On 3/16/2022 3:48 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Greetings
I have a small bench top rolling mill. Works fin as long as I
don't over do it.
But, the rollers are flat. I'd like to put a custom pattern (or
two) on thin brass / copper stock which will require something.
Option A is to punch the pattern into a piece of flat steel and
roll it through. Not a bad idea, but kind of limited to lengths of
out put. (Some of this will be for decorating wooden boxes).
Plan B would be to put the pattern into a roller so I can just
crank out as many feet as I have material. "It will all get used
sometime."
The issue for custom rollers is of course, what is the best grade
of steel for the rollers, and heat treating it after engraving. (Hmmm
'I just had an idea forming in my brain...')
The rollers are going to be about 2 to 3 inches long and about
"this" diameter. (I really should unpack it and see what the actual
sizes are...)
Now, where I'm going to find the machine to do this is a complete
second question.
tschus
pyotr
Realistically you have two choices. A CNC 4th axis mill, or hand
engrave it. You might be able to do simple knurl patterns with a lathe,
but I don't think that's really what you are looking for.
I am sure somebody has better options, but my hammer is a CNC mill with
a 4th axis rotab and center. Your job looks like a nail to me.
I expect OD need not be exact since your machine has to be adjustable.
You would just need to get it in the right range.
As to metal choice. The best option would be a good tough tool steel
for longest life. S7 maybe, but 4140 HT (RC30(+/-)ish) would last a
while for softer metal rolling, and it can be hardened and tempered in
the RC50+ range. It would last a modestly long while, and its easier to work with in my opinion than some of the really tough tool steels.
Of course if you are trying to roll form a hard metal all bets are off.
Greetings
I have a small bench top rolling mill. Works fin as long as I
don't over do it.
But, the rollers are flat. I'd like to put a custom pattern (or
two) on thin brass / copper stock which will require something.
Option A is to punch the pattern into a piece of flat steel and
roll it through. Not a bad idea, but kind of limited to lengths of
out put. (Some of this will be for decorating wooden boxes).
Plan B would be to put the pattern into a roller so I can just
crank out as many feet as I have material. "It will all get used
sometime."
The issue for custom rollers is of course, what is the best grade
of steel for the rollers, and heat treating it after engraving. (Hmmm
'I just had an idea forming in my brain...')
The rollers are going to be about 2 to 3 inches long and about
"this" diameter. (I really should unpack it and see what the actual
sizes are...)
Now, where I'm going to find the machine to do this is a complete second question.
tschus
pyotr
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t0u17n$e3l$1@dont-email.me...
4140 HT (RC30(+/-)ish) would last a
while for softer metal rolling, and it can be hardened and tempered in
the RC50+ range. It would last a modestly long while, and its easier to work with in my opinion than some of the really tough tool steels.
---------------------
4140 HT is easy enough to machine with HSS.
Do you have hands-on
experience hardening and tempering it?
One night in TIG class I got frustrated with burn-through and took to
piling up beads as sculpture and text. It worked better than I expected
and with a little practice I could make smooth rounded raised lines.
Someone with more artistic skill might be able to create raised rolling
dies that way. I think the edges could be refined with a curved riffling
file with a safe edge ground on the bottom.
Your customer Keith Snyder says hi.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t0u17n$e3l$1@dont-email.me...
4140 HT is easy enough to machine with HSS.
Do you have hands-on experience hardening and tempering it?
One night in TIG class I got frustrated with burn-through and took to
piling up beads as sculpture and text. It worked better than I expected
and with a little practice I could make smooth rounded raised lines.
Someone with more artistic skill might be able to create raised rolling
dies that way. I think the edges could be refined with a curved riffling
file with a safe edge ground on the bottom.
Your customer Keith Snyder says hi.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t0u8t5$v5n$1@dont-email.me...
On 3/16/2022 6:50 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t0u17n$e3l$1@dont-email.me...
4140 HT is easy enough to machine with HSS.
I quit using HSS except when I need a tool I can't buy or make out of carbide. I recently made a flexure out of 4140HT tool (I have a lot of
it left over from a job) to hold a insert type parting blade. I fought
with it for a while with some HSS tooling, and then I said screw this
SHIT (yes I said SHIT in all caps, picked up an Altin Coated carbide
mill and just ripped through it with a great finish. I was almost
maxing out the power feed and still getting a great finish. Same thing
on the lathe. If I don't have a carbide tool the right geometry I make one. Everything cuts better.
