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  • fender supports

    From Clare Snyder@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 8 00:27:46 2023
    OK guys, I have a question for you metal gurus. I am building a
    replica of a Briggs and Stratton or Smith Flyer. It uses 20 inch
    wheels (Bicycle) and bike fenders. I would like to mount the fenders
    with single side mounts instead of the standard "hoop" mounts used on
    a bicycle. (I have lots of them - but don't really like the look
    either painted or chromed and they make removing the wheel
    complicated) What should I use? I am thinking 5/16" CRS.

    Should I use 1018? or A36? A36 is slightly higher carbon (and usually
    HRS rather than CRS -?).
    Is 5/15 1018 overkill?would 1/4" be adequate? I would likelt be
    welding 1/16 or 1/8" flat steel on the end bent to fit the inner shape
    of the fender. Thinking with 5/16 I would cut a kerf in the end of the
    round and either braze or TIG the flst into the kerf after rounding
    the end The other end needs to be bolted to the spindle - thinking of
    using a "drilled bolt" similar to https://www.amazon.ca/Fender-Mudguard-BLUEMELS-Vintage-M5x17mm/dp/B07STDDS3P
    to make them adjustable and easy to remove without having a HAZ down
    at the high stress area from welding.

    Am I on the right track, or am I crazy? (I know - you'll say I'm BOTH
    - - - )

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 8 07:17:24 2023
    "Clare Snyder" wrote in message news:us94ii928r5i2i4jlubn0stblsaigdc6en@4ax.com...

    OK guys, I have a question for you metal gurus. I am building a
    replica of a Briggs and Stratton or Smith Flyer. It uses 20 inch
    wheels (Bicycle) and bike fenders. I would like to mount the fenders
    with single side mounts instead of the standard "hoop" mounts used on
    a bicycle. (I have lots of them - but don't really like the look
    either painted or chromed and they make removing the wheel
    complicated) What should I use? I am thinking 5/16" CRS.

    Should I use 1018? or A36? A36 is slightly higher carbon (and usually
    HRS rather than CRS -?).
    Is 5/15 1018 overkill?would 1/4" be adequate? I would likelt be
    welding 1/16 or 1/8" flat steel on the end bent to fit the inner shape
    of the fender. Thinking with 5/16 I would cut a kerf in the end of the
    round and either braze or TIG the flst into the kerf after rounding
    the end The other end needs to be bolted to the spindle - thinking of
    using a "drilled bolt" similar to https://www.amazon.ca/Fender-Mudguard-BLUEMELS-Vintage-M5x17mm/dp/B07STDDS3P
    to make them adjustable and easy to remove without having a HAZ down
    at the high stress area from welding.

    Am I on the right track, or am I crazy? (I know - you'll say I'm BOTH
    - - - )

    ------------------------------

    https://www.agrisupply.com/hole-landscape-rake-tine/p/10454/
    "These rake tines are made of high strength 5160 steel, and they have been
    heat treated to 38-42 Rockwell for better flexibility and performance. This landscape rake tine is 1 inch wide and 27 inches long."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Clare Snyder on Sun Oct 8 09:08:40 2023
    On Sun, 08 Oct 2023 00:27:46 -0400
    Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca> wrote:

    OK guys, I have a question for you metal gurus. I am building a
    replica of a Briggs and Stratton or Smith Flyer. It uses 20 inch
    wheels (Bicycle) and bike fenders. I would like to mount the fenders
    with single side mounts instead of the standard "hoop" mounts used on
    a bicycle. (I have lots of them - but don't really like the look
    either painted or chromed and they make removing the wheel
    complicated) What should I use? I am thinking 5/16" CRS.

    I've become super lazy when it comes to fabbing stuff. Usually go find something pre-built that will do what I wantšŸ¤·

    Check out the fenders and mounting on this "B-Back: a tricycle
    accessory":

    https://add-bike.com/en/b-back/

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 8 10:35:12 2023
    "Clare Snyder" wrote in message news:us94ii928r5i2i4jlubn0stblsaigdc6en@4ax.com...

    OK guys, I have a question for you metal gurus. I am building a
    replica of a Briggs and Stratton or Smith Flyer. It uses 20 inch
    wheels (Bicycle) and bike fenders. I would like to mount the fenders
    with single side mounts instead of the standard "hoop" mounts used on
    a bicycle. (I have lots of them - but don't really like the look
    either painted or chromed and they make removing the wheel
    complicated) What should I use? I am thinking 5/16" CRS.

    Should I use 1018? or A36? A36 is slightly higher carbon (and usually
    HRS rather than CRS -?).
    Is 5/15 1018 overkill?would 1/4" be adequate? I would likelt be
    welding 1/16 or 1/8" flat steel on the end bent to fit the inner shape
    of the fender. Thinking with 5/16 I would cut a kerf in the end of the
    round and either braze or TIG the flst into the kerf after rounding
    the end The other end needs to be bolted to the spindle - thinking of
    using a "drilled bolt" similar to https://www.amazon.ca/Fender-Mudguard-BLUEMELS-Vintage-M5x17mm/dp/B07STDDS3P
    to make them adjustable and easy to remove without having a HAZ down
    at the high stress area from welding.

    Am I on the right track, or am I crazy? (I know - you'll say I'm BOTH
    - - - )

    -------------------------

    CRS resists permanent bending better than HRS and comes galvanized, from the local hardware store. Cost vs availability. Anything used outdoors can be caught in a rain shower. As for the square stock it seems that blacksmiths
    use at least 5/16" for various weight bearing brackets like plant hangers. Their hot work is fully annealed to the softest condition.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Clare Snyder@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 9 00:11:59 2023
    On Sun, 8 Oct 2023 09:08:40 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
    wrote:

    On Sun, 08 Oct 2023 00:27:46 -0400
    Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca> wrote:

    OK guys, I have a question for you metal gurus. I am building a
    replica of a Briggs and Stratton or Smith Flyer. It uses 20 inch
    wheels (Bicycle) and bike fenders. I would like to mount the fenders
    with single side mounts instead of the standard "hoop" mounts used on
    a bicycle. (I have lots of them - but don't really like the look
    either painted or chromed and they make removing the wheel
    complicated) What should I use? I am thinking 5/16" CRS.

    I've become super lazy when it comes to fabbing stuff. Usually go find >something pre-built that will do what I want?

    Check out the fenders and mounting on this "B-Back: a tricycle
    accessory":

    https://add-bike.com/en/b-back/
    Not even close. Plastic fenders fastened by angle brackets to a
    box??? I need steering fenders that look lioke they were made in 1919

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 9 06:57:14 2023
    "Clare Snyder" wrote in message news:u9v6iih2v5o2fip895g2l2jqb5k2p7edkh@4ax.com...

    Not even close. Plastic fenders fastened by angle brackets to a
    box??? I need steering fenders that look lioke they were made in 1919

    ----------------------------

    I found some plans for Smith and B&S on line, but didn't see fenders or
    mounts for them. What do your sources show?

    I saw some on an early Maxwell that reminded me of horse-drawn carriage
    fender mounts forged by blacksmiths.

    The fender mounts appear in some of these photos: https://keysorautomobileworks.com/2016/12/06/1905-maxwell-l-tourabout/#fancybox[4199]-4

    It's a simple enough part to replace if 5/16" square stock allows too much vibration.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)