• Diverted neutral current

    From Scott@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 23 12:56:44 2024
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's
    YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about
    followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find
    out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take
    anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230
    volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next
    door's wiring.

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in
    current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage
    to earth would immediately trip the RCD. I think I'll stick with
    Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David Wade@21:1/5 to Scott on Mon Dec 23 14:30:14 2024
    On 23/12/2024 13:56, Scott wrote:
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's
    YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about
    followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find
    out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230
    volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next
    door's wiring.

    OK I believe that in reality there are only two systems in use, TT and
    TN-C-S. Whilst your system may appear to be TN-S I understand you should
    treat it as TN-C-S as any repairs to the distribution system may result
    in Earth and Neutral being combined.


    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in
    current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage
    to earth would immediately trip the RCD. I think I'll stick with
    Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    On PME Neutral and Earth are combined .....

    Dave

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Theo@21:1/5 to Scott on Mon Dec 23 13:22:49 2024
    Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's
    YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about
    followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find
    out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230
    volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next
    door's wiring.

    Have a look at your incoming cable. If it has the earth wired to the sheath
    of the cable that's TNS. If the earth goes into the neutral terminal that's TNCS (or a PME sticker). If you have an outdoor earth rod that's TT.

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in
    current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage
    to earth would immediately trip the RCD. I think I'll stick with
    Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    Yes. Particularly required on TT where the earth impedance can be 200 ohms
    - the fault current wouldn't trip an MCB but it would trip an RCD. If next door causes your earth to go live via the water pipe, your RCD won't help
    but your earth bonding should shunt much of the current to your real earth.
    On TT your neighbour should have an RCD that trips.

    Theo

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to Scott on Mon Dec 23 14:18:08 2024
    Scott wrote:

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in
    current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage
    to earth would immediately trip the RCD.

    RCDs/RCBOs only care about an imbalance which is on your side of your
    consumer unit, they won't trip due to a fault on the supplier's side.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Scott on Mon Dec 23 16:10:31 2024
    On 23/12/2024 12:56, Scott wrote:
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's
    YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about
    followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find
    out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230
    volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next
    door's wiring.

    Details of the types and how to tell which you have here:

    https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Earthing_Types

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in
    current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage
    to earth would immediately trip the RCD.

    Indeed...

    However (most) RCDs have no earth connection, so if it is the earth
    which is introducing a potential into your house, the RCD won't see it,
    and even if it tripped, it would not disconnect the earth.

    (which is why we have equipotential bonding)

    I think I'll stick with
    Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    Bring me sunshine :-)

    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Theo on Mon Dec 23 16:16:14 2024
    On 23/12/2024 13:22, Theo wrote:
    Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's
    YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about
    followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find
    out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take
    anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230
    volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next
    door's wiring.

    Have a look at your incoming cable. If it has the earth wired to the sheath of the cable that's TNS. If the earth goes into the neutral terminal that's TNCS (or a PME sticker). If you have an outdoor earth rod that's TT.

    Note that an earth rod can also be added to a TN-C-S install - it just
    becomes another of the Multiple earths of PME.

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in
    current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage
    to earth would immediately trip the RCD. I think I'll stick with
    Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    Yes. Particularly required on TT where the earth impedance can be 200 ohms
    - the fault current wouldn't trip an MCB but it would trip an RCD. If next door causes your earth to go live via the water pipe, your RCD won't help
    but your earth bonding should shunt much of the current to your real earth. On TT your neighbour should have an RCD that trips.

    If the neighbour has a disconnected neutral, but there is a path to your neutral via theirs and yours equipotential bonding, then their RCD may
    not see a fault since there will be a balance between live and what it
    is seeing as neutral.

    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott@21:1/5 to see.my.signature@nowhere.null on Mon Dec 23 17:00:28 2024
    On Mon, 23 Dec 2024 16:16:14 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 23/12/2024 13:22, Theo wrote:
    Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's
    YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about
    followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find
    out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take
    anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230
    volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next
    door's wiring.

    Have a look at your incoming cable. If it has the earth wired to the sheath >> of the cable that's TNS. If the earth goes into the neutral terminal that's >> TNCS (or a PME sticker). If you have an outdoor earth rod that's TT.

    Note that an earth rod can also be added to a TN-C-S install - it just >becomes another of the Multiple earths of PME.

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in
    current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage
    to earth would immediately trip the RCD. I think I'll stick with
    Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    Yes. Particularly required on TT where the earth impedance can be 200 ohms >> - the fault current wouldn't trip an MCB but it would trip an RCD. If next >> door causes your earth to go live via the water pipe, your RCD won't help
    but your earth bonding should shunt much of the current to your real earth. >> On TT your neighbour should have an RCD that trips.