-----------------------
I can mill with carbide but it chips too easily on my worn 1965 lathe,
and I can't resharpen it on my surface grinder as easily as HSS. HSS is
still practical for one-off jobs on small manual machine tools, i.e home hobby shops. When I suggest HSS I imply that I've found it an acceptable minimum to cut steel of some hardness, not that it's better than
carbide. I make cutters from hardened tool steel too, but the difficulty
of correctly tempering it and low allowable cutting rate mean I don't
usually suggest it.
-----------------------
Your customer Keith Snyder says hi.
-----------------------
In southern NH. I may have mis-remembered the last name. He spoke very
highly of your fishing lure molds but said the soft rubber compound he
uses wouldn't do what I want. He works in a small hardware store that survived because it carries odd stuff the big boxes don't. -----------------------
On 3/16/2022 3:48 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Greetings
I have a small bench top rolling mill. Works fin as long as I
don't over do it.
But, the rollers are flat. I'd like to put a custom pattern (or
two) on thin brass / copper stock which will require something.
Option A is to punch the pattern into a piece of flat steel and
roll it through. Not a bad idea, but kind of limited to lengths of
out put. (Some of this will be for decorating wooden boxes).
Plan B would be to put the pattern into a roller so I can just
crank out as many feet as I have material. "It will all get used
sometime."
The issue for custom rollers is of course, what is the best grade
of steel for the rollers, and heat treating it after engraving. (Hmmm
'I just had an idea forming in my brain...')
The rollers are going to be about 2 to 3 inches long and about
"this" diameter. (I really should unpack it and see what the actual
sizes are...)
Now, where I'm going to find the machine to do this is a complete
second question.
tschus
pyotr
Realistically you have two choices. A CNC 4th axis mill, or hand
engrave it. You might be able to do simple knurl patterns with a lathe,
but I don't think that's really what you are looking for.
I am sure somebody has better options, but my hammer is a CNC mill with
a 4th axis rotab and center. Your job looks like a nail to me.
I expect OD need not be exact since your machine has to be adjustable.
You would just need to get it in the right range.
As to metal choice. The best option would be a good tough tool steel
for longest life. S7 maybe, but 4140 HT (RC30(+/-)ish) would last a
while for softer metal rolling, and it can be hardened and tempered in
the RC50+ range. It would last a modestly long while, and its easier to
work with in my opinion than some of the really tough tool steels.
Of course if you are trying to roll form a hard metal all bets are off.
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> on Wed, 16 Mar 2022 18:00:39 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 3/16/2022 3:48 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Greetings
I have a small bench top rolling mill. Works fin as long as I
don't over do it.
But, the rollers are flat. I'd like to put a custom pattern (or
two) on thin brass / copper stock which will require something.
Option A is to punch the pattern into a piece of flat steel and
roll it through. Not a bad idea, but kind of limited to lengths of
out put. (Some of this will be for decorating wooden boxes).
Plan B would be to put the pattern into a roller so I can just
crank out as many feet as I have material. "It will all get used
sometime."
The issue for custom rollers is of course, what is the best grade
of steel for the rollers, and heat treating it after engraving. (Hmmm
'I just had an idea forming in my brain...')
The rollers are going to be about 2 to 3 inches long and about
"this" diameter. (I really should unpack it and see what the actual
sizes are...)
Now, where I'm going to find the machine to do this is a complete
second question.
tschus
pyotr
Realistically you have two choices. A CNC 4th axis mill, or hand
engrave it. You might be able to do simple knurl patterns with a lathe,
but I don't think that's really what you are looking for.
I am sure somebody has better options, but my hammer is a CNC mill with
a 4th axis rotab and center. Your job looks like a nail to me.
I expect OD need not be exact since your machine has to be adjustable.
You would just need to get it in the right range.
As to metal choice. The best option would be a good tough tool steel
for longest life. S7 maybe, but 4140 HT (RC30(+/-)ish) would last a
while for softer metal rolling, and it can be hardened and tempered in
the RC50+ range. It would last a modestly long while, and its easier to
work with in my opinion than some of the really tough tool steels.
