced the scope probe tip with a short piece
of sharpened antenna rod. Big help for keeping it from slipping off.
Also did the same soldering bits of wire here and there to clip onto.
Circuit speed wasn't a big issue when I was doing CRT Terminal repair.
Like ADDS, TeleVideo, Wyse and even a few Heathkits back in the early
1980's. We didn't really have a jigs or prober type stuff. Needed whole
units to power up assemblies/boards.
I had a couple loupes, hand magnifiers, hand-help "microscope" and
different light sources. I'm really near sighted which was helpful for inspecting boards for suspicious solder joints and such.
You were on a whole nother level than me with just a couple years
electronic tech school training...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ub8q6o$1ftsf$1@dont-email.me...
Oh, it was a group page.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------
It might possibly be a group interest. Everyone breaks stuff.
I just fixed an electrical fault in an immobile mobility scooter I
bought for $100 at a flea market. Hopefully having one means I won't
need it, cheap insurance. If my knee goes out again I have it on hand.
At my age I may loan it to friends or family while they wait for Medicare.
If I went to these events it might be easier. I could muscle the the
thing around a little bit as needed, but that is no longer medically
allowed for her. She may have the strength, but it could aggravate or
damage surgical repairs.
When I worked for the medical supplier I had to unload them from trucks >without so much as a ramp to slide them down and some weighted 125#, enough >to cripple me so I'd need one myself.
When I worked for the medical supplier I had to unload them from trucks >without so much as a ramp to slide them down and some weighted 125#, enough >to cripple me so I'd need one myself.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ubb2q8$1tdhq$1@dont-email.me...
My wife has been making noise about wanting an electric mobility scooter
for large events she still goes to. BlizzCon, Cochella Music Festival,
etc. The problem is she wants something that folds up to fit in the
back of her Veloster Turbo and can be lifted in and out with some sort
of crane.
I once questioned her ability to load a weeks worth of camping gear and supplies in a Miata, so I'm not saying its impossible. Just not easy.
If I went to these events it might be easier. I could muscle the the
thing around a little bit as needed, but that is no longer medically
allowed for her. She may have the strength, but it could aggravate or damage surgical repairs.
-------------------
https://www.bruno.com/scooter-lifts
They need solid frame members to attach the base to, that will support
the cantilevered load. Like everything that may be chargeable to
Medicare they ain't cheap. I originally bought the CRV to carry mobility equipment plus vacation luggage for the folks. It could never be
mistaken for a sports car. Maybe a delivery van.
The ~20 year old scooter I bought weighs 98# assembled but breaks down
into ~30# or less pieces, the heaviest being the AGM battery pack and
the rear drive assembly which both have good top handles. You have to be
able to bend low or squat or kneel to disassemble or reassemble it. I couldn't find a lighter Lithium battery in the 12V, 12Ah form factor it
takes that would supply more than a third of its amperage rating.
When I worked for the medical supplier I had to unload them from trucks without so much as a ramp to slide them down and some weighted 125#,
enough to cripple me so I'd need one myself.
https://www.forbes.com/health/healthy-aging/best-lightweight-mobility-scooters/
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ubbj29$1vcr5$1@dont-email.me...
For the compact foldable ones I had an idea for a frame that sets inside
the car. Lift straight up. Pin to trolley on rail. Slide out on extendable rail. Minimal pulling effort on cart or extend with gas spring. Lower straight down. Unfold. Can be operated with an electric cable winch. Could possibly be locked in place with vertical jack members, bolted through cargo area bed, or tied into cargo loops
depending on specific application. Light weight foldable carts only,
but that is what she wants.
I had a buddy who sold and serviced electric mobility carts for a while.
I've still got a couple fairly powerful DC motor around here he gave
me from scrap carts. He did all his sales and service out of a mid size van.
He had one cart that was really an adult size electric bicycle/trike he
used with a bicycle trailer for hauling stuff at swap meets and fairs.