    If the neighbour has a disconnected neutral, but there is a path to your >neutral via theirs and yours equipotential bonding, then their RCD may
    not see a fault since there will be a balance between live and what it
    is seeing as neutral.

    Would it not be safer to have an isolated section on the incoming
    water pipe?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Scott on Mon Dec 23 21:43:58 2024
    On 23/12/2024 17:00, Scott wrote:
    On Mon, 23 Dec 2024 16:16:14 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 23/12/2024 13:22, Theo wrote:
    Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's
    YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about
    followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find
    out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take >>>> anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230
    volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next
    door's wiring.

    Have a look at your incoming cable. If it has the earth wired to the sheath >>> of the cable that's TNS. If the earth goes into the neutral terminal that's >>> TNCS (or a PME sticker). If you have an outdoor earth rod that's TT.

    Note that an earth rod can also be added to a TN-C-S install - it just
    becomes another of the Multiple earths of PME.

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in
    current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage
    to earth would immediately trip the RCD. I think I'll stick with
    Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    Yes. Particularly required on TT where the earth impedance can be 200 ohms >>> - the fault current wouldn't trip an MCB but it would trip an RCD. If next >>> door causes your earth to go live via the water pipe, your RCD won't help >>> but your earth bonding should shunt much of the current to your real earth. >>> On TT your neighbour should have an RCD that trips.

    If the neighbour has a disconnected neutral, but there is a path to your
    neutral via theirs and yours equipotential bonding, then their RCD may
    not see a fault since there will be a balance between live and what it
    is seeing as neutral.

    Would it not be safer to have an isolated section on the incoming
    water pipe?

    Possibly, but were do you stop? Gas pipe, oil pipe, building metalwork,
    that TT earth on an outbuilding submain etc. It is difficult to make
    sure you catch all possible connections to an unintended earth.


    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From tony sayer@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 23 23:56:57 2024
    In article <armimj14ckhjpifq9rhf73c1jbdslv67le@4ax.com>, Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> scribeth thus
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's
    YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about
    followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find
    out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take >anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230
    volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next
    door's wiring.

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in
    current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage
    to earth would immediately trip the RCD. I think I'll stick with
    Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    Very simply an RCD looks at the current in on the Live wire and out on
    the neutral if there is an unbalance caused by the incoming live being
    diverted elsewhere then once its tripping rating is exceeded then out it
    goes and will disconnect Both lines so in effect your isolated.

    Unless you share the same earth rod or wire with someone else then that
    can be a bit iffy;!.

    Course on a more of less normal supply the earth and neutral are bonded
    at the substation ..


    --
    Tony Sayer


    Man is least himself when he talks in his own person.

    Give him a keyboard, and he will reveal himself.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From tony sayer@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 23 23:59:04 2024
    In article <vkc21n$199f6$2@dont-email.me>, John Rumm <see.my.signature@n owhere.null> scribeth thus
    On 23/12/2024 12:56, Scott wrote:
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's
    YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about
    followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find
    out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take
    anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230
    volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next
    door's wiring.

    Details of the types and how to tell which you have here:

    https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Earthing_Types

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in
    current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage
    to earth would immediately trip the RCD.

    Indeed...

    However (most) RCDs have no earth connection, so if it is the earth
    which is introducing a potential into your house, the RCD won't see it,
    and even if it tripped, it would not disconnect the earth.

    John.. Do any RCD's have an earth connection i thought it was only the
    very old e-RCD was it called?..



    (which is why we have equipotential bonding)

    I think I'll stick with
    Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    Bring me sunshine :-)


    --
    Tony Sayer


    Man is least himself when he talks in his own person.

    Give him a keyboard, and he will reveal himself.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Andrew Gabriel@21:1/5 to tony sayer on Tue Dec 24 00:53:04 2024
    On 23/12/2024 23:59, tony sayer wrote:
    John.. Do any RCD's have an earth connection i thought it was only the
    very old e-RCD was it called?..

    Yes, some do. They can use it to trip on live/neutral reversal and
    neutral disconnected. They can also use it to superimpose a low voltage
    on the neutral wire. I'm racking my brains to remember why, but it might
    have been to detect neutral/earth shorts even when no load is being
    drawn. It was a standard feature of one of the RCD ICs.

    --
    Andrew Gabriel

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Chris Green@21:1/5 to tony sayer on Tue Dec 24 08:54:36 2024
    tony sayer <tony@bancom.co.uk> wrote:
    However (most) RCDs have no earth connection, so if it is the earth
    which is introducing a potential into your house, the RCD won't see it,
    and even if it tripped, it would not disconnect the earth.

