I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place before
my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've abused
it the last few days harvesting firewood .
 I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was hoping
to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks promising
so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make things a bit more lively
too .
On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:
  I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
  I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .
I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only or front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI: I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for towing torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:vfegut$2qjfr$1@dont-email.me...
...The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
Snag
---------------------------
On my Honda lock lack was a symptom of a thermostat that wasn't fully
closing and let the engine run cooler in the morning than a temperature switch trip point. The torque converter locked around noon after
climbing a hill.
Since I once built production test stations for engine controls I had
read the section of my factory shop manual that explained that and immediately realized what was happening.
The separate engine and emissions control manual for my 1991 Ford Ranger
is 4" thick.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/374507462127
I needed it to diagnose an intermittent problem with ignition dwell time.
jsw
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:vfg0iq$35k3b$1@dont-email.me...
 The only control on this one is a vacuum switch . It can be tested
with a vacuum pump and a volt/ohm meter - if I knew which wire went
where . I haven't done much tuning , I was waiting until I had the drive train in it's final configuration .
Snag
----------------------------------
In case you or some other reader doesn't know it, intake manifold vacuum
is an easily accessible indication of the combined accelerator/throttle position and the load on the engine. It's high when cruising at a light
load that allows more distributor spark advance without knocking and
torque converter lockup.
https://help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05127/en-us
"Under a light load and part throttle conditions, timing can be
advanced. This improves throttle response and makes the engine more efficient. It also helps the engine run cooler. The vacuum advance
provides this benefit BEFORE the Mechanical Advance provides Total Timing."
I've been in the GM lab with the "flow bench" for testing carburetors
but didn't have a chance to learn about it, the machine I had built and
was setting up simulated faults in the 12V power supply to a fuel
injection computer.
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:vfg75j$36oul$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/25/2024 7:38 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
 I've got an Edelbrock 1405 on it , can't justify the cost of an aftermarket injection setup . Ignition timing is one area that I intend
to work on . I have an Accel HiPo distributor on it . My performance guy thinks that I need to dial in more than 8° initial advance , and there
are adjustments on the dist for how fast the vacuum advance comes in .
This will never be a "fire breathing monster" , but I do hope to get a
little smoke from the rear tires ...
Snag
----------------------
That company folded in the late 70's and I moved on to higher tech, so I don't know much about later engine control developments beyond what's in
the shop manuals for my own 1991 and 2000 vehicles.
On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:
I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place before
my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've abused
it the last few days harvesting firewood .
I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was hoping
to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks promising
so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to replace . This is
going to be interesting , my first experience with a limited slip diff .
Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make things a bit more lively
too .
I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking >differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which >performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only or >front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff.
Can't speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI: I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for towing >torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
On 10/24/2024 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:
I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .
I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
its the real deal for street racing.
FYI: I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only
have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.
I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas >mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
"Clare Snyder"Â wrote in message news:g12ohjt801lb7phvn7c047l5jvegsiu8ee@4ax.com...
My '96Ranger 4 liter 5 speed was my first "limited slip" vehicle.
SZtill have it at 392000km and still love it - but the first thing
that caught my attention was that when you got the rear wheels
spinning is you lost your "rudder". The non-spinner with an open rear
end keeps the vehicle going more or less in a straight line. When both
are spinning the rear end pretty much goes wherever it wants!!!... ------------------------------
The same happens to my 91 Ranger's light rear end on ice even without
limited slip. Dirt (and ice) biking gave me the instinctive reflexes to
stay in control with the rear wheels flopping around. Ice on the road
isn't limited to storms, melt water from snow banks freezes when the sun
goes down.
We slid long oak 6x6 timbers from my sawmill under it and
hoisted it with my tripods...
On 10/25/2024 2:51 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Clare Snyder" wrote in messagePickup trucks in general (and some cars) are notoriously bad in dirt,
news:g12ohjt801lb7phvn7c047l5jvegsiu8ee@4ax.com...
My '96Ranger 4 liter 5 speed was my first "limited slip" vehicle.
