"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sujfo9$1iau$1@gioia.aioe.org... ... Was there a point to this post... well maybe that many "keyless" chucks aren't really keyless. Even good ones. Other than that this was just a ramble of random experience acquired over a few years which may contain
a nugget or two. Maybe also that generally with my limited experiences
the integral shank keyless chucks seem to work better than those that
mount on a Jacobs taper.
----------------------------
How would you compare them to ball bearing Jacobs chucks?
On 2/17/2022 4:44 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sujfo9$1iau$1@gioia.aioe.org... ...
Was there a point to this post... well maybe that many "keyless" chucks
aren't really keyless. Even good ones. Other than that this was just a
ramble of random experience acquired over a few years which may contain
a nugget or two. Maybe also that generally with my limited experiences
the integral shank keyless chucks seem to work better than those that
mount on a Jacobs taper.
----------------------------
How would you compare them to ball bearing Jacobs chucks?
I don't know. Send me one and I'll let you know.
On 2/17/2022 4:44 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:sujfo9$1iau$1@gioia.aioe.org... ... >> Was there a point to this post... well maybe that many "keyless"
chucks aren't really keyless. Even good ones. Other than that this
was just a ramble of random experience acquired over a few years which
may contain a nugget or two. Maybe also that generally with my
limited experiences the integral shank keyless chucks seem to work
better than those that mount on a Jacobs taper.
----------------------------
How would you compare them to ball bearing Jacobs chucks?
I don't know. Send me one and I'll let you know.
On 2/17/2022 1:52 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/17/2022 4:44 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sujfo9$1iau$1...@gioia.aioe.org... ...
Was there a point to this post... well maybe that many "keyless"
chucks aren't really keyless. Even good ones. Other than that this
was just a ramble of random experience acquired over a few years which
may contain a nugget or two. Maybe also that generally with my
limited experiences the integral shank keyless chucks seem to work
better than those that mount on a Jacobs taper.
----------------------------
How would you compare them to ball bearing Jacobs chucks?
I don't know. Send me one and I'll let you know.
Seriously though I don't know. I have a couple Jacobs chucks, but no
high dollar ball bearing chucks. The Jacobs feel nice, but other than
being a little cleaner built than "some" of the import chucks I have
they are not inherently better by design.
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When working on a ladder hex shank bits are less liable to be dropped
into the grass or bushes. I usually climb with both hands free and then
haul my tools up in a bucket, in which small loose items are hard to
find under the larger stuff. HF sells a 1/16" - 1/2" hex shank drill set
in a clearly labeled case. Even if the bits are junk I would have bought
it for the case, which I hadn't found elsewhere.
When working on a ladder hex shank bits are less liable to be dropped into the grass or bushes. I usually climb with both hands free and then haul my tools up in a bucket, in which small loose items are hard to find under
the larger stuff. HF sells a 1/16" - 1/2" hex shank drill set in a clearly labeled case. Even if the bits are junk I would have bought it for the
case, which I hadn't found elsewhere.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:t007d0$a0k$1@dont-email.me...
On 3/5/2022 5:55 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
When working on a ladder hex shank bits are less liable to be dropped
into the grass or bushes. I usually climb with both hands free and
then haul my tools up in a bucket, in which small loose items are hard
to find under the larger stuff. HF sells a 1/16" - 1/2" hex shank
drill set in a clearly labeled case. Even if the bits are junk I would
have bought it for the case, which I hadn't found elsewhere.
I used bucket bag organizers for a couple decades as an installer/contractor. I kept a clip on drill holster and mini clip on
tool pouch in the bucket bag. It didn't always save me from having to
run up and down the ladder, but it saved me thousands of trips back to
the truck. As an installer I twisted off more drills than I had slip. Always carried Makita and Milwaukee drill motors and rotary hammers.
(hammer drills too)Â Its a little annoying when I have to go back to the truck for another 6 foot installer bit because they last one caught a
nail in a firebreak and its now stuck permanently inside the wall
twisted off just short enough I can't get the drill chuck back on it. I hardly ever hauled the whole bucket up the ladder for regular work. Of course doing work on the roof I hauled lots of things up. I love
parapet walls for hiding conduit.
------------------------
If I did the same job repeatedly I'd have it sorted out and know which
of my many tool belts and pouch bags to use, but each problem is new or
a better way to solve an old one. My last ladder job was installing
gutters for an elderly neighbor, using a mix of unmatched parts that
were all we could find at HD, Lowe's and the local hardware store. We
had to figure out something different at each step and I kept going back
home for another tool.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:t02u9p$u39$1@dont-email.me...
Fortunately I kept a well stocked service truck. For service and repair work I rarely had to go back to the office for parts or tools. For new installations since I was the one who sold tthe job I pretty much always
had all the materials on hand before I started. Home Depot is not a
real hardware store. Lowes tends to be slightly worse. Unfortunately there don't seem to be any real hardware stores left around here. A few independent franchise stores are left, but they look more like miniature
home improvement stores than real hardware stores these days.