I think it was way to fast to be "legally" an electric mobility device,
but he got away with it.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------
Good idea, I've considered something similar on wheels to hoist new
shingles up to the roof. The problem may be finding stock for the
extensible trolley rail, and a trolley with wheels that fit it. On one storage shed I bolt the temporary outdoor extension to a fixed inside
track and place an adjustable support under the outer end. I had to
modify a trolley to use back-to-back C channel for the rail and made a trolley from scratch to bolt to an HF 1300# electric winch. The HF
trolley's wheels are too large for 3" C channel unless turned down. You
don't want the trolley or extension moving on its own when the vehicle's
rear sags as the load moves outward.
An advantage of two C channels over a solid track is that it can be
suspended or spliced with a plate or rectangular tube between the
halves, without blocking the trolley.
I've built a number of hoists and my favorite for loading into a vehicle
is a pickup bed crane. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-capacity-pickup-truck-bed-crane-with-hand-winch-61522.html?utm_source=google
I've used it to winch logs to the trail and lift them onto a sawbuck to
cut to firewood length.
I bought the low profile one and made an extension mast for taller bulky items like my TIG welder. The base isn't seriously in the way when not
in use. They are heavy but simple enough to fabricate for smaller loads
from lighter stock, or aluminum if you can weld or even bolt it together.
The boat winch pins to the boom and can be moved to my truck's front
ladder rack to winch small vehicles like a riding mower up ramps. A
scooter would be easy to disassemble at the top of ramps, a minimalist solution that requires only folding ramps and a small winch with added
mount or eye bolt. Swinging a crane load in risks damaging the car, especially if it isn't parked dead level.
I would suggest this temporarily while you are finding and installing a
small electric winch, though the brake on mine has become sticky and
jams, possibly from overloading it. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-ton-lever-chain-hoist-67144.html
The one incomplete discarded Bruno hoist I have uses a web strap instead
of a cable.
Today at the flea market I bought a folding box collapsible hand truck
for $5 and was towing it around with the scooter like a trailer. One of
the locking clips was missing, I think I can bend a replacement from
stiff wire.
A hoist geometry that's worked well for me is an A frame on pivots or
ball joints at the bottom. It picks up the load on one side, swings and
lifts it over the center and lowers it on the other. If the load isn't
too heavy a strut stop inside and restraining rope for the outside might
be enough. For a scooter the frame might be rectangular for clearance,
an A works fine for logs. The lever chain hoist hanging from the top
simply lifts straight up and lowers straight down.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ubbshp$20olp$1@dont-email.me...
...
I was thinking something that looks like a roll cage. Maybe two upper
cross members and 4 support posts (made from two pieces of bent tube),
and the rail/trolley being mounted on something "like" a full extension drawer slide. I did a quick sketch, but the only person who would understand it is me.
Bob La Londe
------------------
That's how I read your description. If I was doing it I might bend a
sample frame from EMT to test the idea and find necessary clearances.
When I tested 10' lengths for column strength 3/4" EMT bowed at 120#, 1#
at 360#. Shorter lengths are stiffer, the 1" diagonals for my ladder
rack held 750#, the stake pocket eye limit. I don't make orders to
metal suppliers that I could add to so I use what's available locally,
after testing its limits.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ubbshp$20olp$1@dont-email.me...
...
I was thinking something that looks like a roll cage. Maybe two upper
cross members and 4 support posts (made from two pieces of bent tube),
and the rail/trolley being mounted on something "like" a full extension drawer slide. I did a quick sketch, but the only person who would
understand it is me.
Bob La Londe
------------------
That's how I read your description. If I was doing it I might bend a
sample frame from EMT to test the idea and find necessary clearances. When
I tested 10' lengths for column strength 3/4" EMT bowed at 120#, 1# at
360#. Shorter lengths are stiffer, the 1" diagonals for my ladder rack
held 750#, the stake pocket eye limit. I don't make orders to metal suppliers that I could add to so I use what's available locally, after testing its limits.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ubdjfv$2ctvu$1@dont-email.me...
On 8/14/2023 6:24 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ubbshp$20olp$1@dont-email.me...
...
I was thinking something that looks like a roll cage. Maybe two upper
cross members and 4 support posts (made from two pieces of bent tube),
and the rail/trolley being mounted on something "like" a full extension
drawer slide. I did a quick sketch, but the only person who would
understand it is me.
Bob La Londe
------------------
That's how I read your description. If I was doing it I might bend a
sample frame from EMT to test the idea and find necessary clearances.
