• Soft Start For Dummies

    From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 10 15:04:55 2023
    In my shop I run a 5HP Ingersol Rand 2 stage compressor. The first
    motor lasted just a little longer than the warranty, but until it let
    the magic smoke out it started the compressor every single time. I had
    an extended warranty so eventually when the service company got tired of
    lying to me and lying to the warranty company I eventually got a new
    motor. Not the same motor (thank goodness), but also not the same frame
    size motor.

    (In the interim I ran a cheap motor I bought on-line.)

    The interim motor would trip its thermal protector all the time. Drove
    me bonkers. The new motor I eventually got also trips its thermal
    protector, but not as often. The trip is just about always on startup.
    The unloader appears to be operating correctly.

    All of the motors are/were single phase induction motors with a great
    big pair of caps on them. (run and start caps) In my research into the original crappy motor from Ingersol Rand (reviews were insanely bad
    including claims of bursting into flame) a couple people recommended
    installing a soft start kit on the motor or any replacement motor.

    Anybody have a soft start for dummies guide they can point me to that
    might be appropriate for this application?

    I also considered a reduced pulley size to reduce load on the motor, but
    then the motor would run longer each time it cycled on. I don't know
    what the balance of heat build up would be from longer run, verses less
    load. Compressor duty motors are not intended to run continuously.

    I also considered a 3 phase motor with a VFD and a soft start programmed
    into the VFD, but 5HP 3 phase motors aren't cheap and neither are VFDs
    big enough to drive them on single phase.

    If this thing exploded tomorrow I'd be tempted to go back to the 3.7 HP compressors I ran before, and just plan to repair them every couple years.



    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
    www.avg.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 10 19:03:44 2023
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ug4hq7$1cjmf$1@dont-email.me...

    In my shop I run a 5HP Ingersol Rand 2 stage compressor. The first
    motor lasted just a little longer than the warranty, but until it let
    the magic smoke out it started the compressor every single time.

    -------------------------

    I put this PZEM-061 on my mongrel 80 gallon compressor to observe and
    compare the current draw to the motor's rating, to match the motor pulley to
    a replacement compressor pump.

    https://tinyurl.com/yhjfzcxc

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 10 19:20:15 2023
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ug4hq7$1cjmf$1@dont-email.me...

    Might your unloader have failed and be forcing the motor to start against pressure?

    My 1/2HP compressor wouldn't start from a 3KW generator until I modified a blowoff valve into a manual lever controlled unloader. The genny won't start
    my ancient Maytag unless I push the spring-loaded motor inward to loosen the belt.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Wed Oct 11 08:46:07 2023
    On Tue, 10 Oct 2023 19:03:44 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ug4hq7$1cjmf$1@dont-email.me...

    In my shop I run a 5HP Ingersol Rand 2 stage compressor. The first
    motor lasted just a little longer than the warranty, but until it let
    the magic smoke out it started the compressor every single time.

    -------------------------

    I put this PZEM-061 on my mongrel 80 gallon compressor to observe and
    compare the current draw to the motor's rating, to match the motor pulley to >a replacement compressor pump.

    https://tinyurl.com/yhjfzcxc


    Would that be able to show if there was a significant voltage sag
    while it was trying to start? Transient events like that (lasting just
    seconds) can be hard to spot...

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Joe Gwinn@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 11 11:00:55 2023
    On Tue, 10 Oct 2023 15:04:55 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
    wrote:

    In my shop I run a 5HP Ingersol Rand 2 stage compressor. The first
    motor lasted just a little longer than the warranty, but until it let
    the magic smoke out it started the compressor every single time. I had
    an extended warranty so eventually when the service company got tired of >lying to me and lying to the warranty company I eventually got a new
    motor. Not the same motor (thank goodness), but also not the same frame
    size motor.

    (In the interim I ran a cheap motor I bought on-line.)

    The interim motor would trip its thermal protector all the time. Drove
    me bonkers. The new motor I eventually got also trips its thermal
    protector, but not as often. The trip is just about always on startup.
    The unloader appears to be operating correctly.

    All of the motors are/were single phase induction motors with a great
    big pair of caps on them. (run and start caps) In my research into the >original crappy motor from Ingersol Rand (reviews were insanely bad
    including claims of bursting into flame) a couple people recommended >installing a soft start kit on the motor or any replacement motor.

    Anybody have a soft start for dummies guide they can point me to that
    might be appropriate for this application?

    I also considered a reduced pulley size to reduce load on the motor, but
    then the motor would run longer each time it cycled on. I don't know
    what the balance of heat build up would be from longer run, verses less
    load. Compressor duty motors are not intended to run continuously.

