• Barrel Lids

    From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 17 12:51:36 2022
    I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
    or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
    aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
    technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
    I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
    hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
    now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
    them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
    (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
    we get an unusual amount of rain.

    The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
    most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
    them much less capacity.


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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 17 18:43:30 2022
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...

    I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
    or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
    aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
    technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
    I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
    hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
    now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
    them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
    (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
    we get an unusual amount of rain.

    The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
    most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
    them much less capacity.
    ----------------------

    You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated galvy roofing.

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  • From pyotr filipivich@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 17 15:53:13 2022
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
    -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...

    I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship >Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
    or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
    aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
    technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
    I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
    hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
    now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
    them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
    (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
    we get an unusual amount of rain.

    The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
    most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
    them much less capacity.
    ----------------------

    You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated >galvy roofing.

    Or drain holes ...
    --
    pyotr filipivich
    "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to pyotr filipivich on Sun Apr 17 16:36:33 2022
    On 4/17/2022 3:53 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
    -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...

    I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship
    Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
    or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
    aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
    technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
    I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
    hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
    now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
    them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
    (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
    we get an unusual amount of rain.

    The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
    most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
    them much less capacity.
    ----------------------

    You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated >> galvy roofing.

    Or drain holes ...

    There are reasons I may not want drain holes in the bottoms. I've also
    noted barrels with holes in the bottom seem to start rusting out quicker.




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  • From goodsoldierschweik@invalid.junk@21:1/5 to phamp@mindspring.com on Mon Apr 18 06:16:29 2022
    On Sun, 17 Apr 2022 15:53:13 -0700, pyotr filipivich
    <phamp@mindspring.com> wrote:

    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
    -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...

    I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship >>Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
    or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast >>aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but >>technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
    I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
    hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck.
    now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
    them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal >>(plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
    we get an unusual amount of rain.

    The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
    most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
    them much less capacity.
    ----------------------

    You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated >>galvy roofing.

    Or drain holes ...


    But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
    bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
    drill bit...
    --
    Cheers,

    Schweik

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to goodsoldierschweik@invalid.junk on Sun Apr 17 16:37:09 2022
    On 4/17/2022 4:16 PM, goodsoldierschweik@invalid.junk wrote:
    On Sun, 17 Apr 2022 15:53:13 -0700, pyotr filipivich
    <phamp@mindspring.com> wrote:

    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
    -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...

    I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship >>> Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
    or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
    aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
    technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
    I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
    hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck. >>> now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
    them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
    (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
    we get an unusual amount of rain.

    The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
    most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
    them much less capacity.
    ----------------------

    You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated
    galvy roofing.

    Or drain holes ...


    But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
    bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
    drill bit...
    --
    Cheers,

    Schweik


    Keep thinking about that. Eventually you will get it.

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Apr 17 16:43:56 2022
    On 4/17/2022 3:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...

    I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship Roundup) that have been rinsed out.  I'd like to cut the top out of two
    or three of them to organize scrap metal.  Wrought, aluminum, cast
    aluminum, and copper.  Sure I could just make piles outside, but
    technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
    I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
    hauling toting and stacking as it is now.  I don't want to push my luck.
     now.  I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
    them to fill with water.  I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
    (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
    we get an unusual amount of rain.

    The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
    most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
    them much less capacity.
    ----------------------

    You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or
    corrugated galvy roofing.



    Water heater pans returned lots of results available locally at a decent
    price and since they are local... no shipping.

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  • From Gerry@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 17 23:00:25 2022
    On Sun, 17 Apr 2022 16:43:56 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
    wrote:

    On 4/17/2022 3:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...

    I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship
    Roundup) that have been rinsed out.  I'd like to cut the top out of two
    or three of them to organize scrap metal.  Wrought, aluminum, cast
    aluminum, and copper.  Sure I could just make piles outside, but
    technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
    I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
    hauling toting and stacking as it is now.  I don't want to push my luck.
     now.  I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
    them to fill with water.  I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
    (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
    we get an unusual amount of rain.

    The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
    most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
    them much less capacity.
    ----------------------

    You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or
    corrugated galvy roofing.



    Water heater pans returned lots of results available locally at a decent >price and since they are local... no shipping.

    persnaly I would go with sections of corrugated roofing with three or
    four longish through bolts to locate, might also need a rock in case
    of wind

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Mon Apr 18 07:44:42 2022
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3i8nr$5cj$1@dont-email.me...

    On 4/17/2022 3:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or
    corrugated galvy roofing.

    Water heater pans returned lots of results available locally at a decent
    price and since they are local... no shipping.

    ----------------

    The covers on my scrap metal barrels are black plastic water heater pans covered with a tarp, and weighted with spare PVC and galvy tubing and gutter sections that can be stored outside. They are in the shade of a shed and
    pine trees so sun damage is less of a concern than falling branches.

    If they were more exposed to intruders I might weight them with several smallish sandbags etc that aren't very useful as break-in tools. I learned
    to see rocks and other hard heavy objects as burglary aids from a friend who had done time.