SZtill have it at 392000km and still love it - but the first thing
that caught my attention was that when you got the rear wheels
spinning is you lost your "rudder". The non-spinner with an open rear
end keeps the vehicle going more or less in a straight line. When both
are spinning the rear end pretty much goes wherever it wants!!!...
------------------------------
The same happens to my 91 Ranger's light rear end on ice even without
limited slip. Dirt (and ice) biking gave me the instinctive reflexes to
stay in control with the rear wheels flopping around. Ice on the road
isn't limited to storms, melt water from snow banks freezes when the sun
goes down.
sand, or maybe slippery stuff due to the lack of weight on the rear
axle. The addition of as little as a couple hundred pounds over the
axle makes a huge difference. I know this first hand. My station wagon
was better in the sand (with similar size tires) than most empty pickup >trucks. My first car was a very light 67 Ford Cortina (English Ford),
It was intended as a "dune buggy" by a previous owner who installed 60s
on the front and 50s on the rear. It was terrible until I dropped a
couple bags of concrete in the trunk. It didn't magically turn it into
a dune buggy, but it was pretty good after that.
Crew cabs tend to have better weight distribution, but that is offset by >increased overall weight. Add some decent width tires and they aren't
to bad in the sand.
--My little Ranger has a fiberglass cap, plastic bed liner and heavy
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
On Thu, 24 Oct 2024 17:15:56 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/24/2024 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:
  I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've >>>> abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
  I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a >>>> limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .
I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only or >>> front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't >>> speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but >>> its the real deal for street racing.
FYI:Â I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for towing >>> torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine >>> with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only >>> have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.
I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.
On 10/25/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
On Thu, 24 Oct 2024 17:15:56 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/24/2024 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:
I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've >>>>> abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a >>>>> limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
things a bit more lively too .
I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking >>>> differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only or >>>> front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't >>>> speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but >>>> its the real deal for street racing.
FYI: I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to >>>> around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for towing >>>> torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine >>>> with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only >>>> have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.
I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted >>> the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves >>> 2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.
Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by >engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .
On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 14:27:15 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/25/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
On Thu, 24 Oct 2024 17:15:56 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/24/2024 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:
  I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place >>>>>> before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've >>>>>> abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
  I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was >>>>>> hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks >>>>>> promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a >>>>>> limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make >>>>>> things a bit more lively too .
I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking >>>>> differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which >>>>> performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only or >>>>> front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't >>>>> speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but >>>>> its the real deal for street racing.
FYI: I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to >>>>> around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine >>>>> with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only >>>>> have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.
I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted >>>> the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems >>>> to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves >>>> 2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is >>>> torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas >>>> mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.
Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by
engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .
and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
governor pressure. The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
well as transparent engagement and cold operation.
On 10/26/2024 9:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:early 400 R4 setup uses vac switch and brake light switch external to
On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 14:27:15 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/25/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
On Thu, 24 Oct 2024 17:15:56 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/24/2024 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:
I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place >>>>>>> before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've >>>>>>> abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was >>>>>>> hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks >>>>>>> promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to >>>>>>> replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a >>>>>>> limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make >>>>>>> things a bit more lively too .
I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking >>>>>> differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which >>>>>> performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only or >>>>>> front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't >>>>>> speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but >>>>>> its the real deal for street racing.
FYI: I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to >>>>>> around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for towing >>>>>> torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine >>>>>> with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only >>>>>> have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.
I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted >>>>> the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems >>>>> to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves >>>>> 2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is >>>>> torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some >>>>> testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas >>>>> mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other >>>> input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually >>>> works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and >>>> the basic programming involved.
Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by
engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .
and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
governor pressure. The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
well as transparent engagement and cold operation.
This is a 700R4 ... I'll have to check the vacuum system diagrams to
see what the original setup was , there may have been a thermo switch in >there somewhere . Lockup will be more important for trips should I use
the truck . Around here in the "mountains" of the southern Ozarks it's
not likely to be locked up all that much - but I do want it functional .