    I also considered a 3 phase motor with a VFD and a soft start programmed
    into the VFD, but 5HP 3 phase motors aren't cheap and neither are VFDs
    big enough to drive them on single phase.

    If this thing exploded tomorrow I'd be tempted to go back to the 3.7 HP >compressors I ran before, and just plan to repair them every couple years.

    It sure sounds like the motor is a tad too small for the task. And/or
    needs the pulley system to run the pump slower for a given motor
    speed.

    Joe Gwinn

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Wed Oct 11 13:10:53 2023
    "Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:ug65ef$1qtoh$1@dont-email.me...

    On Tue, 10 Oct 2023 19:03:44 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
    PZEM-061

    Would that be able to show if there was a significant voltage sag
    while it was trying to start? Transient events like that (lasting just
    seconds) can be hard to spot...
    Leon Fisk

    -------------------------
    They aren't as fast or good as analog meters for detecting glitches, but
    they will indicate high circuit resistance that could cause a voltage sag by the current and voltage drop when running. One reason is that the changing digital display isn't as noticeable in your peripheral vision as a sudden needle jump. I leave an analog Amprobe on troublesome old motors to show
    when the start switch has stuck open. The PZEM-061 like is a 240V, 100A Kill-A-Watt. Installing one in an electrical box cover is a good test of
    layout and filing skills. I'll just say that I've gotten better at it.

    A voltage sag is more a symptom of a problem in your supply circuit.
    Although it takes more test equipment I prefer to monitor the current draw
    to tell if something is operating normally or has a problem.

    My UT61E DVM supposedly can capture peak transients but its readings of them don't relate well to oscilloscope captures. My datalogger uses it and other RS232-output DVMs as sensors and won't capture events shorter than a second.

    The best I have to capture current spikes on a scope is a Hantek Hall effect probe for DC and a Fluke current clamp for AC. They were fairly inexpensive
    and good enough for hobby use such as measuring refrigerator starting
    surges, to select a large enough inverter.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Joe Gwinn on Wed Oct 11 10:49:18 2023
    On 10/11/2023 8:00 AM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Tue, 10 Oct 2023 15:04:55 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
    wrote:

    In my shop I run a 5HP Ingersol Rand 2 stage compressor. The first
    motor lasted just a little longer than the warranty, but until it let
    the magic smoke out it started the compressor every single time. I had
    an extended warranty so eventually when the service company got tired of
    lying to me and lying to the warranty company I eventually got a new
    motor. Not the same motor (thank goodness), but also not the same frame
    size motor.

    (In the interim I ran a cheap motor I bought on-line.)

    The interim motor would trip its thermal protector all the time. Drove
    me bonkers. The new motor I eventually got also trips its thermal
    protector, but not as often. The trip is just about always on startup.
    The unloader appears to be operating correctly.

    All of the motors are/were single phase induction motors with a great
    big pair of caps on them. (run and start caps) In my research into the
    original crappy motor from Ingersol Rand (reviews were insanely bad
    including claims of bursting into flame) a couple people recommended
    installing a soft start kit on the motor or any replacement motor.

    Anybody have a soft start for dummies guide they can point me to that
    might be appropriate for this application?

    I also considered a reduced pulley size to reduce load on the motor, but
    then the motor would run longer each time it cycled on. I don't know
    what the balance of heat build up would be from longer run, verses less
    load. Compressor duty motors are not intended to run continuously.

    I also considered a 3 phase motor with a VFD and a soft start programmed
    into the VFD, but 5HP 3 phase motors aren't cheap and neither are VFDs
    big enough to drive them on single phase.

    If this thing exploded tomorrow I'd be tempted to go back to the 3.7 HP
    compressors I ran before, and just plan to repair them every couple years.

    It sure sounds like the motor is a tad too small for the task. And/or
    needs the pulley system to run the pump slower for a given motor
    speed.

    Joe Gwinn


    I assure you its very unlikely I will ever buy another IR compressor.


    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
    www.avg.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Wed Oct 11 14:02:43 2023
    On Wed, 11 Oct 2023 13:10:53 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    The best I have to capture current spikes on a scope is a Hantek Hall effect >probe for DC and a Fluke current clamp for AC. They were fairly inexpensive >and good enough for hobby use such as measuring refrigerator starting >surges, to select a large enough inverter.

    Thanks, good info👍

    Analog meters were still widely used when I started working. Switched
    to a digital (bought my own) a few years in. The analog meter
    spike/twitch was sorely missing. Maybe 10 years later I bought a Fluke
    87 which had the bottom bar in the display that updated 4x? faster than
    the digital display. Was quirky but helpful once you got used to it...