Of course if you are trying to roll form a hard metal all bets are off.
Brass, copper, aluminum
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> on Wed, 16 Mar 2022 18:03:05 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 3/16/2022 6:00 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/16/2022 3:48 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Greetings
I have a small bench top rolling mill. Works fin as long as I >>>> don't over do it.
But, the rollers are flat. I'd like to put a custom pattern (or >>>> two) on thin brass / copper stock which will require something.
Option A is to punch the pattern into a piece of flat steel and >>>> roll it through. Not a bad idea, but kind of limited to lengths of
out put. (Some of this will be for decorating wooden boxes).
Plan B would be to put the pattern into a roller so I can just >>>> crank out as many feet as I have material. "It will all get used
sometime."
The issue for custom rollers is of course, what is the best grade >>>> of steel for the rollers, and heat treating it after engraving. (Hmmm
'I just had an idea forming in my brain...')
The rollers are going to be about 2 to 3 inches long and about >>>> "this" diameter. (I really should unpack it and see what the actual
sizes are...)
Now, where I'm going to find the machine to do this is a complete >>>> second question.
tschus
pyotr
Realistically you have two choices. A CNC 4th axis mill, or hand
engrave it. You might be able to do simple knurl patterns with a lathe, >>> but I don't think that's really what you are looking for.
I am sure somebody has better options, but my hammer is a CNC mill with
a 4th axis rotab and center. Your job looks like a nail to me.
I expect OD need not be exact since your machine has to be adjustable.
You would just need to get it in the right range.
As to metal choice. The best option would be a good tough tool steel
for longest life. S7 maybe, but 4140 HT (RC30(+/-)ish) would last a
while for softer metal rolling, and it can be hardened and tempered in
the RC50+ range. It would last a modestly long while, and its easier to >>> work with in my opinion than some of the really tough tool steels.
Of course if you are trying to roll form a hard metal all bets are off.
Did you ask this in another group? Facebook? Home Shop Machinist?
I could have sworn I saw nearly this same question somewhere else very
recently.
Nope, but I wouldn't be surprise.
I have talked with a friend who would like a custom roller for
silver work.
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:t10a72$6g8$1@dont-email.me...
"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message >news:9u373hds88laikocho6u0apmtnacv10mff@4ax.com...
I doubt I could set that up in the apartment though. Bummer. >-----------------
You could learn the old low-tech methods. >https://www.worldhistory.org/article/846/cylinder-seals-in-ancient-mesopotamia---their-hist/
https://www.ottofrei.com/GRS-044-504-C-Max-Burin-Graver-Handle-Kit
-----------------------------------
https://www.ganoksin.com/article/costs-learning-hand-engraving/
My first untutored silversmithing project, in an Army craft shop in >Heidelberg, was a hollow silver ball pierced with filed patterns. I had >enough general metalworking experience that it wasn't difficult to figure
out how.
http://www.thehomesteadcraftsman.com/2017/02/hammer-and-chisel-engraving-traditional.html
The ball that the vise mounts on isn't hard to turn on a lathe if you don't >need it perfectly smooth. I made some from cast iron dumbbells by writing a >spreadsheet that calculated the sphere's X and Y coordinates (X^2 + Y^2 = >R^2) and having it print tables of them with decreasing radius and step >sizes, which I followed on the lathe, repeating until the steps were small >enough to file. Decreasing the radius fixes undercutting errors. I worked >quickly and rather crudely on the large roughing steps and took more care as >they approached a smooth sphere. They are ball and socket pivots for a
hoist frame that helped move a 2100 Lb log onto my sawmill last year.
I used the same method this afternoon to make a tapered bushing.
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> on Thu, 17 Mar 2022 17:53:52 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 3/17/2022 12:47 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> on Wed, 16 Mar 2022 18:00:39 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 3/16/2022 3:48 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:Brass, copper, aluminum
Greetings
I have a small bench top rolling mill. Works fin as long as I
don't over do it.
But, the rollers are flat. I'd like to put a custom pattern (or
two) on thin brass / copper stock which will require something.