    John.. Do any RCD's have an earth connection i thought it was only the
    very old e-RCD was it called?..

    ELCB - Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker

    --
    Chris Green
    ·

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott@21:1/5 to see.my.signature@nowhere.null on Tue Dec 24 09:58:27 2024
    On Mon, 23 Dec 2024 21:43:58 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 23/12/2024 17:00, Scott wrote:
    On Mon, 23 Dec 2024 16:16:14 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 23/12/2024 13:22, Theo wrote:
    Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's >>>>> YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about
    followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find
    out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take >>>>> anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230
    volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next >>>>> door's wiring.

    Have a look at your incoming cable. If it has the earth wired to the sheath
    of the cable that's TNS. If the earth goes into the neutral terminal that's
    TNCS (or a PME sticker). If you have an outdoor earth rod that's TT.

    Note that an earth rod can also be added to a TN-C-S install - it just
    becomes another of the Multiple earths of PME.

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in >>>>> current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage >>>>> to earth would immediately trip the RCD. I think I'll stick with
    Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    Yes. Particularly required on TT where the earth impedance can be 200 ohms
    - the fault current wouldn't trip an MCB but it would trip an RCD. If next
    door causes your earth to go live via the water pipe, your RCD won't help >>>> but your earth bonding should shunt much of the current to your real earth.
    On TT your neighbour should have an RCD that trips.

    If the neighbour has a disconnected neutral, but there is a path to your >>> neutral via theirs and yours equipotential bonding, then their RCD may
    not see a fault since there will be a balance between live and what it
    is seeing as neutral.

    Would it not be safer to have an isolated section on the incoming
    water pipe?

    Possibly, but were do you stop? Gas pipe, oil pipe, building metalwork,
    that TT earth on an outbuilding submain etc. It is difficult to make
    sure you catch all possible connections to an unintended earth.

    I regret to say that in the seasonal spirit of Christmas I watched
    another 'JW' YouTube video last night and he actually said the best
    way to install a TT system for an existing property is to use a
    plastic water pipe. I think he also said that a plastic gas pipe can
    be used outdoors but not indoors.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to tony sayer on Tue Dec 24 10:20:22 2024
    On 23/12/2024 23:59, tony sayer wrote:
    In article <vkc21n$199f6$2@dont-email.me>, John Rumm <see.my.signature@n owhere.null> scribeth thus
    On 23/12/2024 12:56, Scott wrote:
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's
    YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about
    followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find
    out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take
    anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230
    volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next
    door's wiring.

    Details of the types and how to tell which you have here:

    https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Earthing_Types

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in
    current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage
    to earth would immediately trip the RCD.

    Indeed...

    However (most) RCDs have no earth connection, so if it is the earth
    which is introducing a potential into your house, the RCD won't see it,
    and even if it tripped, it would not disconnect the earth.

    John.. Do any RCD's have an earth connection i thought it was only the
    very old e-RCD was it called?..

    You quite often see it on some brands of RCBO for example:

    https://mksentrycircuitprotection.co.uk/product-item/residual-current-breakers-with-overcurrent-protection-rcbos/



    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Chris Green on Tue Dec 24 10:24:55 2024
    On 24/12/2024 08:54, Chris Green wrote:
    tony sayer <tony@bancom.co.uk> wrote:
    However (most) RCDs have no earth connection, so if it is the earth
    which is introducing a potential into your house, the RCD won't see it,
    and even if it tripped, it would not disconnect the earth.

    John.. Do any RCD's have an earth connection i thought it was only the
    very old e-RCD was it called?..

    ELCB - Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker

    Yup earth connection for those is the whole MO, a different approach to
    fault detection:

    https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/ELCB

    not to be confused with those current operated RCDs that also have earth
    for detecting things like polarity reversal and other fault conditions.

    (oddly, those makers that produce them, seem rather shy on promoting the benefits / features)

    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Scott on Tue Dec 24 10:15:28 2024
    On 24/12/2024 09:58, Scott wrote:
    On Mon, 23 Dec 2024 21:43:58 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 23/12/2024 17:00, Scott wrote:
    On Mon, 23 Dec 2024 16:16:14 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 23/12/2024 13:22, Theo wrote:
    Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's >>>>>> YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about >>>>>> followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S,
    TN-C-S and TT). I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find >>>>>> out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to take >>>>>> anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230 >>>>>> volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next >>>>>> door's wiring.

    Have a look at your incoming cable. If it has the earth wired to the sheath
    of the cable that's TNS. If the earth goes into the neutral terminal that's
    TNCS (or a PME sticker). If you have an outdoor earth rod that's TT.

