Onkyo TX-SV70 Pro Amp-Tuner - Display But No Sound
The owner states that "all the buttons do something" on
the front display when she presses them, but she hears no
sound out of the speakers attached to it.
I asked her to make sure she had selected the correct speaker
group(A or B). Still no sound. She was tuned to a known good
local radio station.
Any other suggestions?
On Wednesday, August 25, 2021 at 12:04:07 PM UTC-7, Chris K-Man wrote:______
Onkyo TX-SV70 Pro Amp-Tuner - Display But No Sound
The owner states that "all the buttons do something" onSo, she's tried the 'tape monitor' button, and that didn't fix the problem?
the front display when she presses them, but she hears no
sound out of the speakers attached to it.
Onkyo TX-SV70 Pro Amp-Tuner - Display But No Sound
The owner states that "all the buttons do something" on
the front display when she presses them, but she hears no
sound out of the speakers attached to it.
On Thursday, August 26, 2021 at 5:18:59 AM UTC-4, whit3rd wrote:The easiest thing to have the customer check is the sound of the protection relay releasing/engaging. Turn on the unit and listen for a click. If none, then there is a problem with the output section and the protection circuit is engaged preventing the
On Wednesday, August 25, 2021 at 12:04:07 PM UTC-7, Chris K-Man wrote:
Onkyo TX-SV70 Pro Amp-Tuner - Display But No Sound
______The owner states that "all the buttons do something" onSo, she's tried the 'tape monitor' button, and that didn't fix the problem?
the front display when she presses them, but she hears no
sound out of the speakers attached to it.
I'll check all that when I visit the customer
On Thursday, August 26, 2021 at 5:53:39 AM UTC-4, Chris K-Man wrote:speakers from connecting. This can be caused by many things in the output section.
On Thursday, August 26, 2021 at 5:18:59 AM UTC-4, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, August 25, 2021 at 12:04:07 PM UTC-7, Chris K-Man wrote:
Onkyo TX-SV70 Pro Amp-Tuner - Display But No Sound
______The owner states that "all the buttons do something" onSo, she's tried the 'tape monitor' button, and that didn't fix the problem?
the front display when she presses them, but she hears no
sound out of the speakers attached to it.
I'll check all that when I visit the customerThe easiest thing to have the customer check is the sound of the protection relay releasing/engaging. Turn on the unit and listen for a click. If none, then there is a problem with the output section and the protection circuit is engaged preventing the
When you get this for repair, look at the driver ICs (uPC1298V) for poor connections. This is a common failure point. Check any voltage regulators for poor connections as well.____
Dan
On my personal JVC receiver, there's a click almost concurrent with
pressing the power button, then about two seconds later, a second click, after which I can hear sound. Is that the click I should listen for on hers?
On my personal JVC receiver, there's a click almost concurrent with >pressing the power button, then about two seconds later, a second click, >after which I can hear sound. Is that the click I should listen for on hers?
Sorry for jumping into a continuing thread, but I 've had trouble------------------------------------------------------------------
with Onkyo an receiver, but I found a very interesting thing:
they can heal themselves. The tuner on my first Onkyo failed.
Since everything else worked I put the receiver aside and bought
a new Onkyo. After a couple of weeks I decided I wanted to swap
it out for a Denon. So I packed up the new Onkyo, and before
I could return it I went back to the old Onkyo and the tuner
was working, as was everything else. The tuner healed itself
by sitting idle for a couple of weeks. Sometime later the
sound went out, and this time I just unplugged the unit
for a couple of days and, again the unit worked fine.
root wrote:
=========
Sorry for jumping into a continuing thread, but I 've had trouble------------------------------------------------------------------
with Onkyo an receiver, but I found a very interesting thing:
they can heal themselves. The tuner on my first Onkyo failed.
Since everything else worked I put the receiver aside and bought
a new Onkyo. After a couple of weeks I decided I wanted to swap
it out for a Denon. So I packed up the new Onkyo, and before
I could return it I went back to the old Onkyo and the tuner
was working, as was everything else. The tuner healed itself
by sitting idle for a couple of weeks. Sometime later the
sound went out, and this time I just unplugged the unit
for a couple of days and, again the unit worked fine.
** That is called an " intermittent fault " in the repair business.
When the unit works fine most of the time, they are often near impossible to track down.
..... Phil
I use the "Thump Test" (patent pending) when dealing with intermittents
- it does turn up a fair percentage of bugs. Just today I spotted an electrolytic cap that wiggled slightly when the case was lightly
thumped. Turned out one lead was not actually connected to the solder
(the joys of single sided PCBs), and the cap was a loose connection
causing other parts to fire (a strobe system) seemingly at random. This
was easy to fix, as it failed periodically, but only when tapped/thumped.