When I tested 10' lengths for column strength 3/4" EMT bowed at 120#,
1# at 360#. Shorter lengths are stiffer, the 1" diagonals for my
ladder rack held 750#, the stake pocket eye limit. I don't make
orders to metal suppliers that I could add to so I use what's
available locally, after testing its limits.
Generally 1/2 and 3/4 EMT is pretty affordable tube. Rigid metal
conduit is functionally about the same as schedule 40 water pipe, and
its priced like it which I consider to be pretty expensive these days.
There used to be a nice compromise called IMC. Intermediate metal conduit. Technically it still exists, but last time I looked I was not
able to find any locally. With one "supplier" it was a bit of a chore
to even find out they didn't have any, "but they could get it." A brick
and mortar industrial supplier who doesn't stock things is worse than worthless. Several phone calls and emails and voice messages lead me to
the point where I realized the salesperson just wanted to "establish a relationship." I didn't want to date the asshole. I just wanted a price. I guess he was hoping he'd seduce me into wanting to buy his friendship with over priced crap. Finally I gave up and called the
store instead of trying to use their quoting process. The guy who
answered at the front counter gave me the first honest sentence in a
couple days of bullshit. "We don't stock it, but we can get it for
you." I never did get a price.
Anyway, there used to be an intermediate conduit at an intermediate
price that was a little stronger than EMT and not as expensive as water pipe. I used to be able to buy it from local electrical suppliers. I think at one time they even had it in Home Depot, but that was when they first opened here and were trying to see how many other businesses they
could make go bankrupt. After they hit their watershed they started
cutting selection and raising prices.
Bob La Londe
--------------------------
I use conduit in the smaller sizes I can bend with the manual tool, then
as loading increases change to water pipe or square tubing with joints prepped on the milling machine and stick welded. Flat sided tubing is
nicer to attach to the side of, round to fit something to the end.
Rigid conduit is effectively water pipe without the interior weld flash,
and possibly closer to round. I haven't seen IMC either and have been satisfied with what I can do with chain link fence post, which is
available with thicker gauge walls from fence suppliers. Its OD is the
same as water pipe though the nominal size may differ, being closer to
the actual measurement, which isn't an exact fraction for sizes below
2". EMT has the ID of the same nominal size of water pipe, so in some
sizes it can telescope with Big Box thin-walled fence post.
If I was building this for myself instead of suggesting how to
accomplish it your way I'd add a post or other single point attachment at/near the front of the trunk and support the other end of the gantry
hoist track with an external folding tripod.
a tripod in the 90's and have used it extensively since, mainly to lift firewood logs to cut them at waist height because I can't bend down for
long and the ground here is all sand/gravel/rocks.
I've held off describing my tripod top connection because it may be
unique and possibly patentable, at least I haven't found another
instance of it on commercial products. The legs are free to move in all directions and visibly self-adjust to distribute the load, how evenly I
don't know. I've assumed k=1 for column loading of the legs, pinned at
the top and a ball for the foot, axial with no or minimal cantilevering.
The angular geometry is somewhat variable and too 3-dimensional for me
to calculate. It's so simple to do that there is nothing to manufacture
and sell, anyone with a drill and hacksaw could copy it. Should I reveal
it here for comments?
jsw
The problem is she wants something that folds up to fit in the
back of her Veloster Turbo and can be lifted in and out with some sort
of crane.
I came up with a design for
a tripod in the 90's and have used it extensively since, mainly to lift firewood logs to cut them at waist height because I can't bend down for
long and the ground here is all sand/gravel/rocks.
On 8/14/2023 11:41 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"� wrote in message news:ubdjfv$2ctvu$1@dont-email.me...
On 8/14/2023 6:24 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"� wrote in message news:ubbshp$20olp$1@dont-email.me...
...
I was thinking something that looks like a roll cage.� Maybe two upper
cross members and 4 support posts (made from two pieces of bent tube),
and the rail/trolley being mounted on something "like" a full extension
drawer slide.� I did a quick sketch, but the only person who would
understand it is me.
Bob La Londe
------------------
That's how I read your description. If I was doing it I might bend a
sample frame from EMT to test the idea and find necessary clearances.