    Note that an earth rod can also be added to a TN-C-S install - it just >>>> becomes another of the Multiple earths of PME.

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in >>>>>> current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage >>>>>> to earth would immediately trip the RCD. I think I'll stick with
    Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    Yes. Particularly required on TT where the earth impedance can be 200 ohms
    - the fault current wouldn't trip an MCB but it would trip an RCD. If next
    door causes your earth to go live via the water pipe, your RCD won't help >>>>> but your earth bonding should shunt much of the current to your real earth.
    On TT your neighbour should have an RCD that trips.

    If the neighbour has a disconnected neutral, but there is a path to your >>>> neutral via theirs and yours equipotential bonding, then their RCD may >>>> not see a fault since there will be a balance between live and what it >>>> is seeing as neutral.

    Would it not be safer to have an isolated section on the incoming
    water pipe?

    Possibly, but were do you stop? Gas pipe, oil pipe, building metalwork,
    that TT earth on an outbuilding submain etc. It is difficult to make
    sure you catch all possible connections to an unintended earth.

    I regret to say that in the seasonal spirit of Christmas I watched
    another 'JW' YouTube video last night and he actually said the best
    way to install a TT system for an existing property is to use a
    plastic water pipe. I think he also said that a plastic gas pipe can
    be used outdoors but not indoors.

    Yup plastic gas pipes outside are common in the distribution system, and
    often right up to a premises these days, but less so after the meter on
    the consumer side. Trackpipe (plastic coated corrugated steel) is quite
    common though.


    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Andrew@21:1/5 to John Rumm on Tue Dec 24 17:59:25 2024
    On 24/12/2024 10:15, John Rumm wrote:
    On 24/12/2024 09:58, Scott wrote:
    On Mon, 23 Dec 2024 21:43:58 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 23/12/2024 17:00, Scott wrote:
    On Mon, 23 Dec 2024 16:16:14 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 23/12/2024 13:22, Theo wrote:
    Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:
    As a distraction from all the Christmas stuff, I watched John Ward's >>>>>>> YouTube video on diverted neutral current last night. I just about >>>>>>> followed the explanation about the three earthing systems (TN-S, >>>>>>> TN-C-S and TT).  I am now wondering if there is an easy way to find >>>>>>> out which system I have, bearing in mind John's admonition not to >>>>>>> take
    anything apart. It is quite alarming to think I could encounter 230 >>>>>>> volts in my tap next time I take a shower because of a fault in next >>>>>>> door's wiring.

    Have a look at your incoming cable. If it has the earth wired to
    the sheath
    of the cable that's TNS. If the earth goes into the neutral
    terminal that's
    TNCS (or a PME sticker). If you have an outdoor earth rod that's TT. >>>>>
    Note that an earth rod can also be added to a TN-C-S install - it just >>>>> becomes another of the Multiple earths of PME.

    What about an RCD? I thought the RCD/RCBO measured any difference in >>>>>>> current between the 'brown' and the 'blue' and therefore any leakage >>>>>>> to earth would immediately trip the RCD. I think I'll stick with >>>>>>> Morcambe and Wise before bed next time!

    Yes.  Particularly required on TT where the earth impedance can be >>>>>> 200 ohms
    - the fault current wouldn't trip an MCB but it would trip an
    RCD.  If next
    door causes your earth to go live via the water pipe, your RCD
    won't help
    but your earth bonding should shunt much of the current to your
    real earth.
    On TT your neighbour should have an RCD that trips.

    If the neighbour has a disconnected neutral, but there is a path to
    your
    neutral via theirs and yours equipotential bonding, then their RCD may >>>>> not see a fault since there will be a balance between live and what it >>>>> is seeing as neutral.

    Would it not be safer to have an isolated section on the incoming
    water pipe?

    Possibly, but were do you stop? Gas pipe, oil pipe, building metalwork,
    that TT earth on an outbuilding submain etc. It is difficult to make
    sure you catch all possible connections to an unintended earth.

    I regret to say that in the seasonal spirit of Christmas I watched
    another 'JW' YouTube video last night and he actually said the best
    way to install a TT system for an existing property is to use a
    plastic water pipe. I think he also said that a plastic gas pipe can
    be used outdoors but not indoors.

    Yup plastic gas pipes outside are common in the distribution system, and often right up to a premises these days, but less so after the meter on
    the consumer side. Trackpipe (plastic coated corrugated steel) is quite common though.