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Clare Snyder@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 11 17:52:19 2023
    On Wed, 11 Oct 2023 14:02:43 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
    wrote:

    On Wed, 11 Oct 2023 13:10:53 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    The best I have to capture current spikes on a scope is a Hantek Hall effect >>probe for DC and a Fluke current clamp for AC. They were fairly inexpensive >>and good enough for hobby use such as measuring refrigerator starting >>surges, to select a large enough inverter.

    Thanks, good info?

    Analog meters were still widely used when I started working. Switched
    to a digital (bought my own) a few years in. The analog meter
    spike/twitch was sorely missing. Maybe 10 years later I bought a Fluke
    87 which had the bottom bar in the display that updated 4x? faster than
    the digital display. Was quirky but helpful once you got used to it...

    My compressor motor was originally wired for 115 and it kicked out on
    start-up about hnalf the time when cold and about 10% of the time when
    warm. I switched it over to 230 and it hasn't had a single issue
    since. I even put a bigger pulley on it after converting to 230. My
    original motor was a repulsion start monster(with brishes) but the
    start switch went bad and parts were unobtanium so I switched to the
    cap-start

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Fri Oct 13 20:09:49 2023
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ug4hq7$1cjmf$1@dont-email.me...

    In my shop I run a 5HP Ingersol Rand 2 stage compressor. The first
    motor lasted just a little longer than the warranty, but until it let
    the magic smoke out it started the compressor every single time.

    --------------------------

    Here is a better controlled alternative to a mechanical unloader. It might reduce the starting surge enough to make the motor last much longer. https://tameson.com/pages/compressor-unloader-valves

    Their indirect valve operates like the water valves on a lawn sprinkler
    system. It does the same thing as my manual cammed-open pressure relief
    valve, lets the motor start without a load. A mechanical unloader releases
    the air between the compressor head and the tank check valve when the
    pressure sensing diaphragm in the control unit rises to shut off the motor,
    but the head outlet pipe's volume is low and the unloader vent valve closes when the diaphragm drops and pressure builds again on the first piston upstroke. A timed unloader can vent the air until the motor reach full
    speed.

    I think you could add one in parallel with the mechanical unloader, the compressor won't build pressure until both unloaders have stopped venting.

    Today at the ham radio flea market I picked up and examined a 1-10 second
    time delay relay of the type I had used in industrial relay logic
    controllers in the 70's. The seller explained using it to time a solenoid
    valve unloader on a compressor, which suggests he had seen it done. I was
    just trying to remember if I already had one like it. I built a 240V
    spotwelder timer with another one that I set to 0.2 seconds for 22 gauge galvanized steel.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Gerry@21:1/5 to muratlanne@gmail.com on Fri Oct 13 23:18:14 2023
    On Fri, 13 Oct 2023 20:09:49 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
    <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:



    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ug4hq7$1cjmf$1@dont-email.me...

    In my shop I run a 5HP Ingersol Rand 2 stage compressor. The first
    motor lasted just a little longer than the warranty, but until it let
    the magic smoke out it started the compressor every single time.

    --------------------------

    Here is a better controlled alternative to a mechanical unloader. It might >reduce the starting surge enough to make the motor last much longer. >https://tameson.com/pages/compressor-unloader-valves

    Their indirect valve operates like the water valves on a lawn sprinkler >system. It does the same thing as my manual cammed-open pressure relief >valve, lets the motor start without a load. A mechanical unloader releases >the air between the compressor head and the tank check valve when the >pressure sensing diaphragm in the control unit rises to shut off the motor, >but the head outlet pipe's volume is low and the unloader vent valve closes >when the diaphragm drops and pressure builds again on the first piston >upstroke. A timed unloader can vent the air until the motor reach full
    speed.

    I think you could add one in parallel with the mechanical unloader, the >compressor won't build pressure until both unloaders have stopped venting.

    Today at the ham radio flea market I picked up and examined a 1-10 second >time delay relay of the type I had used in industrial relay logic
    controllers in the 70's. The seller explained using it to time a solenoid >valve unloader on a compressor, which suggests he had seen it done. I was >just trying to remember if I already had one like it. I built a 240V >spotwelder timer with another one that I set to 0.2 seconds for 22 gauge >galvanized steel.


    My solution was to increase the volume of the line between the outlet
    of the compressor and the check valve at the inlet to the tank,
    providedof course, that this line is de-pressurized when the motor is
    awitched off.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sat Oct 14 06:53:40 2023
    "Gerry" wrote in message news:ho1kiihvrqktcle5poqdiad9p5862i5ir9@4ax.com...