Option A is to punch the pattern into a piece of flat steel and
roll it through. Not a bad idea, but kind of limited to lengths of
out put. (Some of this will be for decorating wooden boxes).
Plan B would be to put the pattern into a roller so I can just
crank out as many feet as I have material. "It will all get used
sometime."
The issue for custom rollers is of course, what is the best grade
of steel for the rollers, and heat treating it after engraving. (Hmmm >>>>> 'I just had an idea forming in my brain...')
The rollers are going to be about 2 to 3 inches long and about
"this" diameter. (I really should unpack it and see what the actual >>>>> sizes are...)
Now, where I'm going to find the machine to do this is a complete
second question.
tschus
pyotr
Realistically you have two choices. A CNC 4th axis mill, or hand
engrave it. You might be able to do simple knurl patterns with a lathe, >>>> but I don't think that's really what you are looking for.
I am sure somebody has better options, but my hammer is a CNC mill with >>>> a 4th axis rotab and center. Your job looks like a nail to me.
I expect OD need not be exact since your machine has to be adjustable. >>>> You would just need to get it in the right range.
As to metal choice. The best option would be a good tough tool steel
for longest life. S7 maybe, but 4140 HT (RC30(+/-)ish) would last a
while for softer metal rolling, and it can be hardened and tempered in >>>> the RC50+ range. It would last a modestly long while, and its easier to >>>> work with in my opinion than some of the really tough tool steels.
Of course if you are trying to roll form a hard metal all bets are off. >>>
if the pieces are not large it might also be practical to use a straight
press with flat embossing die as opposed to a roller.
Hmmm ... "But I have a Roller!"
I have considered 'engraving' a flat plate and using that. Which
still leaves me with the issue of making the pattern on the flat
plate. I've also thought about using a flat plate in a "tracer" set
up, but that is way more complicated. Than what? dunno, but I'm sure
it is.
I am reminded of a computer program I wrote decades ago. Took
about 3 weeks (and a quarter's computer time). It probably would have
taken me less time to run the calculations by hand, but I now have
(had) a program to run those numbers anytime I wanted.
Same here: making the pattern, how ever I do it, will probably
take longer than if I just do it by hand. OTOH, I can literally crank
out feet of the fancy banding once done.
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> on Thu, 17 Mar 2022 17:51:55 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 3/17/2022 12:47 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:Snip
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> on Wed, 16 Mar 2022 18:03:05 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 3/16/2022 6:00 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/16/2022 3:48 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Greetings
Did you ask this in another group? Facebook? Home Shop Machinist?
I could have sworn I saw nearly this same question somewhere else very >>>> recently.
Nope, but I wouldn't be surprise.
I have talked with a friend who would like a custom roller for
silver work.
The first thing I might do is ask the manufacturer of the roller if they
have any embossing die rollers available. I might search for groups
where others might have the same or similar roller.
An idea too. However ... both of us are looking for a pattern we
can't find. And I'm not sure what make and model this little mill is.
Ya reckon maybe if I unpack it, that would help?
I think there are two approaches I might consider.
One is a single roller for embossing your detail, and a second roller
made of a hard rubber or foam that gives just enough to allow your
pattern to be imprinted.
I realized that whatever pattern I come up with, I'm going to have
to reverse it on what ever I use. Conceptually, I want to take a thin
strip and "impress" a pattern of "raised" shapes (stars, half moons,
squares, circles, etc). As I think about it, I could just roll the
strip of brass thin, then hammer the patterns into the strip by hand, standard sheet metal kind of work.
"But I'm a machinist ... "
My other thought would certainly be more expensive and have design and
material thickness limitations so I'll dismiss it for now.
"It's a simple procedure involving lasers ..."
My other thought would certainly be more expensive and have design and
material thickness limitations so I'll dismiss it for now.
"It's a simple procedure involving lasers ..."
Actually A local "maker" I know was showed off some sheet metal
impressions he was doing when I visited his shop. He laid the sheet
over over a pattern with foam block and a hard backer over the top. He
was doing them on a simple hand operated hydraulic press. Impressions
of coins, and various other hard patterns. More as proof of concept
than anything else. H had some wrinkling around the impressions, but I
think that was more a function of using patterns not designed to deal
with that.