    Up to the premises, but *never* inside the boundary of a building
    including uninhabited spaces like garages. At least that is the
    case with many of the semis where I live. These have a pair of
    semi-detached garages in between each pair of houses but separated
    from the houses by a metre wide path. The gas meter is in the garage
    and the yellow plastic terminates under the concrete apron in front
    of the up/over door and then a run of 3/4 inch iron pipe runs under
    the garage floor to the meter. Another run of 3/4 inch iron runs
    from the meter, under the path into the house entering adjacent to
    where the Baxi Bermuda back boiler was originally fitted.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to Andrew on Tue Dec 24 19:56:19 2024
    Andrew wrote:

    John Rumm wrote:

    plastic gas pipes outside are common in the distribution system,
    and often right up to a premises these days,

    Up to the premises, but *never* inside the boundary of a building
    including uninhabited spaces like garages.

    As built, my house was plastic from the main in the footpath, to
    "somewhere" in front of the house, then black iron rising in the
    cupboard under the stairs where the meter was.

    When Cadent replaced the main in the street they found the junction
    between plastic and iron was under the built-on porch, so they had to
    re-site the meter, coming up outside and in through the wall of the porch.

    Then the meter and along the skirting in the hall a couple of feet, back through the house wall into the garage along and then through the wall
    again to under the stairs and rejoin my pipe that used to be on the
    output side of the meter.

    So externally it looks pretty clean, an 18" stub of white pipe up to a
    plastic elbow (concealing a stopcock) and out of sight, I need to build
    some sort of cupboard round the meter.

    Not as bad as next doors, who have converted their garage, so it had to
    go up, over the porch, along the flat roof, along the whole length of
    the former garage, round to the back of the house ... looks awful!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Harry Bloomfield Esq@21:1/5 to Scott on Wed Dec 25 11:29:01 2024
    On 24/12/2024 09:58, Scott wrote:
    I think he also said that a plastic gas pipe can
    be used outdoors but not indoors.

    Gas regulations! Plastic buried underground, is much less likely to be
    melted by the heat from a fire, and less of an issue, even it it did. A
    plastic gas pipe subjected to heat in a building, would be much more
    serious.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From me9@21:1/5 to Harry Bloomfield Esq on Wed Jan 1 01:47:04 2025
    Harry Bloomfield Esq <harry.m1byt@outlook.com> wrote:

    On 24/12/2024 09:58, Scott wrote:
    I think he also said that a plastic gas pipe can be used outdoors but
    not indoors.

    Gas regulations! Plastic buried underground, is much less likely to be
    melted by the heat from a fire, and less of an issue, even it it did. A plastic gas pipe subjected to heat in a building, would be much more
    serious.

    My house was built in the 70s, water pipe is plastic. Gas pipe appears as plastic coated steel. I have a substantial earthing system connected from my amateur radio aerials (10mm^2 and at least 10 earth roda and many buried wires). I'd like to convert to a TT system, but if I disconnect my supplied earth and check the earth loop impedence to my system it is about 6 ohms. Is this likely to be the earth bonding to the gas pipe (Unable to disconnect easily due multiple paths through boiler etc) to the earth next door. If so
    can I get teh gas people to fit an isolating section in the pipe?

    --
    braind

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Theo@21:1/5 to me9@privacy.net on Wed Jan 1 11:25:06 2025
    me9 <me9@privacy.net> wrote:
    Harry Bloomfield Esq <harry.m1byt@outlook.com> wrote:

    On 24/12/2024 09:58, Scott wrote:
    I think he also said that a plastic gas pipe can be used outdoors but
    not indoors.

    Gas regulations! Plastic buried underground, is much less likely to be melted by the heat from a fire, and less of an issue, even it it did. A plastic gas pipe subjected to heat in a building, would be much more serious.

    My house was built in the 70s, water pipe is plastic. Gas pipe appears as plastic coated steel. I have a substantial earthing system connected from my amateur radio aerials (10mm^2 and at least 10 earth roda and many buried wires). I'd like to convert to a TT system, but if I disconnect my supplied earth and check the earth loop impedence to my system it is about 6 ohms. Is this likely to be the earth bonding to the gas pipe (Unable to disconnect easily due multiple paths through boiler etc) to the earth next door. If so can I get teh gas people to fit an isolating section in the pipe?

    I doubt you could get an insulating section of pipe installed before the
    meter without splashing the cash at your gas network operator, but could you get a gas fitter to install an insulating piece of pipe straight after your meter? Then your earth bond would go to the pipework system after the insulated piece (before the first tee) and be at the potential of your earth rods rather than any potential current flowing from next door.

    (I'm not sure how the DNO/electricians would view conversion to TT - worth asking around. At the very least you'd need RCDs on everything)

    Theo

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)