Well,,,,I just ordered the second gear (Brass worm wheel) for our 32
year old Harbor freight 4x6 band saw. - (Parts arr actually easy to
come by - Just not from Harbor Freight - Ie, BDI McMaster or Boston Gear) The original gear was cast Iron and wore out and was replaced about 20
years ago with a brass gear. Now we will replace it with an Acura wheek
and worm right off eBay. 65 bucks delivered to the shop door.
This is not a hobby saw either. We originally bought it as a dedicated machine for a job we did for Catipiller. Lots of 200-2" Long blocks from 2"x5/8 HRS Barstock (Actually it was metric 80x80x16 as I remember) We
ran that job 8 to 10 times a year for over 3 years. - I also made a
fixture to cut a 1/4x1/4 chamfer on the block but we found gang milling
them in the Horz mill was faster. - Point is it;s not easy to cut the
corner off a 2" block with a band saw. (So much for HF saws not cutting streight)
We put the little saw into general service after the Toowmotor moves to
Korea and eventually sold the Kalamazoo because Bimetal blades for the
HF saw were WAY cheaper and after we put flood coolant on the little saw
they lasted every bit as long as the big saw blades. .,,, (We put a hydraulic feed on it last year and the blades last even longer now/ - We
cut LOTS of 2" and 1-1'2: 4140 pre hard round bar and the hydraulic
doubles the life of the BiMetal 6-10 blades. (Like I say- Not a hobby saw)
We are going to replace the bearings on the gearbox this time on GP ,
but the guide bearings are original and are in perfect shape.. With a micrometer stop we made fo the saw it cuts within .005 all day. (It gets
run an average of 10 to 15 hours a week BTW.....MVP in the shop. Very
little happens without it)
So when is it time to give up on these saws? When you die, especially
if you modify them with things like water and hydraulic feeds. - Within
the 4x6 range thee is nothing a brand new $10,000 ChiCom saw will do
that this "throw-away" saw will not do.
As far as cutting straight, in the years we have had this saw I have
found the only reason that keep it from cutting straight by looking in a mirror. When YOU get it adjusted it will cut dead nuts all day long.
Contact me at wrew4power#gmail if you want to pick my brain
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t4mih3$sjt$1@dont-email.me...
...I have
lots of other metal cutting tools (torch, plasma, grinder, chop saw,
metal cutting circular saw, SawzAll, sabre saw, etc), but the horizontal
band saw out works all of them in my shop. I don't mean individually.
I mean combined.
-----------------
My 4x6 is also my wood cutoff saw. With a 6~10 TPI blade It has cut up
to 6x6s cleanly, without a nub in the middle. Finer pitch blades just clog.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t4musd$tnc$1@dont-email.me...
I feel like a knob. I was trying to cut down some reclaimed guardrail
post the other day (a few months ago) and struggled. I've actually got
a low pitch carbide tooth blade for the 7x12. Of all the tools I have I never thought of that one.
I wound up making multiple partial cuts on the big RAS and then breaking
it with a wedge. Then I had to clean it up and flatten it with a power plane.
I was banding them together to make a "stump" for my anvil.
------------------------
I've tried the 4x6 as a chop saw to cut firewood that was smaller than a chainsaw will cut without grabbing. It works reasonably well both horizontally and vertically unless the branch is crooked and hard to
hold straight against the pull.
(one-hand) chainsaw that's probably a better and certainly faster and
more portable way to cut up branches that are between lopper and
two-hand chainsaw size.
firmly against the sawbucks, which eliminates jumping and reduces
grabbing, and feeds it for the next cut. Be very careful with one-hand 'arborist' chainsaws. So far I've used it only with the sawbuck frame guarding my off hand from the bar and the saw held out beside me.
I thought an anvil should be mounted on a wood 'stump' with the top at knuckle height until I took the blacksmithing class. His were on welded
angle iron frames at various heights, for various sized students, and
all that I tried were satisfactory until my arm tired. The smiths at ag
fairs have portable pipe / angle iron stands for their anvils and leg
vises.
To better view delicate work I remounted my anvil at waist height on a
tripod of one 2x6 and 2 2x4 legs which makes it more stable and
generally useful than it was on the oak log section. It may preferably
be lower for a long session of heavy hammering but I don't draw out
metal that way, and my eyes focus best at closer computer monitor
distance. For me higher is better for center-punching scribe marks and flattening and shaping sheet metal with a light hammer. The anvil
removes the temptation to misuse a machine tool as one.
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:t4okom$e71$1@dont-email.me...
I wound up making multiple partial cuts on the big RAS and then breaking
it with a wedge. Then I had to clean it up and flatten it with a power plane.
--------------------
I've noticed that very experienced craftsmen are extremely reluctant to
use hand tools these days.
cutoffs for cribbing and see that none were severed in the middle with a
hand or pruning saw. I suppose they never learned how to keep saws
sharp, and maybe don't want to be embarrassed by poor results.
I did learn how in Jr High, and surprised a carpenter neighbor with
press-fit hand cut mortices in a shed frame made from tree trunks.
I also bought an inexpensive top-handle
(one-hand) chainsaw that's probably a better and certainly faster and more portable way to cut up branches that are between lopper and two-hand
chainsaw size.
The problem with all of them when<snip>
cutting small branches on sawbucks X=X X=X is not having a free hand to
hold down the branch when it's smaller than the gap between cutters and
whips around.
I've noticed that very experienced craftsmen are extremely reluctant to
use hand tools these days.
The problem with all of them when<snip>
cutting small branches on sawbucks X=X X=X is not having a free hand to
hold down the branch when it's smaller than the gap between cutters and
whips around.
The top one sharpens the end flutes of end mills nicely. https://www.kbctools.com/catsearch/146/end-mill-grinding-fixtures
The lowest one does side flutes but it's fussy to adjust and difficult
to use, and of course they become undersized, better for roughing than finishing.
For my low-budget hobby use I sharpen only the end flutes and rough out
steel by plunging down, which doesn't dull the sides. The horizontal
feed between plunges is less than the radius so I don't have to keep
them center-cutting.
The top one sharpens the end flutes of end mills nicely. https://www.kbctools.com/catsearch/146/end-mill-grinding-fixtures
The lowest one does side flutes but it's fussy to adjust and difficult to use, and of course they become undersized, better for roughing than finishing.
For my low-budget hobby use I sharpen only the end flutes and rough out
steel by plunging down, which doesn't dull the sides. The horizontal feed between plunges is less than the radius so I don't have to keep them center-cutting.
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