Two matching rollers was my other thought, but you do have to plan for >material thickness that way. Not just top and bottom, but also on the
slopes and sides.... but lasers are good too.
Greetings--
I have a small bench top rolling mill. Works fine as long as I
don't over do it.
But, the rollers are flat. I'd like to put a custom pattern (or
two) on thin brass / copper stock which will require something.
Option A is to punch the pattern into a piece of flat steel and
roll it through. Not a bad idea, but kind of limited to lengths of
out put. (Some of this will be for decorating wooden boxes).
Plan B would be to put the pattern into a roller so I can just
crank out as many feet as I have material. "It will all get used
sometime."
The issue for custom rollers is of course, what is the best grade
of steel for the rollers, and heat treating it after engraving. (Hmmm
'I just had an idea forming in my brain...')
The rollers are going to be about 2 to 3 inches long and about
"this" diameter. (I really should unpack it and see what the actual
sizes are...)
Now, where I'm going to find the machine to do this is a complete
second question.
tschus
pyotr
Further details on this project:
I have it apart in a box for later "fixing". At a minimum, wire
brush everything, and replace the bearing (needle rollers). It
appears to be Uncle Bob's home built gizmo for rolling out stock, as
it has a fitting to ratchet the gears. Could even have had an
electric motor.
This morning I realized a small issue: the gears are held on by
set screws. Meaning that there is a missing tooth on both gears. As
long as I go slow it won't be a great problem, but ... "it offends my professional standards." "Not set screws! Key ways!"
But between putting in key ways and possibly making new gears (and attendant design, machine and shop time), and replacing the bearings,
this is starting to look like more like "complete over haul" than a
"quick" fix. It might be worth the money to get a second hand mill
(is such a thing is possible?)
OTOH, I am retired, so I don't have a lot of money. Or spare
time, either
pyotr filipivich <phamp@mindspring.com> on Wed, 16 Mar 2022 15:48:50
-0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Greetings
I have a small bench top rolling mill. Works fine as long as I
don't over do it.
But, the rollers are flat. I'd like to put a custom pattern (or
two) on thin brass / copper stock which will require something.
Option A is to punch the pattern into a piece of flat steel and
roll it through. Not a bad idea, but kind of limited to lengths of
out put. (Some of this will be for decorating wooden boxes).
Plan B would be to put the pattern into a roller so I can just
crank out as many feet as I have material. "It will all get used
sometime."
The issue for custom rollers is of course, what is the best grade
of steel for the rollers, and heat treating it after engraving. (Hmmm
'I just had an idea forming in my brain...')
The rollers are going to be about 2 to 3 inches long and about
"this" diameter. (I really should unpack it and see what the actual
sizes are...)
Now, where I'm going to find the machine to do this is a complete
second question.
tschus
pyotr
On 21/03/2022 18:08, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Further details on this project:
I have it apart in a box for later "fixing". At a minimum, wire
brush everything, and replace the bearing (needle rollers). It
appears to be Uncle Bob's home built gizmo for rolling out stock, as
it has a fitting to ratchet the gears. Could even have had an
electric motor.
This morning I realized a small issue: the gears are held on by
set screws. Meaning that there is a missing tooth on both gears. As
long as I go slow it won't be a great problem, but ... "it offends my
professional standards." "Not set screws! Key ways!"
But between putting in key ways and possibly making new gears (and
attendant design, machine and shop time), and replacing the bearings,
this is starting to look like more like "complete over haul" than a
"quick" fix. It might be worth the money to get a second hand mill
(is such a thing is possible?)
OTOH, I am retired, so I don't have a lot of money. Or spare
time, either
Both of the rolling mills I have use bronze plain bearings, the smaller
UK made one bought new is IIRC a Durston and uses Oilite bushes, the
larger I got 2nd hand and is older and it has solid bronze bearing
blocks which supports half the shaft, the upper roller being supported
by J bolts under each journal to stop it dropping and connected to a
plate below the upper gears so they follow the upper roller.
David Billington <djb@invalid.com> on Mon, 21 Mar 2022 21:46:26 +0000
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 21/03/2022 18:08, pyotr filipivich wrote:Ah, an option I hadn't yet thought of. I mean, it is not like the rollers are going to be spinning at high speed.