When I tested 10' lengths for column strength 3/4" EMT bowed at 120#,
1# at 360#. Shorter lengths are stiffer, the 1" diagonals for my
ladder rack held 750#, the stake pocket eye limit.� I don't make
orders to metal suppliers that I could add to so I use what's
available locally, after testing its limits.
Generally 1/2 and 3/4 EMT is pretty affordable tube.� Rigid metal
conduit is functionally about the same as schedule 40 water pipe, and
its priced like it which I consider to be pretty expensive these days.
There used to be a nice compromise called IMC.� Intermediate metal
conduit.� Technically it still exists, but last time I looked I was not
able to find any locally.� With one "supplier" it was a bit of a chore
to even find out they didn't have any, "but they could get it."� A brick
and mortar industrial supplier who doesn't stock things is worse than
worthless.� Several phone calls and emails and voice messages lead me to
the point where I realized the salesperson just wanted to "establish a
relationship."� I didn't want to date the asshole.� I just wanted a
price.� I guess he was hoping he'd seduce me into wanting to buy his
friendship with over priced crap.� Finally I gave up and called the
store instead of trying to use their quoting process.� The guy who
answered at the front counter gave me the first honest sentence in a
couple days of bullshit.� "We don't stock it, but we can get it for
you."� I never did get a price.
Anyway, there used to be an intermediate conduit at an intermediate
price that was a little stronger than EMT and not as expensive as water
pipe.� I used to be able to buy it from local electrical suppliers.� I
think at one time they even had it in Home Depot, but that was when they
first opened here and were trying to see how many other businesses they
could make go bankrupt.� After they hit their watershed they started
cutting selection and raising prices.
Bob La Londe
--------------------------
I use conduit in the smaller sizes I can bend with the manual tool, then
as loading increases change to water pipe or square tubing with joints
prepped on the milling machine and stick welded. Flat sided tubing is
nicer to attach to the side of, round to fit something to the end.
In a past life I ran a fair amount of conduit. I have bent upto 1-1/2
EMT with a manual bender, but I didn't like it. 1/2, 3/4 and 1 aren't
to bad, and I still have lever/foot benders for those. When I had to
run 2" speced for fiber optic runs I either bought prebent elbow
pieces, or used a harbor freight hydraulic pipe kinker for custom offsets.
Rigid conduit is effectively water pipe without the interior weld flash,
and possibly closer to round. I haven't seen IMC either and have been
satisfied with what I can do with chain link fence post, which is
available with thicker gauge walls from fence suppliers. Its OD is the
same as water pipe though the nominal size may differ, being closer to
the actual measurement, which isn't an exact fraction for sizes below
2". EMT has the ID of the same nominal size of water pipe, so in some
sizes it can telescope with Big Box thin-walled fence post.
If I was building this for myself instead of suggesting how to
accomplish it your way I'd add a post or other single point attachment
at/near the front of the trunk and support the other end of the gantry
hoist track with an external folding tripod.
I want as little as possible that must be manually deployed before it
can be used. As is I am struggling with even the fact that for my
design to work there will be a minimum of two pins or latches that must
be engaged or disengage during operation.
I am aware that the extended or telescoped rail is at a significant >mechanical disadvantage. Not just from bending, but also from possible >twisting depending on what can go wrong. My original thought in the
regard was a "brace" or frame to either side that is attached the
extended rail at the center, and rides in a support track at the outside >ends. It is easy to make quite strong this way, but I also do not want
to permanently obstruct 100% of the cargo space above the stowed cart.
Jack posts in the back (towards the front of the vehicle, or support
clamp towards the rear of the vehicle can be used to anchor it from
tipping. That's rather small consideration in the grand scheme.
Fortunately the carts my wife is looking at are pretty light as electric >mobility carts go.
I came up with a design for
a tripod in the 90's and have used it extensively since, mainly to lift
firewood logs to cut them at waist height because I can't bend down for
long and the ground here is all sand/gravel/rocks.
I wonder if it isn't a variation of the old cooking support tripods. My
son made one in a blacksmithing class he took in college for fun. He
uses is at renaissance fairs in his "camp." He also made an adjustable >length pot hook to use with it that simply slides to the length you
want, and locks with the weight of the cooking pot.