Usually for service work I would think about the job on the way, by the
time I got there I knew what tools and materials to load the bucket with besides the standard stuff that never came out of the bucket. ------------------------
I was never fortunate enough to work for someone as well organized as
you. Often I was sent out blind, on the assumption I'd figure out the
problem and a solution when I got there. When my neighbor has a problem
I can't fix, like his cable or gas heat, the service man is usually sent
out that way too.
I wish I had a photo of me in my wizard costume repairing a 2-way radio
in the medieval setting of a Renaissance fair.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:t03krs$91a$1@dont-email.me...
...
Anyway, time is money.
-----------------------
Speaking of which, do you make molds for rubber or plastic antique car
or machinery restoration parts, like electrical insulators or hydraulic seals?
The only such mold I've made was for the rubber hammer button on a
Teletype.
I discovered when rebuilding some leaky porta power clone cylinders that
the seals were non-cataloged specials, which I was told is the norm for
Asian imports. I was able to modify the pistons to accept standard sized seals.
"Richard Smith"Â wrote in message news:lypmmy5k75.fsf@void.com...
Loving your chat, Jim and Bob.
From here at "Leigh Quay Boat Services". Never got anywhere near that level of organisation when working on the "GSVenus".
------------------
I've rarely seen effective organization. More often the place was run
like an art colony, everyone doing their own thing with minimal
interference. For engineers that's paradise but it's not a good omen for
the company's survival.
I think the best managers I've seen were theatre directors whose task is
to coax maximum effort from their tiring actors for 12-14 hours a day.
After the set I built was in place on stage I'd sit with them to watch
for and correct problems, and observe their methods.
The musical "A Chorus Line" demonstrates this, with the director being tactful and persuasive and his assistant being very strict and
demanding, the Good Cop/Bad Cop approach. In "42nd Street" the director
takes both approaches as needed. Your 2019 British film of it with Tom Lister, Clare Halse and Emma Caffrey is excellent.
Dean Kamen had an arrangement with Segway to not steal their employees
to Deka, so I was disqualified from working for him.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:t059ju$1di1$1@gioia.aioe.org...
There are a fair number of urethane and silicone rubber and hard
"casting" resins that may be a better choice for one off or very small production of various replacement parts than having a custom mold made
one off. They can't replace all commercial parts, but they can handle many. The key (and often the hard part) to making cast molds to make
cast parts is often the need for a quality master to start from. I have done a little of that kind of work, but its not really in my commercial skills.
Primarily I machine aluminum low pressure injection molds and casting
molds for soft plastic fishing lures and cast lead fishing lures. I've
done a few high pressure embossing dies in medium hard steels, and
recently I picked up a customer who does small production run hard
plastic (polypropylene) injection for toys and toy accessories. I've
done some molds that were used for silicone injection, but I'm not
familiar with the exact process the customer used for their parts.
Since picking up the toy mold jobs I've started working on hard plastic injection molds for two part hard fishing lures using ABS and polycarbonate. I've got a tiny lever operated injection machine (1.1
cubic inches), but I suspect I'll need something with a little more
tonnage for the surface area of some parts I want to make.
I could maybe help with some of your problems, but the cost would
probably be out of your budget. You might want to atleast learn
something of making molds and parts from fluid resins and fluid media
before deciding if its worth hiring out the kind of work I do. One of
the big issues here is viscosity and trapped air. Also, working time
can be quite short. There are generally two ways people deal with
trapped air. Pressure and vacuum. The most common thing used by garage shop guys is a pressure or vacuum pot about the size of a large paint bucket. Pressure seems to be favored by some because vacuum can be
quite messy as the air bubbles out of your resin.
There are a number of videos on YouTube of people making parts this way.
 Many are hack jobs, but you can still learn from them. The guy with
the talking sock puppet annoys the heck out of me, but he has spent some
time doing this sort of part making. I seem to recall that you do not
have high speed Internet. Your local public library may have a computer area you can use, or you can take your laptop (if it has appropriate
security software installed) over to a coffee shop during one of their
slower times of day. After you have a firm grasp of basic processes
then its time to contact some manufacturers and see about product
properties for your application.
If you have a parts that "needs" to be a heat vulcanized rubber then its probably out of the reach of basic garage shop work. I think other
resins will fill most needs though.
----------------
I now have a 10GB per month cellular Internet service.
"...vacuum can be quite messy as the air bubbles out of your resin."
Oh, I know. I spent an afternoon chipping epoxy spills out of my
second-hand vacuum oven. Replacing the electrical feedthru with a solid
pipe plug cured its leak and the door gasket is still good.
Typically the old brittle parts I want to replace are round, like
grommets and connector boots, amenable to semi-precision lathe work. I'm considering two opposed pistons in an open tube such as a drum brake
wheel cylinder, optionally with vacuum connected to the fluid port. The rubber or plastic could be a slug of correct weight or volume that will
be compressed hot into final shape between the piston mold halves.
Sliding the cylinder would move the port clear of the part, avoiding a
sprue. After the mold cools the pistons and part can be pressed out one
end and separated. I think that will bypass the complexity of DIY
injection molding.
Can you suggest a suitable rubber compound from experience? I can't find
my Durometer to check a sample. Car radiator hose is about the right hardness, maybe around 50.
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