Further details on this project:Both of the rolling mills I have use bronze plain bearings, the smaller
I have it apart in a box for later "fixing". At a minimum, wire
brush everything, and replace the bearing (needle rollers). It
appears to be Uncle Bob's home built gizmo for rolling out stock, as
it has a fitting to ratchet the gears. Could even have had an
electric motor.
This morning I realized a small issue: the gears are held on by
set screws. Meaning that there is a missing tooth on both gears. As
long as I go slow it won't be a great problem, but ... "it offends my
professional standards." "Not set screws! Key ways!"
But between putting in key ways and possibly making new gears (and
attendant design, machine and shop time), and replacing the bearings,
this is starting to look like more like "complete over haul" than a
"quick" fix. It might be worth the money to get a second hand mill
(is such a thing is possible?)
OTOH, I am retired, so I don't have a lot of money. Or spare
time, either
UK made one bought new is IIRC a Durston and uses Oilite bushes, the
larger I got 2nd hand and is older and it has solid bronze bearing
blocks which supports half the shaft, the upper roller being supported
by J bolts under each journal to stop it dropping and connected to a
plate below the upper gears so they follow the upper roller.
I suspect that "Uncle Bob" had a set of these rollers lying about
when he built the thing, so he went with it.
I've been following this thread to see what people do or would do with >rollers. So far I've been able to make the functional (not artistic) U
shapes I need with conduit benders or cutting at angles and welding. I
hardly ever use my HF Compact Bender or the rollers on my 3-in-1 sheet metal >machine. It only made one section of stainless stove pipe from some scrap.
What would you make with a ring or tubing roller?
I've been following this thread to see what people do or would do with >rollers. So far I've been able to make the functional (not artistic) U
shapes I need with conduit benders or cutting at angles and welding. I
hardly ever use my HF Compact Bender or the rollers on my 3-in-1 sheet
metal
machine. It only made one section of stainless stove pipe from some scrap.
What would you make with a ring or tubing roller?
I copied a long and complex replacement brake line in NiCopp using brake
line pliers and was impressed with how easy it was. I think NiCopp is easier >to properly double-lap flare than steel too.
I copied a long and complex replacement brake line in NiCopp using brake
line pliers and was impressed with how easy it was. I think NiCopp is
easier
to properly double-lap flare than steel too.
I've bent less intricate lines by hand, less neatly. This one runs from
front to rear of my truck along a frame rail and dodges many attachments
with sharp corners that might collapse if bent by hand, wasting the finished >section of the line. The pliers bend over grooved rolls.
I've bent less intricate lines by hand, less neatly. This one runs from
front to rear of my truck along a frame rail and dodges many attachments
with sharp corners that might collapse if bent by hand, wasting the
finished
section of the line. The pliers bend over grooved rolls.
Once I retired and no longer had to drive in bad weather the rust problems >almost stopped. Spraying LPS-3 underneath helped some but it didn't
withstand the high speed blast of salty water or protect enclosed areas I >couldn't reach well enough. So far the 1991 Ranger still passes state >inspection (yesterday) and the body is all steel, just not all original >steel. My MIG welder repaid its cost plus night school tuition on the first >job. The body shop estimate to fix a dime sized rust hole was $800, before >painting. The dealer wanted $3000, probably to replace the whole panel.
The inspector told me he was flat out busy because people are fixing their >old cars instead of replacing them. I think I see why after test driving >several. The new ones look nicer and have many fancy features (to break) but >are less functional, my Ranger has a 7' bed that holds 4'x8' plywood or >sheetrock with the tailgate tied half way up via a convenient notch. It
takes strong roof racks that clamp into the rain gutters and effectively >extend my ladder rack over the cab to carry 12' corrugated panels and 16' >lumber and steel. My neighbors' high-end full sized trucks can't do that.
I signed up for two night school auto repair courses in April. Like the
truck my knowledge is 30 years out of date.
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| Nodes: | 16 (2 / 14) |
| Uptime: | 44:46:09 |
| Calls: | 9,183 |
| Calls today: | 7 |
| Files: | 13,474 |
| Messages: | 6,050,384 |