    I finally got that inexpensive PTZ surveillance camera to work with a laptop over a direct WiFi link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DTQKB52/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1
    The software and instructions could be more helpful. I'm not familiar with smart phones and routers and am still trying to connect it to a free older phone.

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  • From pyotr filipivich@21:1/5 to All on Mon Apr 18 09:08:13 2022
    Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 16:36:33 -0700
    typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
    On 4/17/2022 3:53 PM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
    -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...

    I've got half a dozen old steel chemical barrels (they were used to ship >>> Roundup) that have been rinsed out. I'd like to cut the top out of two
    or three of them to organize scrap metal. Wrought, aluminum, cast
    aluminum, and copper. Sure I could just make piles outside, but
    technically we do have an ugly ordinance int he county were I live.
    I've never had a complaint, but if I ever did I i'd spend a motnth
    hauling toting and stacking as it is now. I don't want to push my luck. >>> now. I don't want ot leave those barrels inside, and I don't want
    them to fill with water. I was wondering if there is a cheap metal
    (plastic will sun rot) lid I could put on them to keep the rain out if
    we get an unusual amount of rain.

    The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
    most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
    them much less capacity.
    ----------------------

    You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated
    galvy roofing.

    Or drain holes ...

    There are reasons I may not want drain holes in the bottoms. I've also
    noted barrels with holes in the bottom seem to start rusting out quicker.

    I can agree. Hollows in the scrap will hold water, rust and
    corrosion. Not to mention breed skeeters.
    I suspect that holes in the bottom rust out faster because of the
    bare metal left exposed after drilling.
    --
    pyotr filipivich
    "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to pyotr filipivich on Mon Apr 18 09:35:35 2022
    On 4/18/2022 9:08 AM, pyotr filipivich wrote:
    goodsoldierschweik@invalid.junk on Mon, 18 Apr 2022 06:16:29 +0700
    typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
    On Sun, 17 Apr 2022 15:53:13 -0700, pyotr filipivich
    <phamp@mindspring.com> wrote:
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> on Sun, 17 Apr 2022 18:43:30
    -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t3hr48$bpu$1@dont-email.me...

    The other option is to slice the barrels just below center of the top
    most reinforcing ridge so they can be their own lids, but that gives
    them much less capacity.
    ----------------------

    You could try the drain pans meant to go under water heaters., or corrugated
    galvy roofing.

    Or drain holes ...


    But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
    bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
    drill bit...

    naw, all you need to do is hold the barrel over your head and work
    from inside.

    Just don't let it slip and conk you on your poor little head.

    LOL-IRL


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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Mon Apr 18 13:18:46 2022
    But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
    bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
    drill bit...
    Schweik

    ----------------------
    The perfect tool for the task: https://www.amazon.com/Truper-30106-70-Inch-Hexagonal-16-Pound/dp/B000KKV9XC?th=1
    It wins every argument with whatever it strikes, but you can't buy one until you learn it's true name.

    Speaking of red-neck methods...

    As a kid while visiting Grandpa in the southern Appalachians I was sent out
    to fasten down the corrugated roof of the corn crib. The nail heads had
    rusted off in one corner and it was flapping. He didn't have much for tools
    or a long enough ladder to work from above but I did have my .22, so I shot
    a row of holes and hay-wired it down.

    The auto shop teacher showed me his trick to salvage a can of brake cleaner that the kids had dropped and broken the spray head stem offa. He held it upside down and nipped the rim with dikes to let the propellant out, then clamped it in the bench vise to keep it from spilling, but the girls removed
    it to use the vise to wire-brush rusty brake calipers. (The guys let them
    and brushed free-hand)

    I added squeezing flats on the ends of the can so it wouldn't roll.

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  • From Chris Pain@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Mon Apr 18 11:08:17 2022
    On Monday, April 18, 2022 at 1:19:42 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
    bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
    drill bit...
    Schweik

    ----------------------
    The perfect tool for the task: https://www.amazon.com/Truper-30106-70-Inch-Hexagonal-16-Pound/dp/B000KKV9XC?th=1
    It wins every argument with whatever it strikes, but you can't buy one until you learn it's true name.

    Speaking of red-neck methods...

    As a kid while visiting Grandpa in the southern Appalachians I was sent out to fasten down the corrugated roof of the corn crib. The nail heads had rusted off in one corner and it was flapping. He didn't have much for tools or a long enough ladder to work from above but I did have my .22, so I shot a row of holes and hay-wired it down.

    The auto shop teacher showed me his trick to salvage a can of brake cleaner that the kids had dropped and broken the spray head stem offa. He held it upside down and nipped the rim with dikes to let the propellant out, then clamped it in the bench vise to keep it from spilling, but the girls removed it to use the vise to wire-brush rusty brake calipers. (The guys let them and brushed free-hand)

    I added squeezing flats on the ends of the can so it wouldn't roll.
    Back in the day we cut the top off the drums with an overgrown can opener. This gave us a ready made re-useable top with no additional cost. you might find someone near you at a drum recycler who would do that at a reasonable cost. If water is a real
    issue cut the bottom off and leave the bungs out with the drum upside down.

