I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message >news:kumrjihq1c41jpv1cabm39mlopg1n3ml7d@4ax.com...
I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good >cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -
--------------------------------
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5530
Argon or CO2 in the tank might minimize oxidation of the hot areas before >they are covered.
A small stainless steel gas tank:
https://tinyurl.com/bddvbzs2
On 10/28/2023 11:33 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good
cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -
Why not use aluminum ? easier to form and since you have TIG
capabilities ... I found that discarded late model GM truck aluminum
drive lines are just the right diameter for quite a few small projects ,
I'm using a section to build a ball mill for making black powder for >pyrotechnic projects .
I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -
Why not use aluminum ? easier to form and since you have TIG
capabilities ... I found that discarded late model GM truck aluminum
drive lines are just the right diameter for quite a few small projects ,
I'm using a section to build a ball mill for making black powder for pyrotechnic projects .
On 10/28/2023 9:33 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good
cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -
Will an old school motor cycle tank Kreem kit do the trick? I never
used one, but...
Like this https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313&_nkw=kreem+kit&_sacat=0
On 10/29/2023 6:07 AM, Snag wrote:
Why not use aluminum ? easier to form and since you have TIG
capabilities ... I found that discarded late model GM truck aluminum
drive lines are just the right diameter for quite a few small projects
, I'm using a section to build a ball mill for making black powder for
pyrotechnic projects .
No you got me wondering if I saved the drive line off the 2500 I
replaced or not...
I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat...
On Sun, 29 Oct 2023 08:07:10 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/28/2023 11:33 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
I am making a fuel tank for a reproduction Briggs and Stratton Motor
wheel. I intend to use 2 1 lb Coleman propane bottles, with the
bottoms cut off, tig welded together with a steel filler neck also tig
welded in. My problem is keeping the inside of the tank from rusting
and I came up with an idea - don't know how feezible it is.
I am thinking of putting some Oakley 95 tinning flux in the tank
after sandblasting it, and before finishing the weld then heating the
welded tank to about 700F and rotating it while maintaining heat to
totally flow the tinning flux over the entire surface. After cutting
out the opening in the filler neck I would tin the inside ofthe filler
then flush out any remaining flux - leaving the entire interior of the
tank tinned and protected from rust - basically like a terne coating.
1.7 oz of tinning paste is $12.99 mini CanaBucks
Can't think of a simpler lower cost source for a half gallon
cylindrical duel tank - although this isn't exactly a SIMPLE one. I
made a "prototype" brazing the tanks together and attempting first to
braze, then to solder a red brass /copper fitting in for a filler. Not
a neet job and not a liquid tight seel between the tank and filler -
and a LOT of rust in the tank 3 months later.
What am I missing???? any obvious "gottchas"? ( I WILL braze "bosses"
on the outside of the tank to drill and tap for the fuel fittings, and
braze or tig on the mounting brackets before doing the tinning so no
heating will be required after the tinning process )- then just a good
cleanup and paint with gasoline-proof paint. I learned years ago NOT
to use spray Tremclad on fuel tanks - - - -
Why not use aluminum ? easier to form and since you have TIG
capabilities ... I found that discarded late model GM truck aluminum
drive lines are just the right diameter for quite a few small projects , >I'm using a section to build a ball mill for making black powder for >pyrotechnic projects .
Aluminum is an option but the "domed" ends of the tank come ready
made on the propane tanks and I would need to come up with the proper aluminum filler neck - not impossible - but I'd need to source a 1 1/2
inch aluminum pipe nipple and I've got the steel one all made
already - along with the brass cap and the mounting brackets for the 3
7/8 inch diameter tank along with the steel weld-on studs to mount it
to the brackets. In other words steel will be a WHOLE LOT simpler.
My experience with POR in the past was it did NOT like ethanol fuel. Apparently it has been reformulated for stage II fuels?? I'd only need
about an ounce - - - so it's an option - but I like the idea of the
"tinned" tank - - -
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