    My solution was to increase the volume of the line between the outlet
    of the compressor and the check valve at the inlet to the tank,
    providedof course, that this line is de-pressurized when the motor is
    awitched off.

    --------------------

    I did that too, by adding a loop of Parker Push-Lok air hose that won't
    degrade from vibration as unsupported copper tubing might. My HF compressor pump has a built-in air cooler attached to the head, that adds some volume.

    I think the best approach is to capture and compare the motor starting surge with a digital storage scope and current clamp, both as-is and with the compressor outlet disconnected to simulate a timed unloader.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Mon Oct 16 11:32:23 2023
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ug6n6v$1v4l2$1@dont-email.me...

    Anybody have a soft start for dummies guide they can point me to that
    might be appropriate for this application?

    ---------------------------

    I've been investigating soft start options and mainly found $200-$300 commercial units and much cheaper DIY solutions that require knowledge, construction and test equipment. It seems the common requirement is reducing the air pump starting load so I posted what I found about that. Reducing the motor start current is a separate issue that might be solved or helped with
    an unloader.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Cydrome Leader@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Wed Oct 25 00:28:01 2023
    Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
    In my shop I run a 5HP Ingersol Rand 2 stage compressor. The first
    motor lasted just a little longer than the warranty, but until it let
    the magic smoke out it started the compressor every single time. I had
    an extended warranty so eventually when the service company got tired of lying to me and lying to the warranty company I eventually got a new
    motor. Not the same motor (thank goodness), but also not the same frame
    size motor.

    (In the interim I ran a cheap motor I bought on-line.)

    The interim motor would trip its thermal protector all the time. Drove
    me bonkers. The new motor I eventually got also trips its thermal
    protector, but not as often. The trip is just about always on startup.
    The unloader appears to be operating correctly.

    All of the motors are/were single phase induction motors with a great
    big pair of caps on them. (run and start caps) In my research into the original crappy motor from Ingersol Rand (reviews were insanely bad
    including claims of bursting into flame) a couple people recommended installing a soft start kit on the motor or any replacement motor.

    Anybody have a soft start for dummies guide they can point me to that
    might be appropriate for this application?

    I also considered a reduced pulley size to reduce load on the motor, but
    then the motor would run longer each time it cycled on. I don't know
    what the balance of heat build up would be from longer run, verses less
    load. Compressor duty motors are not intended to run continuously.

    I also considered a 3 phase motor with a VFD and a soft start programmed
    into the VFD, but 5HP 3 phase motors aren't cheap and neither are VFDs
    big enough to drive them on single phase.

    like everybody else says reduce the pulley. Your line voltage may also be
    too low. A three phase motor at 5hp should cost less than 1 single phase
    one as no other junk like starters or capacitors are needed. The do make
    soft starters for 3 phase motors at under $100. They mess with the power
    going to one phase, but it works. The starter coils on single phase motors
    draw a ton of power and could be the overheating cause if you're
    constantly starting and stopping that motor. 3 phase motors don't have
    this issue at all.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From whit3rd@21:1/5 to Clare Snyder on Wed Oct 25 01:16:19 2023
    On Wednesday, October 11, 2023 at 2:52:23 PM UTC-7, Clare Snyder wrote:
    On Wed, 11 Oct 2023 14:02:43 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfi...@gmail.invalid>
    wrote:
    On Wed, 11 Oct 2023 13:10:53 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <murat...@gmail.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    The best I have to capture current spikes on a scope is a Hantek Hall effect
    probe for DC and a Fluke current clamp for AC. They were fairly inexpensive
    and good enough for hobby use such as measuring refrigerator starting >>surges, to select a large enough inverter.
    ...
    My compressor motor was originally wired for 115 and it kicked out on start-up about hnalf the time when cold and about 10% of the time when
    warm. I switched it over to 230 and it hasn't had a single issue
    since. I even put a bigger pulley on it after converting to 230. My
    original motor was a repulsion start monster(with brishes) but the
    start switch went bad and parts were unobtanium so I switched to the cap-start

    This reminds me that motor startup is critically dependent on the AC wiring gage; that '230' conversion using similar gage wiring has less resistive power loss at any given load than the 120V connection, because the
    higher voltage uses less current. A long, not very heavy, wiring
    connection from the breaker box to the socket that motor plugs into, would
    have the overheats-at-start effect, even on a properly designed motor
    and compressor with working unloader.

    If you get overheating during starts, suspect the wall wiring.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)