I've held off describing my tripod top connection because it may be
unique and possibly patentable, at least I haven't found another
instance of it on commercial products. The legs are free to move in all
directions and visibly self-adjust to distribute the load, how evenly I
don't know. I've assumed k=1 for column loading of the legs, pinned at
the top and a ball for the foot, axial with no or minimal cantilevering.
The angular geometry is somewhat variable and too 3-dimensional for me
to calculate. It's so simple to do that there is nothing to manufacture
and sell, anyone with a drill and hacksaw could copy it. Should I reveal
it here for comments?
jsw
That's entirely up to you. I am curious of course if your mechanism is >really different, but if I found it particularly clever I would be
tempted to copy it.
--Just get an ultralite scooter - loke SuperHandy - that folds easily
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist
On Mon, 14 Aug 2023 12:53:05 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 8/14/2023 11:41 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:Just get an ultralite scooter - loke SuperHandy - that folds easily
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ubdjfv$2ctvu$1@dont-email.me...
On 8/14/2023 6:24 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ubbshp$20olp$1@dont-email.me... >>>> ...
I was thinking something that looks like a roll cage. Maybe two upper >>>> cross members and 4 support posts (made from two pieces of bent tube), >>>> and the rail/trolley being mounted on something "like" a full extension >>>> drawer slide. I did a quick sketch, but the only person who would
understand it is me.
Bob La Londe
------------------
That's how I read your description. If I was doing it I might bend a
sample frame from EMT to test the idea and find necessary clearances.
When I tested 10' lengths for column strength 3/4" EMT bowed at 120#,
1# at 360#. Shorter lengths are stiffer, the 1" diagonals for my
ladder rack held 750#, the stake pocket eye limit. I don't make
orders to metal suppliers that I could add to so I use what's
available locally, after testing its limits.
Generally 1/2 and 3/4 EMT is pretty affordable tube. Rigid metal
conduit is functionally about the same as schedule 40 water pipe, and
its priced like it which I consider to be pretty expensive these days.
There used to be a nice compromise called IMC. Intermediate metal
conduit. Technically it still exists, but last time I looked I was not >>> able to find any locally. With one "supplier" it was a bit of a chore
to even find out they didn't have any, "but they could get it." A brick >>> and mortar industrial supplier who doesn't stock things is worse than
worthless. Several phone calls and emails and voice messages lead me to >>> the point where I realized the salesperson just wanted to "establish a
relationship." I didn't want to date the asshole. I just wanted a
price. I guess he was hoping he'd seduce me into wanting to buy his
friendship with over priced crap. Finally I gave up and called the
store instead of trying to use their quoting process. The guy who
answered at the front counter gave me the first honest sentence in a
couple days of bullshit. "We don't stock it, but we can get it for
you." I never did get a price.
Anyway, there used to be an intermediate conduit at an intermediate
price that was a little stronger than EMT and not as expensive as water
pipe. I used to be able to buy it from local electrical suppliers. I >>> think at one time they even had it in Home Depot, but that was when they >>> first opened here and were trying to see how many other businesses they
could make go bankrupt. After they hit their watershed they started
cutting selection and raising prices.
Bob La Londe
--------------------------
I use conduit in the smaller sizes I can bend with the manual tool, then >>> as loading increases change to water pipe or square tubing with joints
prepped on the milling machine and stick welded. Flat sided tubing is
nicer to attach to the side of, round to fit something to the end.
In a past life I ran a fair amount of conduit. I have bent upto 1-1/2
EMT with a manual bender, but I didn't like it. 1/2, 3/4 and 1 aren't
to bad, and I still have lever/foot benders for those. When I had to
run 2" speced for fiber optic runs I either bought prebent elbow
pieces, or used a harbor freight hydraulic pipe kinker for custom offsets. >>
Rigid conduit is effectively water pipe without the interior weld flash, >>> and possibly closer to round. I haven't seen IMC either and have been
satisfied with what I can do with chain link fence post, which is
available with thicker gauge walls from fence suppliers. Its OD is the
same as water pipe though the nominal size may differ, being closer to
the actual measurement, which isn't an exact fraction for sizes below
2". EMT has the ID of the same nominal size of water pipe, so in some
sizes it can telescope with Big Box thin-walled fence post.