On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 14:27:15 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:Your transmission MAY also have a temperature switch inside which
On 10/25/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
On Thu, 24 Oct 2024 17:15:56 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/24/2024 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:
I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've >>>>>> abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was >>>>>> hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks >>>>>> promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a >>>>>> limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make >>>>>> things a bit more lively too .
I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking >>>>> differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which >>>>> performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only or >>>>> front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't >>>>> speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but >>>>> its the real deal for street racing.
FYI: I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to >>>>> around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for towing >>>>> torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine >>>>> with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only >>>>> have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.
I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted >>>> the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems >>>> to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves >>>> 2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is >>>> torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas >>>> mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
the basic programming involved.
Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by >>engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do >>know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .
and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
governor pressure. The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
well as transparent engagement and cold operation.
On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 22:17:18 -0400, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
wrote:
On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 14:27:15 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:Your transmission MAY also have a temperature switch inside which
On 10/25/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
On Thu, 24 Oct 2024 17:15:56 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/24/2024 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:
  I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place >>>>>>> before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've >>>>>>> abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
  I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was >>>>>>> hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks >>>>>>> promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to >>>>>>> replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a >>>>>>> limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make >>>>>>> things a bit more lively too .
I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking >>>>>> differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which >>>>>> performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only or
front and rear.
The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't >>>>>> speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.
Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but >>>>>> its the real deal for street racing.
FYI: I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to >>>>>> around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for towing
torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine >>>>>> with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only >>>>>> have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
backup... er tow vehicle that is.
I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted >>>>> the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems >>>>> to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves >>>>> 2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is >>>>> torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some >>>>> testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas >>>>> mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other >>>> input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually >>>> works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and >>>> the basic programming involved.
Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by
engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .
and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
governor pressure. The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
well as transparent engagement and cold operation.
will prevent lockup on a colt transmission - and if defective COULD
prevent lockup - perios. SOME 700R4 traanys ahve the switch, some
don't. SOME have the 3/4 switch, some do not. Only way to know is to
drop the pan. Also, some have one wire (self grounded) solenoid,
others have 2 wire. One wire solenoid USUALLY has external 4th gear
pressure switch and will require a relay to enable it or you risk
cooking the switch (if it is not a heavy enough switch)
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:vfmm48$lo8n$1@dont-email.me...
 I'll check with the guy that built it this week . It's possible that
the rebuilt converter he supplied doesn't have lockup , I understand
that some don't but that may be an aftermarket thing
Snag
-------------------------------------- https://gearstar.com/what-is-lockup-torque-converter
A torque converter is like one fan blowing on another fan to transfer rotation while allowing slippage without wear, though it wastes energy
as heat. The lockup is a clutch that connects the two fans (turbines) together when conditions allow. The indication of lockup is the tach
needle moving in sync with the speedo needle instead of jumping when you change gas pedal pressure.
https://fitzequipment.net/how-to-test-a-torque-converter/
In Drive with the brakes locked full throttle engine RPM should be
around 2000 unless you have the actual specs.
Torque converters developed the simpler fluid couplings of the late
1930's and were highly improved for WW2 airplane engine superchargers,
to isolate crankshaft power stroke vibrations from the high flywheel
inertia of the compressor rotor.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydramatic
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:vfokj8$143r4$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/28/2024 7:08 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
https://gearstar.com/what-is-lockup-torque-converter
 Ummmm Jim ...
 I found out today that basically all OE TC's that fit 700R4 trannies
are capable of lockup . I also learned that the tick coming from mine is
most likely to be internal since there are no loose or too long bolts in there . And with the flywheel cover off it is a lot LOUDER . As I said
I'll be talking to the shop that built the trans later this week . I
know for sure it ain't lockin' up because the tach needle tracks with throttle instead of with speedo . ...
Snag
----------------------------------
I post this stuff because I've been searching discussion groups for information and finding mainly scattered snippets directed at the
questioner that don't help explain the big picture I'm looking for.
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