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Mon Apr 18 14:47:00 2022
    On 4/18/2022 10:18 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
    bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
    drill bit...
    Schweik

    ----------------------
    The perfect tool for the task: https://www.amazon.com/Truper-30106-70-Inch-Hexagonal-16-Pound/dp/B000KKV9XC?th=1

    It wins every argument with whatever it strikes, but you can't buy one
    until you learn it's true name.

    Speaking of red-neck methods...

    As a kid while visiting Grandpa in the southern Appalachians I was sent
    out to fasten down the corrugated roof of the corn crib. The nail heads
    had rusted off in one corner and it was flapping. He didn't have much
    for tools or a long enough ladder to work from above but I did have my
    .22, so I shot a row of holes and hay-wired it down.

    The auto shop teacher showed me his trick to salvage a can of brake
    cleaner that the kids had dropped and broken the spray head stem offa.
    He held it upside down and nipped the rim with dikes to let the
    propellant out, then clamped it in the bench vise to keep it from
    spilling, but the girls removed it to use the vise to wire-brush rusty
    brake calipers. (The guys let them and brushed free-hand)

    I added squeezing flats on the ends of the can so it wouldn't roll.



    I own a straight pick. Sometimes it will keep going even when a double
    jack bounces off.

    --
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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Chris Pain on Mon Apr 18 14:49:07 2022
    On 4/18/2022 11:08 AM, Chris Pain wrote:
    On Monday, April 18, 2022 at 1:19:42 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
    bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
    drill bit...
    Schweik

    ----------------------
    The perfect tool for the task:
    https://www.amazon.com/Truper-30106-70-Inch-Hexagonal-16-Pound/dp/B000KKV9XC?th=1
    It wins every argument with whatever it strikes, but you can't buy one until >> you learn it's true name.

    Speaking of red-neck methods...

    As a kid while visiting Grandpa in the southern Appalachians I was sent out >> to fasten down the corrugated roof of the corn crib. The nail heads had
    rusted off in one corner and it was flapping. He didn't have much for tools >> or a long enough ladder to work from above but I did have my .22, so I shot >> a row of holes and hay-wired it down.

    The auto shop teacher showed me his trick to salvage a can of brake cleaner >> that the kids had dropped and broken the spray head stem offa. He held it
    upside down and nipped the rim with dikes to let the propellant out, then
    clamped it in the bench vise to keep it from spilling, but the girls removed >> it to use the vise to wire-brush rusty brake calipers. (The guys let them
    and brushed free-hand)

    I added squeezing flats on the ends of the can so it wouldn't roll.
    Back in the day we cut the top off the drums with an overgrown can opener. This gave us a ready made re-useable top with no additional cost. you might find someone near you at a drum recycler who would do that at a reasonable cost. If water is a real
    issue cut the bottom off and leave the bungs out with the drum upside down.

    Did it split the seam like a Magic Chef can opener? That would be
    really cool. I have seen can openers for drums, but most look like they
    used the a shear like a P38 can opener. Just with an extra along lever.


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  • From Chris Pain@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Tue Apr 19 14:22:38 2022
    On Monday, April 18, 2022 at 5:49:09 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 4/18/2022 11:08 AM, Chris Pain wrote:
    On Monday, April 18, 2022 at 1:19:42 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    But, but, but... It's so hard to drill them holes way down in the
    bottom of them big deep barrels.. Prolly need a long extesnsion on the
    drill bit...
    Schweik

    ----------------------
    The perfect tool for the task:
    https://www.amazon.com/Truper-30106-70-Inch-Hexagonal-16-Pound/dp/B000KKV9XC?th=1
    It wins every argument with whatever it strikes, but you can't buy one until
    you learn it's true name.

    Speaking of red-neck methods...

    As a kid while visiting Grandpa in the southern Appalachians I was sent out
    to fasten down the corrugated roof of the corn crib. The nail heads had >> rusted off in one corner and it was flapping. He didn't have much for tools
    or a long enough ladder to work from above but I did have my .22, so I shot
    a row of holes and hay-wired it down.

    The auto shop teacher showed me his trick to salvage a can of brake cleaner
    that the kids had dropped and broken the spray head stem offa. He held it >> upside down and nipped the rim with dikes to let the propellant out, then >> clamped it in the bench vise to keep it from spilling, but the girls removed
    it to use the vise to wire-brush rusty brake calipers. (The guys let them >> and brushed free-hand)

    I added squeezing flats on the ends of the can so it wouldn't roll.
    Back in the day we cut the top off the drums with an overgrown can opener. This gave us a ready made re-useable top with no additional cost. you might find someone near you at a drum recycler who would do that at a reasonable cost. If water is a real
    issue cut the bottom off and leave the bungs out with the drum upside down.
    Did it split the seam like a Magic Chef can opener? That would be
    really cool. I have seen can openers for drums, but most look like they
    used the a shear like a P38 can opener. Just with an extra along lever.
    --
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    Yes it split the rim of the drumat about mid height, leaving an easily replaceable lid if desired. Ours was electric and clamped on teh rim and walked around the drum to do it's job. Worked a treat!

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