If I was building this for myself instead of suggesting how to
accomplish it your way I'd add a post or other single point attachment
at/near the front of the trunk and support the other end of the gantry
hoist track with an external folding tripod.
I want as little as possible that must be manually deployed before it
can be used. As is I am struggling with even the fact that for my
design to work there will be a minimum of two pins or latches that must
be engaged or disengage during operation.
I am aware that the extended or telescoped rail is at a significant
mechanical disadvantage. Not just from bending, but also from possible
twisting depending on what can go wrong. My original thought in the
regard was a "brace" or frame to either side that is attached the
extended rail at the center, and rides in a support track at the outside
ends. It is easy to make quite strong this way, but I also do not want
to permanently obstruct 100% of the cargo space above the stowed cart.
Jack posts in the back (towards the front of the vehicle, or support
clamp towards the rear of the vehicle can be used to anchor it from
tipping. That's rather small consideration in the grand scheme.
Fortunately the carts my wife is looking at are pretty light as electric
mobility carts go.
I came up with a design for
a tripod in the 90's and have used it extensively since, mainly to lift
firewood logs to cut them at waist height because I can't bend down for
long and the ground here is all sand/gravel/rocks.
I wonder if it isn't a variation of the old cooking support tripods. My
son made one in a blacksmithing class he took in college for fun. He
uses is at renaissance fairs in his "camp." He also made an adjustable
length pot hook to use with it that simply slides to the length you
want, and locks with the weight of the cooking pot.
I've held off describing my tripod top connection because it may be
unique and possibly patentable, at least I haven't found another
instance of it on commercial products. The legs are free to move in all
directions and visibly self-adjust to distribute the load, how evenly I
don't know. I've assumed k=1 for column loading of the legs, pinned at
the top and a ball for the foot, axial with no or minimal cantilevering. >>> The angular geometry is somewhat variable and too 3-dimensional for me
to calculate. It's so simple to do that there is nothing to manufacture
and sell, anyone with a drill and hacksaw could copy it. Should I reveal >>> it here for comments?
jsw
That's entirely up to you. I am curious of course if your mechanism is
really different, but if I found it particularly clever I would be
tempted to copy it.
--
Bob La Londe
Proffessional Hack, Hobbyist, Wannabe, Shade Tree, Button Pushing, Not a
real machinist
and weighd 35 lbs.
Or an ATTO Travel scooter = breaks down into 2 parts - 62 lbs total
so aboiut 30 each part.
..."Bob La Londe"� wrote in message news:ubbj29$1vcr5$1@dont-email.me...
For the compact foldable ones I had an idea for a frame that sets inside
the car.� Lift straight up.� Pin to trolley on rail.� Slide out on
extendable rail.� Minimal pulling effort on cart or extend with gas
spring.� Lower straight down.� Unfold.� Can be operated with an electric
cable winch.�� Could possibly be locked in place with vertical jack
members, bolted through cargo area bed, or tied into cargo loops
depending on specific application.� Light weight foldable carts only,
but that is what she wants.
I was thinking something that looks like a roll cage. Maybe two upper
cross members and 4 support posts (made from two pieces of bent tube),
and the rail/trolley being mounted on something "like" a full extension drawer slide. [...]
Based on my scooter I think a person who couldn't lift weight when bent down >due to knee or back problems might manage by winching it up a ramp and >separating or connecting the parts while standing. The problem then is >finding a light enough set of folding ramps.
On Wed, 16 Aug 2023 10:23:57 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
<snip>
Based on my scooter I think a person who couldn't lift weight when bent down >> due to knee or back problems might manage by winching it up a ramp and
separating or connecting the parts while standing. The problem then is
finding a light enough set of folding ramps.
There's several versions of mini-cranes purposely made for this... but they're usually pictured in a taller hatchback than the Veloster. It
appears to have a rather cramped area where they attach the cranes...
https://www.themobilityresource.com/adaptive-driving-equipment/scooter-lifts/
I actually have a 12V crane type lift that was given to me by my friend
who used to be in the electric mobility business. My plan was to use it
for heavy vises and rotary tables in the shop in conjunction with a
"tool" cart with the heavier of those items store on top.
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