John Robertson wrote:
=====================
--------------------------------------------
I use the "Thump Test" (patent pending) when dealing with intermittents
- it does turn up a fair percentage of bugs. Just today I spotted an
electrolytic cap that wiggled slightly when the case was lightly
thumped. Turned out one lead was not actually connected to the solder
(the joys of single sided PCBs), and the cap was a loose connection
causing other parts to fire (a strobe system) seemingly at random. This
was easy to fix, as it failed periodically, but only when tapped/thumped.
** That technique is known as " percussive maintenance ".
Another technique is " tune for maximum smoke".
This involves a source of high current connected to a DC rail shorted to ground.
One increases the voltage gradually while looking for smoke signals.
.... Phil
On 2021/08/27 12:31 a.m., Phil Allison wrote:
John Robertson wrote:
=====================
--------------------------------------------
I use the "Thump Test" (patent pending) when dealing with intermittents
- it does turn up a fair percentage of bugs. Just today I spotted an
electrolytic cap that wiggled slightly when the case was lightly
thumped. Turned out one lead was not actually connected to the solder
(the joys of single sided PCBs), and the cap was a loose connection
causing other parts to fire (a strobe system) seemingly at random. This
was easy to fix, as it failed periodically, but only when tapped/thumped. >>
** That technique is known as " percussive maintenance ".
Another technique is " tune for maximum smoke".
This involves a source of high current connected to a DC rail shorted to ground.
One increases the voltage gradually while looking for smoke signals.
.... Phil
We also use the "dim light test" where you put a light bulb in series
with the line input to the item under test. The light should not glow brightly except for initial turn-on, where it would be brightish, then
dim as the caps charge.
Regulated power supplies are the technicians friend - where you can dial
up the current available...
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
--------------------------------------------
I use the "Thump Test" (patent pending) when dealing with intermittents
- it does turn up a fair percentage of bugs. Just today I spotted an
electrolytic cap that wiggled slightly when the case was lightly
thumped. Turned out one lead was not actually connected to the solder
(the joys of single sided PCBs), and the cap was a loose connection
causing other parts to fire (a strobe system) seemingly at random. This
was easy to fix, as it failed periodically, but only when tapped/thumped. >>
** That technique is known as " percussive maintenance ".
Another technique is " tune for maximum smoke".
This involves a source of high current connected to a DC rail shorted to ground.
One increases the voltage gradually while looking for smoke signals.
We also use the "dim light test" where you put a light bulb in series
with the line input to the item under test. The light should not glow brightly except for initial turn-on, where it would be brightish, then
dim as the caps charge.
We also use the "dim light test" where you put a light bulb in series
** That technique is known as " percussive maintenance ".
Another technique is " tune for maximum smoke".
This involves a source of high current connected to a DC rail shorted to ground.
One increases the voltage gradually while looking for smoke signals.
with the line input to the item under test. The light should not glow
brightly except for initial turn-on, where it would be brightish, then
dim as the caps charge.
** That crude idea has very limited application.
The series resistance of the lamp plus the rather large voltage drop does not alloy many items to operate.
I use a Variac and a digital current meter when powering up anything on my bench.
Actually the dim bulb, say 100W, has a rather small cold resistance so
it doesn't end up with a large voltage drop - yet limits the current.
A variac (have a few of those) is a handy tool too,
but the dim bulb can
be left in circuit while you wander off to do other things and if that
side of the room suddenly gets brighter you know something has happened
that now needs attention.
Might you also have a High-Pot tester? Great for verifying insulation
John Robertson wrote:
===================
We also use the "dim light test" where you put a light bulb in series--------------------------------------------
I use the "Thump Test" (patent pending) when dealing with intermittents >>>> - it does turn up a fair percentage of bugs. Just today I spotted an
electrolytic cap that wiggled slightly when the case was lightly
thumped. Turned out one lead was not actually connected to the solder
(the joys of single sided PCBs), and the cap was a loose connection
causing other parts to fire (a strobe system) seemingly at random. This >>>> was easy to fix, as it failed periodically, but only when tapped/thumped. >>>>
** That technique is known as " percussive maintenance ".
Another technique is " tune for maximum smoke".
This involves a source of high current connected to a DC rail shorted to ground.
One increases the voltage gradually while looking for smoke signals.
with the line input to the item under test. The light should not glow
brightly except for initial turn-on, where it would be brightish, then
dim as the caps charge.
** That crude idea has very limited application.
The series resistance of the lamp plus the rather large voltage drop does not alloy many items to operate.
I use a Variac and a digital current meter when powering up anything on my bench.
..... Phil
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