"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t17et7$9ac$
2@dont-email.me...
On 3/19/2022 8:01 PM, Snag wrote:
I'm going to be installing bushings for the primary throttle shaft on
my Quadrajet carb , and have been pondering on how to accurately ream the worn bores so there is no binding . I was thinking about lining it up and boring the holes on the mill . And then tonight I had a thought ... they
sell a piloted reamer for this , so why not make a single flute piloted reamer like a d-bit drill ? I wouldn't even have to harden a piece of O1 drill rod to cut the aluminum alloy carb base . I like this idea enough
that I ordered a piece of 3/8" O1 drill rod ...
You "can" cut aluminum with some might soft steel, but I don't think you
will be happy with the results. HSS drill blanks are available and
inspite of the fact that I prefer carbide when possible HSS will work
nicely.
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If it doesn't cut the test sample smoothly he can harden and resharpen it.
The finished hole size doesn't matter if he turns the bushings to fit.
I prefer to temper on the softer side initially so the tool is less damaged
if it won't cut. Temper too hard and it may chip. I needed two tries to
drill the neighbor's son's truck springs. The custom U bolts he ordered for
a higher-than-Dad's lift kit came 5/8" instead of 1/2" diameter.
The funny thing is that when they need to haul something too long for their
$$$ trucks they call on me and my 7' bed 1991 Ranger.
An empty tin can lying on its side with some charcoal in the bottom concentrates and retains the heat of a propane torch. I coat the tool with Ivory soap to reduce scaling. O-1 is hot enough to harden when a magnet
doesn't stick to it.
Until I bought a Victor oxy-acetylene tote kit (for $50) the white-hot hardening temperature of HSS was beyond my reach. O-1 is relatively easy to work with. Keep its cutting speed in steel at 50 feet/min or less.
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