On Saturday, September 3, 2022 at 2:35:44 PM UTC-4, kayge wrote:
On Fri, 02 Sep 2022 09:32:14 -0700, ohg...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 4:53:29 PM UTC-4, kayge wrote:
Well, well, aren't you sharp! I'm going through the backlight chain one >> by one INCLUDING connectors. The originals were 5 strips of 10 LED's,
but the replacements are 10 strips of 5 tied by a connector. Sure
enough one of the lines wasn't making it through one of the connectors. >> I will go through the rest of the chain tomorrow and repair any breaks. >> My friend will be super happy if I fix this as they aren't terribly
well off. Just curious, where are you from? North Florida USA here.
I'm in Wolcott Connecticut.
I have seen a lot of those interconnects cause problems from flickering
to no function at all, but never on new strips. I have a feeling you
ended up with pulls. There should be zero resistance across the connectors. After you fix the bad one make sure they ALL are zero ohms.
If any are a few tenths of an ohm or higher, jump them all out with
short insulated wires, otherwise you'll be back inside at some point.
Even if they test good with an ohmmeter they may show some voltage drop across them. There of course should be 0.0V drop across the connectors.
If this TV has a back light adjustment in the customer menu, lower it to just above half to preserve the LED array. If it doesn't have an adjustable setting in the menu, let me know and I'll show you what resistor to change to lower the global current.
Thanks for all your help my friend, got the backlight issue fixed by
jumping around that bad connector, but it doesn't matter if your display
is cracked to shit. I had no idea they were so fragile and I even have the thing on a queen bed. I take it any flexing of the display and it's toast.
They are fragile, which is why I posted this in one of your earlier threads:
"General comments on display removal: be very careful with the bonded ribbons - try not to flex them much. If the display is held down with double sided tape, make sure to carefully life the screen out. I use a heat gun (carefully) to heat up each side
one by one, and with a small suction cup, pull up while sliding a thin plastic shiv along working until the side is free.. If you try to lift the screen without releasing the tape, the screen WILL crack. Make sure those sheets go back *exactly* as they
came out. If you get one upside or backwards or out of order, it will affect the picture as at least one of the sheets is a polarizer. Make sure the four corners of the display itself are safely nestled inside the frame. You can use a combination of feel
and magnification if necessary to make sure the screen isn't sitting on the lip even by a micrometer. If the display isn't tucked properly inside the frame, it WILL crack when you snap the outer mask back in place."
If it's any consolation, I've walked dozens of people through LED repairs on-line, and I honestly can't remember more than one or two at most that did not suffer a screen failure.
Also, just because the TV presented with bad LEDs doesn't preclude the possibility that it was broken before you even attempted it.
When I do an LED job, I look over the screen carefully with a bright light looking for a cracked glass layer under the outer dark tinted plastic layer which does a good job of hiding an internal crack. If that looks OK, I remove the screen and hold it
up over my head like I was presenting a gift to the Gods so I can spot a crack against the backlighting of my shop fluorescent lights. If there are no visible cracks, I keep going.
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